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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Feb 23, 2013
Flakes of Wrath
David Appelhans wrote:
Silk Road is out.




Yeah. Not looking promising, definitely going to need more snow.
Just a dribble.
Just a dribble.
Paul-B
Joined Mar 26, 2011
115 points
Feb 23, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
Climbed AMU on Friday. It's thin but climbable. Be prepared to mainly be placing stubbies the whole way. Bring some small gear like RP's or ballnuts so you don't have to run it out like 100 ft. Last pitch is fun.

Also climbed some route at Loch Vale. Wish I had a picture but it was a line at the far right end of the cliff, probably the last route. Starts with two thin columns that run down the rock below a big snowy ledge with hanging curtains of orange/brown ice. I traversed around the hanging curtain to a right facing corner with mixed feet under a small roof to a thin finish (not quite stubby thick). Probably about WI4 M4 R in difficulty and about 50 feet tall maybe. There were two small trees with slings at the top, one green and old, one blue with a rap ring on it. Does anyone happen to know what that is?

Everything else was pretty thin.
jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2008
250 points
Feb 24, 2013
Anyone have any idea what Hallett Chimney is looking like? John Collis
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jul 10, 2010
39 points
Feb 24, 2013
Just below Thunderbolt Peak
John Collis wrote:
Anyone have any idea what Hallett Chimney is looking like?


Given that it's February, probably powder stacked on top of more powder, maybe with avy danger.

Probably best to ask again around May 1st.
Colin Simon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 30, 2009
441 points
Feb 24, 2013
How big are those flows by Peacock Pool? It's hard to tell scale. They look fat, but it's hard to tell if they're 20ft or a couple of pitches. Worth going up there just for those? Ben Fullerton
Joined Feb 8, 2012
0 points
Feb 24, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
Climbed Hessie Chimney today, only the first pitch. I swung tools once into actual ice. It seemed a little harder than the M5 grade would suggest. A bit chossy where I'm assuming there is usually ice. The spindrift was heinous. Was getting buried as I belayed. Overall a fun powder slog. Skiing probably would of been a higher work to fun ratio but oh well.

Also the flows by Peacock Pools are maybe 100ft tall. Whether they are worth it is personal preference. I spent the past 3 days wallowing in snow to get to ice. 2 of those days I only got one pitch. I'd say they're worth it.
jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2008
250 points
Feb 24, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
Ben Fullerton wrote:
How big are those flows by Peacock Pool? It's hard to tell scale. They look fat, but it's hard to tell if they're 20ft or a couple of pitches. Worth going up there just for those?


Ben, a friend of mine was up there yesterday. Ice was fat. Roughly 120 feet both left and right. You have to cross an avy path on the southeast side of MLW to get to them so be aware.
Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,618 points
Feb 25, 2013
Andy Hansen wrote:
Ben, a friend of mine was up there yesterday. Ice was fat. Roughly 120 feet both left and right. You have to cross the avy slope of the southeast side of Martha to get to them so be aware.


Oh, then it's probably not the best time to be up there tomorrow, with all the new snow deposited...

Thanks for the heads up!
Ben Fullerton
Joined Feb 8, 2012
0 points
Feb 25, 2013
First morning at Indian Creek!!!
Clear Creek Canyon Ice: 2-24-2013

Mickey's Bigmouth [OUT]
CCC, Mickey 2-24-2013.
CCC, Mickey 2-24-2013.



Coors Lite [OUT]
CCC ice, Coors Lite, 2-24-2013.
CCC ice, Coors Lite, 2-24-2013.
J Antin
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2009
896 points
Feb 25, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Ben Fullerton wrote:
Oh, then it's probably not the best time to be up there tomorrow, with all the new snow deposited... Thanks for the heads up!


Columbine Falls by peacock pool is worth it, trust me!!! Be mindful of the recent snow, but for real....GET ON IT!!! I'd say if you count the upper "endure slab" it's more than 120'.

