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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Mar 18, 2013
devil's lake falling
Hi guys,
any informations about ice climbing by estes park.
like west gully by balck lake or hidden falls.
Any other suggestion about ice to hit in this area or by vail it is welcome.
Thanks
Medslim
From Urbana
Joined Oct 11, 2012
42 points
Mar 19, 2013
Soloing upper tiers of Hayes falls
Anyone been up to Lincoln Falls this week? Looking at Scottish Gulley. Arianne Hendrick
From North Pole, AK
Joined Jan 30, 2012
20 points
Mar 19, 2013
Ari Allen wrote:
Anyone been up to Lincoln Falls this week? Looking at Scottish Gulley.

I was up there Saturday and the Gulley was looking awesome! We reverse climbed it (TR each pitch down) and 2 guys lead it before we reversed it.

I want to go back for the lead!
GLD
Joined Jan 19, 2012
97 points
Mar 19, 2013
Grace falls is fat on the left side. Thin and chandeliered in the middle. My bet is it will only get fatter in the month of april. mthomas
Joined Sep 25, 2009
51 points
Mar 19, 2013
Martin le Roux wrote:
Climbed Highway 66 on Saturday. It was big & fat, no harder than grade 4, maybe only 3+. The approach gully had slid in the heat a day or two earlier; it was nicely consolidated on Saturday, but it could slide again if it's a warm day. We saw a couple of people on Stairway; the first pitch looked like it was almost down to bare rock at the top, but otherwise it looked good. It looked like the first pitch of Whorehouse had plenty of ice, but we didn't get a close look.


Thanks very much Martin! Did Highway 66 today. Agree with the rating. Worthwhile going.
Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Joined Dec 30, 2012
15 points
Mar 22, 2013
Nina GJ wrote:
Thanks very much Martin! Did Highway 66 today. Agree with the rating. Worthwhile going.


+1, very nice!
ice-rock365
Joined Mar 22, 2013
0 points
Mar 22, 2013
Stairway to Heaven
Well, I guess I owe everyone an apology. I just heard from someone who's quite upset that I posted information on the internet about Highway 66. He'd prefer it if we all kept quiet about ice conditions in Western Colorado. (Has anyone else got a message like this? Poor guy, he must have his work cut out). Obviously I'm terribly sorry about this, so I'd like to explain that Highway 66 is actually in really bad shape. It's thin, brittle, chandeliered, running with water and generally rotten, and the avvy bowl up high is about to let loose any moment now. And your pack will be destroyed by ravenous marmots that have worken up early from hibernation. So everyone, please stay away. I hope this clarifies things. Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Joined Jul 16, 2003
179 points
Mar 23, 2013
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP...
Martin le Roux wrote:
Well, I guess I owe everyone an apology. I just heard from someone who's quite upset that I posted information on the internet about Highway 66. He'd prefer it if we all kept quiet about ice conditions in Western Colorado. (Has anyone else got a message like this? Poor guy, he must have his work cut out). Obviously I'm terribly sorry about this, so I'd like to explain that Highway 66 is actually in really bad shape. It's thin, brittle, chandeliered, running with water and generally rotten, and the avvy bowl up high is about to let loose any moment now. And your pack will be destroyed by ravenous marmots that have worken up early from hibernation. So everyone, please stay away. I hope this clarifies things.


Ah yes the protectionist climber. They're a common breed. They don't like to admit that their sport is somewhat more "mainstream" these days. God forbid we make posts with the hopes of helping better inform other climbers. It doesn't mean there will be swarms of people at your favorite secret spot the next time you go out, but they like to pretend it will bring out every gumby and their frat-boy friend. Oh, and don't worry, it was someone else's favorite secret spot long before it was yours.

/rant
Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2009
46 points
Mar 23, 2013
Account of an attempt on the great canadian classic - Polar Circus.

county5.blogspot.com/2013/03/p...
Oliver Deshler
Joined May 7, 2010
2 points
Mar 23, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
I wonder how many climbers have had the: "Is this it? Is this where I die?" experience on Polar Circus? Happened to me a few years ago just after finishing a lead on the ribbon pitch - on a day where the avy danger was "moderate" and the wardens had told us "it's totally safe, we just bombed it yesterday" - which, as anyone who climbs much in Canada knows, the wardens NEVER say. You guys did the right thing, start in the dark and climb fast. Many these days treat it as pretty casual, but it's always a serious undertaking. Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Mar 23, 2013
Laps in Ouray
The previous year I tried twice and bailed due to avi conditions. This year it was in great shape... I didn't think they did much control work up that way. Jonathan White
From littleton, co
Joined Aug 22, 2005
113 points
Mar 23, 2013
Me belaying: Talisman
Oliver Deshler wrote:
Account of an attempt on the great canadian classic - Polar Circus. county5.blogspot.com/2013/03/p...


