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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Ryu
May 13, 2013

Anyone got info on snow/ice condition on Dreamweaver, Martha, or anything else? Thanks!


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By claramie
From Boulder, CO
May 15, 2013
Should I be trying this hard on a warmup? <br /> <br />photo by Rob Kepley

Attempted Hallett's Chimney yesterday (May 14). Had to bail on the chockstone pitch. Since it hasn't been refreezing at night in the park for the last 3 nights, everything is melting out big time. Sloggy approaches over snow if there isn't a boot-packed trail and water coursing down everywhere. Loose wet avalanches possible on snow slopes over 30 degrees, especially after it warms up during the day. Be safe out there and hope that it gets colder again quickly!


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By ScottC
May 15, 2013

Appreciate that report. Watching the weather over the past week, that's kind of what I expected. Depending on the temps and cloudcover, I might try martha's very early sunday, but I guess we'll see...

If anybody else gets up there, any additional beta is sure appreciated - it's a long drive up there for me! [NM]

Thanks


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
May 17, 2013
another day in RMNP

Did Martha this past Wednesday. Decent snow and ice in the couloir proper. Get on it early before the sun hits. There was a lot of water streaming, but the ice on both steps was solid. Exiting the couloir to the summit was a slog, as the sun had softened the snow considerably.

Martha, 5/15.
Martha, 5/15.


First step.
First step.


First step.
First step.


Second step.
Second step.


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By Brad6260
From Kentucky
May 17, 2013

If anybody else gets up there, any additional beta is sure appreciated - it's a long drive up there for me!

Ditto that for sure!


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By Ryu
May 20, 2013

Did Martha on 5/18. Conditions are ok, like others have said, get on it early. Talked to two people who climbed Dreamweaver and they said conditions were good.


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By JonW
May 20, 2013

Ryu wrote:
Did Martha on 5/18. Conditions are ok, like others have said, get on it early. Talked to two people who climbed Dreamweaver and they said conditions were good.


I was probably one of the two you talked to on Saturday.

The snow on Dreamweaver was quite good and much better than expected on Saturday. A couple of the steps had ice with the second to last having the most. Currently, no need for ice screws though.


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By JonW
May 22, 2013

Anyone have first-hand or second-hand accounts or even a wild-ass guess on the conditions of the Hourglass Couloir? What about any other RMNP or Front Range couloirs in the M3-M4 range?

Thanks.


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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
May 22, 2013
Imaginate

JonW wrote:
Anyone have first-hand or second-hand accounts or even a wild-ass guess on the conditions of the Hourglass Couloir? What about any other RMNP or Front Range couloirs in the M3-M4 range? Thanks.


Snow climbing conditions were very good when I was in the Long's Cirque on Sunday. Dreamweaver looked very good, so presumably similar couloirs had nice conditions as well.


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By Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
May 23, 2013

Nodin, David (anyone else), is Chasm Lake still frozen? I know it usually is but it's been so warm and sunny...


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
May 23, 2013
another day in RMNP

Yep, it is still frozen but a bit slushy


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
May 23, 2013
another day in RMNP

I just got back from skiing mt Toll, and things are really nice and consolidated up there. The road is still closed at the lower gate, but it is plowed up to the upper gate.


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
May 23, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

anybody been into Sneffels north side recently? looking for east dallas creek road conditions. looking at Snake couloir or NW Butt climb for the weekend.


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By AaronPugmire
May 25, 2013

We did Martha today it is in good condition. There is alot of melt water in the lower section but as of today it was easy to navigate around. But I don't think it is going to last long. If you want it go get it!!

Dreamweaver looked in.
The Flying Dutchman looked in.
The Notch was in.


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By ScottC
May 26, 2013

Nick Venechuk wrote:
Nodin, David (anyone else), is Chasm Lake still frozen? I know it usually is but it's been so warm and sunny...

I went in up to my knee last w/e on the edge of Chasm Lake - I'd be very careful!


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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
May 27, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.

Climbed Dreamweaver and Martha's Couloir today. Martha's was running water at the bottom, thin and poorly bonded in the middle, and good near the top. The snow everywhere in that cirque is bomber until about noon depending on the aspect.

Dreamweaver was in really nice condition with ice on all the steps. Went down Lambslide to do Flying D. but it was after one and the wet slide at the bottom (and my aching feet)suggested I call it a day. The guys I met before I went down Lambslide said it was a little thin and that they took a variation to the left.

I walked around the south side of Chasm Lake along with several other people. That's not going to last long. Think carefully before doing so because things are mush in the afternoon.

I can post pictures when I get home on Tuesday if that's helpful but by then things will of changed.


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By Jim Matt
From Indianapolis, IN
May 30, 2013
Jim at the Boneyard TRing a route

Hoping to get on Dreamweaver this weekend...any need for snowshoes for the approach?


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By Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
May 30, 2013

Jim Matt wrote:
Hoping to get on Dreamweaver this weekend...any need for snowshoes for the approach?


No need for flotation but microspikes might be nice, especially in the morning before the snow softens up. The upper half of the trees and portions of the tundra are pretty snow-covered still.


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By Jim Matt
From Indianapolis, IN
May 30, 2013
Jim at the Boneyard TRing a route

Thanks Nick, I was bringing along regular crampons for the route, but may bring my microspikes as well.


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By AaronPugmire
Jun 5, 2013

any one know anything about conditions on the notch?


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Jun 5, 2013
another day in RMNP

I did dreamweaver yesterday, snice throughout and great ice on every step. Notch looked prime, and there appeared to be tracks on it. Actually planning to do it next Friday. I'd say get after it, but start early before it softens.


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Jun 5, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

Did the Notch on Sunday and it was stellar, perfect conditions. Finished on the staircase which was super fun with a little bit of mixed conditions.


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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Jun 6, 2013
Mt. Churchill, University Range

Mt. Evans skiing and mixed climbing are in good shape, even nice temps for rock climbing at the Lincoln Lake Slabs. The routes Snork Maiden, Mini Micro, and Iration are all in good shape.


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By Brian Locke
From Denver, CO
Jun 7, 2013

Climbed Dreamweaver today.. conditions were great. Snow/ice all the way to the top, which should last at least through the weekend. Microspikes would have been nice, but definitely not required.

Unfortunately, one of my BD vipers got lost b/w the summit and the loft while bailing ahead of a storm front. If anyone finds it, I'd be stoked to reimburse you to get it back!


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By Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Jun 8, 2013
Stairway to Heaven

The Hourglass Couloir on Arrowhead is melting fast. We managed to get up pitch 1 although there was running water at the first chockstone (my partner Steve did the leading). It might have been possible to climb further but we bailed because of icefall from above. Another party was starting the climb as we hiked out; don't know how they fared.


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