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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Apr 2, 2013

No skis or flotation needed to the junction or Chasm Lake, the trail's pretty well packed or wind scoured.


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By Oliver Deshler
Apr 2, 2013

More Canadian Rockies photos.

county5.blogspot.com/2013/04/the-unicorn.html


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Apr 2, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Awesome shots, Oliver!!!!!


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By michael voth
Apr 3, 2013
2nd pitch of Womb.

anyone seen dreamweaver?


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By GLD
Apr 5, 2013

Nick Venechuk wrote:
No skis or flotation needed to the junction or Chasm Lake, the trail's pretty well packed or wind scoured.



Let me ask a different way, could I ski all the way up there? I love ski approaches since it is so damn fast exiting the area. Thanks for the info so far!


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By Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Apr 6, 2013
me on my redpoint

michael voth wrote:
anyone seen dreamweaver?


Anyone been up there yet?


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By Buff Johnson
Apr 6, 2013
smiley face

If anyone can get after it, Officers looks in great shape and the avy danger went to Low/Level1 (granted, i didn't get up into the monster, so re-assess as needed).


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By JonW
Apr 6, 2013

Dave Cummings wrote:
Anyone been up there yet?


Saw it today on our way to Martha. I don't have pictures but Dreamweaver looked very dry in several spots. I didn't see any ice. In my opinion, it's not in.

Martha, on the other hand, climbed well with a very little bit of ice. However, it appeared that conditions on Martha could improve further in the coming days.


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By Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Apr 7, 2013
me on my redpoint

Thanks for the update


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By GLD
Apr 7, 2013

JonW wrote:
Saw it today on our way to Martha. I don't have pictures but Dreamweaver looked very dry in several spots. I didn't see any ice. In my opinion, it's not in. Martha, on the other hand, climbed well with a very little bit of ice. However, it appeared that conditions on Martha could improve further in the coming days.


You must have been the group in front of us on Martha on Saturday. There was a group that did Dreamweaver (don't know results) and another group that sailed up flying dutchman.

My partner exiting the crux dropped a 0.5 BD C4 with blue Camp Nano racking biner and a BD quickdraw. It bounced and then slid out of sight, way past a lower. If it's found I will pay beer (I homebrew).


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By Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Apr 8, 2013

GLD wrote:
Let me ask a different way, could I ski all the way up there? I love ski approaches since it is so damn fast exiting the area. Thanks for the info so far!


Yep you can definitely skin all the way up and ski down. You might run into some rocks on the trail above treeline but should be able to avoid them.


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By JohnnyG
Apr 8, 2013

Hey Oliver- I really liked reading your blog posts on Polar circus and the Unicorn. Cool stuff
-J


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By AaronPugmire
Apr 10, 2013

Does any one know if there is any ice still in in the officers gulch area? Or anywhere else?


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By chris berdoulay
Apr 10, 2013

Tony's Nightmare climbed well today, Three Tiers is still in as well.


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By Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Apr 11, 2013
Laps in Ouray

Officers Gulch had ice as of sunday, although I doubt the approach is safe. Did Firehouse in Vail on sunday-- wet, but plenty of ice there.


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By Kevin Hart
From Conifer, CO
Apr 11, 2013

GLD wrote:
You must have been the group in front of us on Martha on Saturday. There was a group that did Dreamweaver (don't know results) and another group that sailed up flying dutchman. My partner exiting the crux dropped a 0.5 BD C4 with blue Camp Nano racking biner and a BD quickdraw. It bounced and then slid out of sight, way past a lower. If it's found I will pay beer (I homebrew).



Might have been us on Dutchman.

It's a tedious snow slog with knee->thigh deep snow most of the way and being generous maybe 25' of WI2+.

We'd also agree on Dreamweaver, it was looking very dry and no visible ice on the way in.


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Apr 14, 2013
another day in RMNP

Did dreamweaver today. No ice yet, but good snow and solid rock


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By Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Apr 15, 2013

windupbird wrote:
Did dreamweaver today. No ice yet, but good snow and solid rock


Saw you on the trail Saturday, that wind ever let up?


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Apr 15, 2013
another day in RMNP

Nick Venechuk wrote:
Saw you on the trail Saturday, that wind ever let up?


Very slow going to chasm, but the couloir was pretty well protected with only minimal spindrift. Descending meeker via the ramp was interesting as the front moved in and wind increased. Really good climb though!


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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Apr 15, 2013

How does the rest of the ice look up there? Worth a good hike?


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By Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Apr 15, 2013
another day in RMNP

Columbine is almost completely buried in snow. The flow left of columbine isn't much better. As other folks have stated, Martha still looks good, though I can't comment on ice. I'm curious about darkstar, though I think, like dreamweaver, it'll be dry. The notch and eighth route look pretty good as soon as the snow consolidates a bit.

Here's a shot of Martha and the diamond as of Saturday, though things have obviously changed at bit:

Diamond 4/13
Diamond 4/13


Martha 4/13.
Martha 4/13.


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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Apr 15, 2013

Anything on Mt. Lady???


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By michael voth
Apr 15, 2013
2nd pitch of Womb.

has anyone been back to hidden falls recently?


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By Marco GJ
Apr 16, 2013

Has anyone been up to Eureka lately? Or know if Birdbrain came in this spring? Thanks


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By phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Apr 16, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.

Pikes Peak Ice:

pikespeakalpineschool.com/blog/2013/04/pikes-peak-ice-condit>>>


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