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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Apr 19, 2013
another day in RMNP
Hidden Falls, 4/18/13.
Hidden Falls, 4/18/13.
Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points
Apr 19, 2013
Approach to Whitney
Thanks for the pic...how's the approach? I heard the snow was pretty deep. Worth the trip in? Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Joined Mar 25, 2012
124 points
Apr 19, 2013
another day in RMNP
Gate is closed at the Sandbeach TR. We skinned in, but our track was stomped by snowshoers up to the Finch Lake TR. Well worth it. The upper section is quite steep, but everything is really solid. A blast of a day! Get after it! Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points
Apr 19, 2013
Approach to Whitney
Awesome! Thanks for the beta. I've never been there before, so this is great; I'll definitely check it out--hope there's still some left on Monday Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Joined Mar 25, 2012
124 points
Apr 26, 2013
Has anyone been up to Lincoln ice falls recently? I was wondering it there is any ice left?

Thanks!
stephan-wilson
Joined Mar 3, 2013
0 points
Apr 26, 2013
Lincoln stays in pretty late, I've climbed it in May. However, this year it is probably buried in snow form all the late season dumps. Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Apr 26, 2013
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
Heading up there tomorrow at 6 a.m. in a group of four. Anyone welcome if you want a TR or belay.
Send me a p.m.
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
800 points
Apr 26, 2013
Approach to Whitney
Instead of Hidden Falls, I went to Lincoln Falls this past Monday. Awesome day!
Lincoln Falls.
Lincoln Falls.
Anfarwal
From Denver, CO
Joined Mar 25, 2012
124 points
Apr 27, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
Anyone know what trail conditions and ice is like up to Black Lake? jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2008
250 points
Apr 27, 2013
another day in RMNP
jmeizis wrote:
Anyone know what trail conditions and ice is like up to Black Lake?


Was up there last Sunday. Plan was to link West Gully with Big Mac, but deep snow slogging got the better of us. Trail was well packed and skiable, though I wish that I had had snowshoes for before/after the climb. Ice was good with some mixed at the step.

big mac and hourglass are looking good as well. The slabs were mostly covered.


West Gully, 4/21.
West Gully, 4/21.
Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points
Apr 27, 2013
another day in RMNP
Planning on heading up to Martha next Saturday after the end-of-semester-paper-writing frenzy is over. Anybody been up to Chasm recently? Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points
Apr 27, 2013
Anfarwal wrote:
Instead of Hidden Falls, I went to Lincoln Falls this past Monday. Awesome day!


Nice to see blue ice this time of year... Definitely pretty buried though.
Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Apr 27, 2013
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
Beautiful, sunny day in the hills this morning!
Deep wet snow blanketing entire Lincoln amphitheater!!
Serious snow balling even with anti-botts.
A lot of slide activity below the big cliffs to the north of the falls.
With so much deep wet snow on the right side of the falls we opted to rap off the trees rather than trigger a slide.
I left my fairly new ACR with an Omega Pacific aluminum rap ring as BOOTY for the lucky finder!
Lincoln Falls 1.
Lincoln Falls 1.


Lincoln Falls 2.
Lincoln Falls 2.


Steve Duff atop 1st pitch of scottish gully. Obser...
Steve Duff atop 1st pitch of scottish gully. Observe slide zones above the band of trees!


Alpine Cock Booty.
Alpine Cock Booty.

We met another party of friendly climbers, Mike from COS, and Cliff from Monument.

Cliff placing pro on upper tier.
Cliff placing pro on upper tier.
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
800 points
Apr 28, 2013
Just below Thunderbolt Peak
windupbird wrote:
Was up there last Sunday. Plan was to link West Gully with Big Mac, but deep snow slogging got the better of us. Trail was well packed and skiable, though I wish that I had had snowshoes for before/after the climb. Ice was good with some mixed at the step. big mac and hourglass are looking good as well. The slabs were mostly covered.


