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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Tom-o Sapien
Apr 16, 2013
Conky and I confront Patrick Swayze





Nice pic's Phil !
Do you ever get to climb the (unmentionable) vertically suspended H20 molecules existing at a temperature well below 0 degrees celcius on the other side of the nameless hump west of our fair burgh? That beautiful, remote location that no one is ever allowed to mention (like Fight Club)? Not to mention that I most certainainly will deny having ever mentioned anything about these (rumored) vertically suspended H20 molecules existing at a temperature well below 0 degrees celcius within this forum?
I ascended a column of these (fairytailed) vertically suspended H20 molecules existing at a temperature well below 0 degrees celcius many years ago (with no photographic evidence), and would greatly desire a returm visit to this magical place even though we all know (wink, wink) that it doesn't exist!


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By phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Apr 17, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.

Tom, I haven't climbed that one since last fall, so Im not sure if it's in or not. Unfortunately, the cat has been out of the bag on their existence for awhile now...


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By Tom-o Sapien
Apr 17, 2013
Conky and I confront Patrick Swayze

Thanks Phil,
Wasn't sure if anyone would interpret that babble as code, or the rantings of a lunatic! I could not get what I wanted to say out of your "quote box" no matter how hard I tried.
Search Gillett falls on this site and every post is pretty dated.
I climbed there once in '96(?) with my good friend Wayne-o. We parked down at the "flats" and snowshoed up the slopes along the floodpath. We drove all the way from Pueblo and we only had time for one pitch of ice with the long walk out. We bailed in haste and I vowed to come back and overnight to tick as many lines as I could.
I tried to return there later in about '99 with my wife and dogs, We wanted to shoe in and out just to check conditions and were following Cameron Burns' suggested access to the trailhead. Diane and I thought the pullout by the gate was way too small for parking and decided to leave.
Just then a small red car came up the hill and parked in the middle of the road so we couldn't get out. An older man got out of the car and approached us on foot, not looking too happy!
He told us we were trespassing and asked us what we were doing there. I said we were going to shoe in to see the ice, thought it best not to park here and that we're leaving as soon as he gets his car out of the way.
He then looked us over and said "You been readin that BOOK!" Then, as he turned to walk back to his car I noticed his gun tucked in the back of his belt! I was so pissed I wanted to run him down but decided to remain calm.
Turns out this nutjob resided in the last house on the last parcel of land just before the road climbs to the gate of the Timberline Fishing Club.
About 2 weeks later I was soloing at Silver Cascade falls and ran into a younger fellow who said he too had a run in with this man.
He and a buddy had skinned in from the "flats" and on their way out this old man jumps out from behind a boulder with his weapon drawn!
He tells them they are trespassing and to get the hell out of there.
When they finally get back to his truck that they left parked by the road all 4 tires had been slashed!
I tried sending an email to the TFC this year requesting permission for access, but never got a reply.
I was wondering if with the new Ring the Peak trail system there might be a way in that would avoid this issue, but it doesn't appear that option is viable.
I read somewhere it might be possible to ski in from Devils Playground, but this seems to be a logistical nightmare for an overnighter.
Any info would be greatly appreciated and thanks for letting me rant MP!
Regards,
Tom-o


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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2013
Approach to Whitney

Has anyone been to Hidden Falls or Loch Vale in the past few days? Thinking of checking it out on Monday; hoping that there's some ice with all of this moisture and recent storms.


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Apr 19, 2013
another day in RMNP

Hidden Falls, 4/18/13.
Hidden Falls, 4/18/13.


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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2013
Approach to Whitney

Thanks for the pic...how's the approach? I heard the snow was pretty deep. Worth the trip in?


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Apr 19, 2013
another day in RMNP

Gate is closed at the Sandbeach TR. We skinned in, but our track was stomped by snowshoers up to the Finch Lake TR. Well worth it. The upper section is quite steep, but everything is really solid. A blast of a day! Get after it!


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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Apr 19, 2013
Approach to Whitney

Awesome! Thanks for the beta. I've never been there before, so this is great; I'll definitely check it out--hope there's still some left on Monday


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By stephan-wilson
Apr 26, 2013

Has anyone been up to Lincoln ice falls recently? I was wondering it there is any ice left?

Thanks!


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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Apr 26, 2013

Lincoln stays in pretty late, I've climbed it in May. However, this year it is probably buried in snow form all the late season dumps.


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By Tom-o Sapien
Apr 26, 2013
Conky and I confront Patrick Swayze

Heading up there tomorrow at 6 a.m. in a group of four. Anyone welcome if you want a TR or belay.
Send me a p.m.


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By Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Apr 26, 2013
Approach to Whitney

Instead of Hidden Falls, I went to Lincoln Falls this past Monday. Awesome day!

