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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Mar 4, 2013
Found this lurking around Boulder County after a 2 mile bushwhack from the car.


What should I name it?!!
What should I name it?!!

98% sure this hasn't been climbed before, very remote, no trails, lots of wildlife. On public land.

The break at the bottom has filled in some since the above photo was taken a week earlier, bad camera day today.


Crappy camera.
Crappy camera.

Good Beginner/Intermediate route with solid TR anchors (20' sling).
The dilemma is telling anyone where it is.
SavageMarmot
From Nederland, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
197 points
Mar 5, 2013
preparing to rap over a crevasse; Mt. Waddington, ...
Taylor-B. wrote:
Any one know any info on the current conditions of Avocado Gulley? Thank You


Avacado Gully is dry as a bone, as of 3/3/2013. Other classics in the Redstone area are in good shape, however. Redstone pillar and Marble Falls both in, and the Drool looked good from the approach to Redstone Pillar.
OReid
From Denver, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2010
40 points
Mar 5, 2013
Bocan
Mike Hughes wrote:
The dilemma is telling anyone where it is.


Well Mike, you've made 5 posts about this flow, so I'm guessing you want to really bad. Either that or you enjoy letting everyone know that you now have your own "secret" spot.

Either way it looks like a nice little piece of ice.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Mar 5, 2013
Would I be a jerk if someone were to teach me and provide me with the equipment to accomplish a lead climb of this flow in return for disclosure (just need some screws)? It's a precious place and extraordinarily untrammeled, better be good. Can I get a consensus on who I should talk to? SavageMarmot
From Nederland, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
197 points
Mar 5, 2013
no need. just got back.

called it Poindexter Was Here, WI2/3-

enjoy
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Mar 5, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
I've been visiting our neighbors to north for the past 3 weekends. Anyone know if Hidden Falls in Glenwood or Rifle are still in? Thanks for any info. Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Mar 5, 2013
Beagle
The Talisman is REALLY good right now... video was from about one month ago. Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Joined Nov 7, 2005
1,064 points
Mar 5, 2013
Kevin Craig wrote:
I've been visiting our neighbors to north for the past 3 weekends. Anyone know if Hidden Falls in Glenwood or Rifle are still in? Thanks for any info.

Hidden Falls is still great, approach is well packed. The leftmost corner is very fat too. Rifle is very warm, but Stone and Soul are still in good condition.
Chris Parsons
Joined Oct 3, 2011
18 points
Mar 6, 2013
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Beagle wrote:
The Talisman is REALLY good right now... video was from about one month ago.


Awesome video! Looks FAT!
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
995 points
Mar 6, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Tom Casey wrote:
Hidden Falls is still great, approach is well packed. The leftmost corner is very fat too. Rifle is very warm, but Stone and Soul are still in good condition.


Thanks!
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Mar 6, 2013
Tom Casey wrote:
Hidden Falls is still great, approach is well packed. The leftmost corner is very fat too. Rifle is very warm, but Stone and Soul are still in good condition.


FYI...the tyrolean to get to Hidden Falls could do with a bit of tightening. We went up last weekend: I (about 155 pounds plus pack)barely cleared the water, but my partner (likely pushing 200 pounds?)got pretty wet, especially in the afternoon coming back. For some reason the line seemed tighter in the morning.
tom bohanon
Joined Jan 24, 2006
26 points
Mar 6, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Was just wondering about the Tyrolean. Will bring gear to try to snug it up if we end up there - especially since my weight is in your partner's range! :) Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Mar 8, 2013
photo
Anyone been up to The Secret Stash in Vail recently (or this year?) Was going to check it out yesterday but the trail looked rather "virgin" and we bailed. Mike Bannister
Joined Oct 9, 2010
323 points
Mar 8, 2013
Anyone been up Total Abandon or Blind Assumption on Pikes Peak Lately? Its been pretty warm in Colorado Springs. BillyGoatSam
From Colorado Springs
Joined Jan 21, 2012
0 points
Mar 12, 2013
Selfie in the Sierras
Was up at Vail this weekend. Secret stash was a little beat up, but pretty solid and fun to climb, the Designator was pretty solid, and I think the Fang collapsed and is reforming. Dan.Schultz
From SW Colorado
Joined Oct 8, 2012
7 points
Mar 13, 2013
anyone been up to longs lately/know how dreamweaver is looking? A.P.Lee
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 11, 2012
21 points
Mar 14, 2013
Same question about Marthas? Any ice in it? ixf729
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 9, 2009
2 points
Mar 16, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
I was on Long's yesterday (3/14) and Dreamweaver had seemingly no ice in at the crux. But it's starting to fill in with snow.

Martha looked better than it did last month when I climbed it. I'd imagine there's some ice in it now. Would be worth it to go up there if you're psyched on Martha. I climbed it in lean conditions which would likely not be encountered around now.

The Flying Dutchman was decent snow to a pretty fat ice crux. The ice took 13cm & 17cm screws. Pretty good day out.
Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,618 points
Mar 17, 2013
Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road or gone to Eureka? Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Joined Dec 30, 2012
15 points
Mar 17, 2013
Ouray Ice Park
Nina GJ wrote:
Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road or gone to Eureka?

In Ouray now. Drove up Camp Bird yesterday, but didn't get far enough to see any ice. Drove up Red Mountain to the summit and saw Horsetail and a few other routes are in. Gravity is not in though.
BryanV
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Nov 14, 2008
30 points
Mar 17, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
The Drool has fallen down - barely even a base left to the pillar.

Redstone Pillar is still good to go for a while yet, but getting pretty snicey so pro is somewhat psychological.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Mar 18, 2013
Stairway to Heaven
Nina GJ wrote:
Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road or gone to Eureka?


Climbed Highway 66 on Saturday. It was big & fat, no harder than grade 4, maybe only 3+. The approach gully had slid in the heat a day or two earlier; it was nicely consolidated on Saturday, but it could slide again if it's a warm day.

We saw a couple of people on Stairway; the first pitch looked like it was almost down to bare rock at the top, but otherwise it looked good.

It looked like the first pitch of Whorehouse had plenty of ice, but we didn't get a close look.
Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Joined Jul 16, 2003
172 points
Mar 18, 2013
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP...
Andy Hansen wrote:
I was on Long's yesterday (3/14) and Dreamweaver had seemingly no ice in at the crux. But it's starting to fill in with snow. Martha looked better than it did last month when I climbed it. I'd imagine there's some ice in it now. Would be worth it to go up there if you're psyched on Martha. I climbed it in lean conditions which would likely not be encountered around now. The Flying Dutchman was decent snow to a pretty fat ice crux. The ice took 13cm & 17cm screws. Pretty good day out.


Kind of curious on Dutchman. Did you need slow shoes for the approach? I know the trail below treeline is pretty packed in the winter, but I've regretted not bringing them above treeline sometimes and loathed bringing them others.

Thanks!

PS I'm definitely waiting this week and next week out as, according to the forecast, winds might whip up some -70 windchill values. Also, some snow is in the forecast, and a few good friends of mine have descended the Loft in a white-out and apparently it was no fun at all.
Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2009
46 points
Mar 18, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
I did not bring any floatation when I went up to TFD. I didn't think they were necessary. Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,618 points
Mar 18, 2013
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP...
Andy Hansen wrote:
I did not bring any floatation when I went up to TFD. I didn't think they were necessary.


Nice! Thanks, Andy! Hopefully the wind this week scours most of the incoming snow off of the approach. I know I'll regret the decision to bring or not bring them either way. It's just how it goes. Hah!
Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2009
46 points


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