I did Martha on Friday. There was a lot of fun neve/snice. There is an abnormally high amount of snow up there - I would bring snowshoes for the approach and descent. The first crux, through the chimney, is entirely filled in with snow and you walk ten feet above it. I imagine the route will be getting more and more fun over the coming week. Start early before the snice turns slushy and annoying!

Big Mac looked good? Do you have any pictures?

Also, how did you see Hourglass if you were on the south side of Arrowhead? Did you go up to Solitude Lake? Or are you possibly referring to Deborah on the south side of Arrowhead?
Colin Simon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 30, 2009
441 points
Apr 28, 2013
another day in RMNP
Thanks for the info Colin. Planning to head up Sunday and definitely bringing skis.

Colin Simon wrote:
Big Mac looked good? Do you have any pictures? Also, how did you see Hourglass if you were on the south side of Arrowhead? Did you go up to Solitude Lake? Or are you possibly referring to Deborah on the south side of Arrowhead?


Planning to do Big Mac on either the 8th or 9th, hopefully.
McHenry's, 4/21.
McHenry's, 4/21.


Hourglass condition was second-hand info from a guy on the trail. Deborah did not appear to be in at all.
Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points
May 2, 2013
Bouldered the short flows at Vail's Golf Club (19th or 9th hole falls etc.) The winter that wouldn't end...ice climbing in May for the sheer novelty of it...climber's left on the Firehouse still looks decent and someone was up there as well. By June the Fang will be touching down. Shameless Shaemus
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Joined Jun 3, 2009
78 points
May 7, 2013
Monastery
It's not over yet...


Total Abandon. May 5, 2013.
Total Abandon.
May 5, 2013.


Don't mind the huge block of snow in the middle, it just makes things more...interesting.
Chris Gibbs
From Denver, CO
Joined Feb 13, 2011
56 points
May 7, 2013
Lincoln falls Sunday May 5 was good. Still lots of snow on the lower angle stuff and some areas of crap ice, but there was great ice underneath!!! GLD
Joined Jan 19, 2012
97 points
May 9, 2013
Does anyone know condition of Dreamweaver for this or next weekend? Thanks! Ryu
Joined Sep 7, 2010
76 points
May 9, 2013
Or Martha's, Dutchman? Is there enough snow to ski up there?
Thanks!
ScottC
Joined Dec 28, 2007
10 points
May 10, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
ScottC wrote:
Or Martha's, Dutchman? Is there enough snow to ski up there? Thanks!


Also interested in info on Martha or updates with all this new snow? Anyone, Bueller?
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
May 13, 2013
Anyone got info on snow/ice condition on Dreamweaver, Martha, or anything else? Thanks! Ryu
Joined Sep 7, 2010
76 points
May 15, 2013
Should I be trying this hard on a warmup?  photo b...
Attempted Hallett's Chimney yesterday (May 14). Had to bail on the chockstone pitch. Since it hasn't been refreezing at night in the park for the last 3 nights, everything is melting out big time. Sloggy approaches over snow if there isn't a boot-packed trail and water coursing down everywhere. Loose wet avalanches possible on snow slopes over 30 degrees, especially after it warms up during the day. Be safe out there and hope that it gets colder again quickly! claramie
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 7, 2006
1,446 points
May 15, 2013
Appreciate that report. Watching the weather over the past week, that's kind of what I expected. Depending on the temps and cloudcover, I might try martha's very early sunday, but I guess we'll see...

If anybody else gets up there, any additional beta is sure appreciated - it's a long drive up there for me! [NM]

Thanks
ScottC
Joined Dec 28, 2007
10 points
May 17, 2013
another day in RMNP
Did Martha this past Wednesday. Decent snow and ice in the couloir proper. Get on it early before the sun hits. There was a lot of water streaming, but the ice on both steps was solid. Exiting the couloir to the summit was a slog, as the sun had softened the snow considerably.

Martha, 5/15.
Martha, 5/15.


First step.
First step.


First step.
First step.


Second step.
Second step.
Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points


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