Lincoln Falls.
Lincoln Falls.


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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 27, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.

Anyone know what trail conditions and ice is like up to Black Lake?


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Apr 27, 2013
another day in RMNP

jmeizis wrote:
Anyone know what trail conditions and ice is like up to Black Lake?


Was up there last Sunday. Plan was to link West Gully with Big Mac, but deep snow slogging got the better of us. Trail was well packed and skiable, though I wish that I had had snowshoes for before/after the climb. Ice was good with some mixed at the step.

big mac and hourglass are looking good as well. The slabs were mostly covered.


West Gully, 4/21.
West Gully, 4/21.


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Apr 27, 2013
another day in RMNP

Planning on heading up to Martha next Saturday after the end-of-semester-paper-writing frenzy is over. Anybody been up to Chasm recently?


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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Apr 27, 2013

Anfarwal wrote:
Instead of Hidden Falls, I went to Lincoln Falls this past Monday. Awesome day!


Nice to see blue ice this time of year... Definitely pretty buried though.


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By Tom-o Sapien
Apr 27, 2013
Conky and I confront Patrick Swayze

Beautiful, sunny day in the hills this morning!
Deep wet snow blanketing entire Lincoln amphitheater!!
Serious snow balling even with anti-botts.
A lot of slide activity below the big cliffs to the north of the falls.
With so much deep wet snow on the right side of the falls we opted to rap off the trees rather than trigger a slide.
I left my fairly new ACR with an Omega Pacific aluminum rap ring as BOOTY for the lucky finder!

Lincoln Falls 1.
Lincoln Falls 1.


Lincoln Falls 2.
Lincoln Falls 2.


Steve Duff atop 1st pitch of scottish gully. Observe slide zones above the band of trees!
Steve Duff atop 1st pitch of scottish gully. Observe slide zones above the band of trees!


Alpine Cock Booty.
Alpine Cock Booty.

We met another party of friendly climbers, Mike from COS, and Cliff from Monument.

Cliff placing pro on upper tier.
Cliff placing pro on upper tier.


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By Colin Simon
From Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2013
Just below Thunderbolt Peak

windupbird wrote:
Was up there last Sunday. Plan was to link West Gully with Big Mac, but deep snow slogging got the better of us. Trail was well packed and skiable, though I wish that I had had snowshoes for before/after the climb. Ice was good with some mixed at the step. big mac and hourglass are looking good as well. The slabs were mostly covered.


I did Martha on Friday. There was a lot of fun neve/snice. There is an abnormally high amount of snow up there - I would bring snowshoes for the approach and descent. The first crux, through the chimney, is entirely filled in with snow and you walk ten feet above it. I imagine the route will be getting more and more fun over the coming week. Start early before the snice turns slushy and annoying!

Big Mac looked good? Do you have any pictures?

Also, how did you see Hourglass if you were on the south side of Arrowhead? Did you go up to Solitude Lake? Or are you possibly referring to Deborah on the south side of Arrowhead?


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Apr 28, 2013
another day in RMNP

Thanks for the info Colin. Planning to head up Sunday and definitely bringing skis.

Colin Simon wrote:
Big Mac looked good? Do you have any pictures? Also, how did you see Hourglass if you were on the south side of Arrowhead? Did you go up to Solitude Lake? Or are you possibly referring to Deborah on the south side of Arrowhead?


Planning to do Big Mac on either the 8th or 9th, hopefully.
McHenry's, 4/21.
McHenry's, 4/21.


Hourglass condition was second-hand info from a guy on the trail. Deborah did not appear to be in at all.


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By Shameless Shaemus
May 2, 2013

Bouldered the short flows at Vail's Golf Club (19th or 9th hole falls etc.) The winter that wouldn't end...ice climbing in May for the sheer novelty of it...climber's left on the Firehouse still looks decent and someone was up there as well. By June the Fang will be touching down.


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By Chris Gibbs
From Denver, CO
May 7, 2013
Monastery

It's not over yet...


Total Abandon. <br />May 5, 2013.
Total Abandon.
May 5, 2013.


Don't mind the huge block of snow in the middle, it just makes things more...interesting.


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By GLD
May 7, 2013

Lincoln falls Sunday May 5 was good. Still lots of snow on the lower angle stuff and some areas of crap ice, but there was great ice underneath!!!


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By Ryu
May 9, 2013

Does anyone know condition of Dreamweaver for this or next weekend? Thanks!


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By ScottC
May 9, 2013

Or Martha's, Dutchman? Is there enough snow to ski up there?
Thanks!


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
May 10, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

ScottC wrote:
Or Martha's, Dutchman? Is there enough snow to ski up there? Thanks!


Also interested in info on Martha or updates with all this new snow? Anyone, Bueller?


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