By Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Mar 18, 2013
| Nina GJ wrote: Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road or gone to Eureka?
Climbed Highway 66 on Saturday. It was big & fat, no harder than grade 4, maybe only 3+. The approach gully had slid in the heat a day or two earlier; it was nicely consolidated on Saturday, but it could slide again if it's a warm day.
We saw a couple of people on Stairway; the first pitch looked like it was almost down to bare rock at the top, but otherwise it looked good.
It looked like the first pitch of Whorehouse had plenty of ice, but we didn't get a close look. | 
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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Mar 18, 2013
| Andy Hansen wrote: I was on Long's yesterday (3/14) and Dreamweaver had seemingly no ice in at the crux. But it's starting to fill in with snow. Martha looked better than it did last month when I climbed it. I'd imagine there's some ice in it now. Would be worth it to go up there if you're psyched on Martha. I climbed it in lean conditions which would likely not be encountered around now. The Flying Dutchman was decent snow to a pretty fat ice crux. The ice took 13cm & 17cm screws. Pretty good day out.
Kind of curious on Dutchman. Did you need slow shoes for the approach? I know the trail below treeline is pretty packed in the winter, but I've regretted not bringing them above treeline sometimes and loathed bringing them others.
Thanks!
PS I'm definitely waiting this week and next week out as, according to the forecast, winds might whip up some -70 windchill values. Also, some snow is in the forecast, and a few good friends of mine have descended the Loft in a white-out and apparently it was no fun at all. |
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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Mar 18, 2013
| I did not bring any floatation when I went up to TFD. I didn't think they were necessary. |
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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Mar 18, 2013
| Andy Hansen wrote: I did not bring any floatation when I went up to TFD. I didn't think they were necessary.
Nice! Thanks, Andy! Hopefully the wind this week scours most of the incoming snow off of the approach. I know I'll regret the decision to bring or not bring them either way. It's just how it goes. Hah! |
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By Medslim
From Urbana
Mar 18, 2013
| Hi guys,
any informations about ice climbing by estes park.
like west gully by balck lake or hidden falls.
Any other suggestion about ice to hit in this area or by vail it is welcome.
Thanks |
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By Ari Allen
From Fort Collins, CO
Mar 19, 2013
| Anyone been up to Lincoln Falls this week? Looking at Scottish Gulley. |
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By GLD
Mar 19, 2013
| Ari Allen wrote: Anyone been up to Lincoln Falls this week? Looking at Scottish Gulley.
I was up there Saturday and the Gulley was looking awesome! We reverse climbed it (TR each pitch down) and 2 guys lead it before we reversed it.
I want to go back for the lead! |
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By mthomas
From englewood, co
Mar 19, 2013
| Grace falls is fat on the left side. Thin and chandeliered in the middle. My bet is it will only get fatter in the month of april. |
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By Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Mar 19, 2013
| Martin le Roux wrote: Climbed Highway 66 on Saturday. It was big & fat, no harder than grade 4, maybe only 3+. The approach gully had slid in the heat a day or two earlier; it was nicely consolidated on Saturday, but it could slide again if it's a warm day. We saw a couple of people on Stairway; the first pitch looked like it was almost down to bare rock at the top, but otherwise it looked good. It looked like the first pitch of Whorehouse had plenty of ice, but we didn't get a close look.
Thanks very much Martin! Did Highway 66 today. Agree with the rating. Worthwhile going. |
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By ice-rock365
Mar 22, 2013
| Nina GJ wrote: Thanks very much Martin! Did Highway 66 today. Agree with the rating. Worthwhile going.
+1, very nice! |
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By Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Mar 22, 2013
| Well, I guess I owe everyone an apology. I just heard from someone who's quite upset that I posted information on the internet about Highway 66. He'd prefer it if we all kept quiet about ice conditions in Western Colorado. (Has anyone else got a message like this? Poor guy, he must have his work cut out). Obviously I'm terribly sorry about this, so I'd like to explain that Highway 66 is actually in really bad shape. It's thin, brittle, chandeliered, running with water and generally rotten, and the avvy bowl up high is about to let loose any moment now. And your pack will be destroyed by ravenous marmots that have worken up early from hibernation. So everyone, please stay away. I hope this clarifies things. |
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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Mar 23, 2013
| Martin le Roux wrote: Well, I guess I owe everyone an apology. I just heard from someone who's quite upset that I posted information on the internet about Highway 66. He'd prefer it if we all kept quiet about ice conditions in Western Colorado. (Has anyone else got a message like this? Poor guy, he must have his work cut out). Obviously I'm terribly sorry about this, so I'd like to explain that Highway 66 is actually in really bad shape. It's thin, brittle, chandeliered, running with water and generally rotten, and the avvy bowl up high is about to let loose any moment now. And your pack will be destroyed by ravenous marmots that have worken up early from hibernation. So everyone, please stay away. I hope this clarifies things.