Good Luck.
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Feb 25, 2013
J Antin wrote:
Clear Creek Canyon Ice: 2-24-2013 Mickey's Bigmouth [OUT] Coors Lite [OUT]



That's more than out... that's non-existent! Some stuff that regularly forms here is dry as a bone as well. Lame year for most front range stuff. Hopefully weather patterns will change for next season. Might need to plan a trip to the interior of RMNP.
Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Feb 25, 2013
seth0687 wrote:
Columbine Falls by peacock pool is worth it, trust me!!! Be mindful of the recent snow, but for real....GET ON IT!!! I'd say if you count the upper "endure slab" it's more than 120'. Good Luck.


It's definitely on the short term list to get on while it's still fat! Thanks for the rec...
Ben Fullerton
Joined Feb 8, 2012
0 points
Feb 26, 2013
Thrill is Gone
Upper Haflin Creek is in. Brittle on Sunday.
Upper Haflin.
Upper Haflin.


Upper Haflin 2.
Upper Haflin 2.
ozman
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
552 points
Feb 26, 2013
Mountain Bandito
Any one know any info on the current conditions of Avocado Gulley?
Thank You
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,624 points
Mar 1, 2013
me on my redpoint
anyone know silverton conditions? Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Mar 2, 2013
Summit shot
Anyone know if Brainfreeze or anything else in the area is in? Seems a bit dicey with recent snow for the approach. Drew McLean
From Colorado
Joined Oct 16, 2006
378 points
Mar 3, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
Drew McLean wrote:
Anyone know if Brainfreeze or anything else in the area is in? Seems a bit dicey with recent snow for the approach.

Minimal new snow in RMNP last week (unlike Boulder) and high winds have scraped most surfaces, removing much of the avalanche potential. Skied Dragontail yesterday and it was solid base with no reactive wind slabs in there. Saw three fresh crowns of recent natural soft slabs (6" thick) on unsupported terrain in the Tyndall. Avi danger overall is MODERATE in RMNP with pockets of LOW to EXTREME.(mostly low)
Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,043 points
Mar 3, 2013
Taylor-B. wrote:
Any one know any info on the current conditions of Avocado Gulley? Thank You



Still nothing....it's not going to make it this year, unfortunately.
tom bohanon
Joined Jan 24, 2006
26 points
Mar 3, 2013
Silverton would be a death trap right now, given all the snow the San Juans have had. If you go up, go way early and be out before the sun starts to hit over the ridge... Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Mar 3, 2013
Just Solo wrote:
Silverton would be a death trap right now, given all the snow the San Juans have had. If you go up, go way early and be out before the sun starts to hit over the ridge...

I agree...I was there this morning around 6am and did tempered by fire. STH looked loaded with many slides on the approach trail. There were 2 brave souls heading up the slide...
huge release near fat city...more snow coming this week. Ouray was good.
Cheers,
L.
perropirana
Joined Nov 1, 2008
28 points
Mar 3, 2013
James at the start of Stairway to Heaven near Silv...
Hello

We climbed at Lincoln Falls today and the ice is still good, thinking of heading to North Cheyenne Canyon (Colorado Springs) tomorrow, does anyone know if the easy ice routes there are in right now? thanks in advance



Scottish Gully, I guess...good times.
Scottish Gully, I guess...good times.
James Faerber
Joined Sep 15, 2010
31 points
Mar 3, 2013
Thrill is Gone
re: Silverton:

Santa Claus climbed well today with great blue condition. Bootpack has been put in up the creek.
Santa Claus amphitheater.
Santa Claus amphitheater.


Back of the pillar goods.
Back of the pillar goods.
ozman
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
552 points
Mar 4, 2013
Post- Greenwood/Locke, Mt Temple, Canda
Anyone have an opinion on whether Right Gully on McHenry's would be in good shape right now or not? Scotty Nelson
From Boulder
Joined Jan 1, 2002
932 points
Mar 4, 2013
Please let me know if you find a blue BD turbo ice screw half way up fat city. I had to leave it there a couple of weekends ago when a peice of ice hit my wife. Hope you can help. Thanks. Martin Barnett
Joined Jun 17, 2006
96 points
Mar 4, 2013
San Juans:

Bridalveil (in Telluride) was a dripping mess on Sunday. We bailed after realizing we had forgotten our swinsuits.

The park was in pretty bad shape Saturday. Still lots to climb but poor conditions. Lead area is barely usable.

Also: found some gear at the base of Bridalveil; reply or PM with a description if it's yours.
Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 14, 2004
153 points


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