Wow gentlemen. Great story and great photos! Nice work up there and glad everyone made it off the climb OK. It sounds to me like a great success overall.
Timmy Foulkes
Joined Jan 17, 2011
14 points
Mar 24, 2013
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Kevin Craig wrote:
I wonder how many climbers have had the: "Is this it? Is this where I die?" experience on Polar Circus? Happened to me a few years ago just after finishing a lead on the ribbon pitch - on a day where the avy danger was "moderate" and the wardens had told us "it's totally safe, we just bombed it yesterday" - which, as anyone who climbs much in Canada knows, the wardens NEVER say. You guys did the right thing, start in the dark and climb fast. Many these days treat it as pretty casual, but it's always a serious undertaking.


Yeah, had a cornice the size of a car or two go down by our side on the last couple pitches. Shook everything. And went down the previous pitches. Avy danger was good that day. Pretty scary. Made for a let's get out of here asap moment.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
999 points
Mar 28, 2013
Snow steppin and metal scrappin up Martha last friday.
Martha, 3/22/13.
Martha, 3/22/13.
Colin the Wann
Joined May 24, 2012
11 points
Mar 28, 2013
Colin, did you happen to see/take pics of anything on Longs yesterday? Specifically the Dutchman, my friend and I are looking at going up tomorrow. Was the snow deep in Martha or had it settled a bit? Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Mar 28, 2013
Nick Venechuk wrote:
Colin, did you happen to see/take pics of anything on Longs yesterday? Specifically the Dutchman, my friend and I are looking at going up tomorrow. Was the snow deep in Martha or had it settled a bit?


The snow was marginal. wind slab over sugar on top of some ice forming way below. the Dutchman looked good, with a short ice step visible from across the cirque. not sure about the snow on that aspect right now.
Colin the Wann
Joined May 24, 2012
11 points
Mar 28, 2013
Oliver Deshler wrote:
Account of an attempt on the great canadian classic - Polar Circus. county5.blogspot.com/2013/03/p...


GREAT write up! I rarely read through any of these, your story was very captivating! Nice climb, and smart move. I hurts bailing so close, but IMO no climb is worth a life. Stuff happens, but prudence keeps us climbing, not pushing up daisies.
Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Mar 30, 2013
Some pictures of Dreamweaver, Flying Dutchman and some others routes but not Martha.

plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117...
Flying Dutchman 3/30.2013
Flying Dutchman 3/30.2013
Yaroslav
From Longmont
Joined Sep 29, 2012
10 points
Mar 31, 2013
photo
Looks like the Shroud in ten mile canyon slid a couple of days ago. 150'x50' pile of wet-slide looking snowballs below the climb and some debris above. We also saw some roller ball action above three tiers and the chimney. Be watchful of the sun if you're climbing in ten mile! Mike Bannister
Joined Oct 9, 2010
323 points
Apr 1, 2013
Dutchman ice.
Dutchman ice.


Did the Dutchman on Friday 03/29. About a foot of soft powder over firm snow, it actually would have been a great ski descent if we'd brought them. Lambs Slide was in the same condition.

The ice pitch on the Dutchman is definitely in but the ice is not as fat as it looks. Some of the snow-covered patches in the photo have no ice at all and in some places the ice is several inches deep. Good conditions, just variable ice.
Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Apr 1, 2013
How is the Long's approach? Should I skin up or is the postholing not too bad? GLD
Joined Jan 19, 2012
97 points
Apr 2, 2013
No skis or flotation needed to the junction or Chasm Lake, the trail's pretty well packed or wind scoured. Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Apr 2, 2013
More Canadian Rockies photos.

county5.blogspot.com/2013/04/t...
Oliver Deshler
Joined May 7, 2010
2 points
Apr 2, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Awesome shots, Oliver!!!!! Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
Apr 3, 2013
2nd pitch of Womb.
anyone seen dreamweaver? michael voth
From Ft. Collins, CO
Joined Feb 23, 2012
58 points


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