Ah yes the protectionist climber. They're a common breed. They don't like to admit that their sport is somewhat more "mainstream" these days. God forbid we make posts with the hopes of helping better inform other climbers. It doesn't mean there will be swarms of people at your favorite secret spot the next time you go out, but they like to pretend it will bring out every gumby and their frat-boy friend. Oh, and don't worry, it was someone else's favorite secret spot long before it was yours.
/rant |
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By Kevin Craig
Mar 23, 2013
| I wonder how many climbers have had the: "Is this it? Is this where I die?" experience on Polar Circus? Happened to me a few years ago just after finishing a lead on the ribbon pitch - on a day where the avy danger was "moderate" and the wardens had told us "it's totally safe, we just bombed it yesterday" - which, as anyone who climbs much in Canada knows, the wardens NEVER say. You guys did the right thing, start in the dark and climb fast. Many these days treat it as pretty casual, but it's always a serious undertaking. |
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By Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Mar 23, 2013
| The previous year I tried twice and bailed due to avi conditions. This year it was in great shape... I didn't think they did much control work up that way. |
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By Noah8000
From Arvada, CO
Mar 24, 2013
| Kevin Craig wrote: I wonder how many climbers have had the: "Is this it? Is this where I die?" experience on Polar Circus? Happened to me a few years ago just after finishing a lead on the ribbon pitch - on a day where the avy danger was "moderate" and the wardens had told us "it's totally safe, we just bombed it yesterday" - which, as anyone who climbs much in Canada knows, the wardens NEVER say. You guys did the right thing, start in the dark and climb fast. Many these days treat it as pretty casual, but it's always a serious undertaking.
Yeah, had a cornice the size of a car or two go down by our side on the last couple pitches. Shook everything. And went down the previous pitches. Avy danger was good that day. Pretty scary. Made for a let's get out of here asap moment. |
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By Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Mar 28, 2013
| Colin, did you happen to see/take pics of anything on Longs yesterday? Specifically the Dutchman, my friend and I are looking at going up tomorrow. Was the snow deep in Martha or had it settled a bit? |
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By Colin the Wann
Mar 28, 2013
| Nick Venechuk wrote: Colin, did you happen to see/take pics of anything on Longs yesterday? Specifically the Dutchman, my friend and I are looking at going up tomorrow. Was the snow deep in Martha or had it settled a bit?
The snow was marginal. wind slab over sugar on top of some ice forming way below. the Dutchman looked good, with a short ice step visible from across the cirque. not sure about the snow on that aspect right now. |
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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Mar 28, 2013
| Oliver Deshler wrote: Account of an attempt on the great canadian classic - Polar Circus. www.county5.blogspot.com/2013/03/polar-circus.html GREAT write up! I rarely read through any of these, your story was very captivating! Nice climb, and smart move. I hurts bailing so close, but IMO no climb is worth a life. Stuff happens, but prudence keeps us climbing, not pushing up daisies. |
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By Yaroslav
Mar 30, 2013
| Some pictures of Dreamweaver, Flying Dutchman and some others routes but not Martha.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117149657303814229716/albums/5861308466750345201?authkey=CJ66vvTT0PK-kAE
| Flying Dutchman 3/30.2013
Submitted By: Yaroslav on Mar 30, 2013
| |
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By Mike Bannister
Mar 31, 2013
| Looks like the Shroud in ten mile canyon slid a couple of days ago. 150'x50' pile of wet-slide looking snowballs below the climb and some debris above. We also saw some roller ball action above three tiers and the chimney. Be watchful of the sun if you're climbing in ten mile! |
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By Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Apr 1, 2013
|
Did the Dutchman on Friday 03/29. About a foot of soft powder over firm snow, it actually would have been a great ski descent if we'd brought them. Lambs Slide was in the same condition.
The ice pitch on the Dutchman is definitely in but the ice is not as fat as it looks. Some of the snow-covered patches in the photo have no ice at all and in some places the ice is several inches deep. Good conditions, just variable ice. |
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By GLD
Apr 1, 2013
| How is the Long's approach? Should I skin up or is the postholing not too bad? |
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