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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 22, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop
Rodney P wrote:
Sweet photos, thanks Seth!!:)


Hey man, I might not be able to climb the ice, but I can damn sure take pictures of it!

cheers,

Seth

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By Paul-B
Feb 23, 2013
Flakes of Wrath
Going to hike up and check out ice in the flatirons today, anybody seen mous-ka-tears recently? Anything formed at all?

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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Feb 23, 2013
Imaginate
Silk Road is out.

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By mtoensing
From Boulder
Feb 23, 2013
Props to my home state show
Paul-B wrote:
Going to hike up and check out ice in the flatirons today, anybody seen mous-ka-tears recently? Anything formed at all?


That would be sweet but it's not in.

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By Paul-B
Feb 23, 2013
Flakes of Wrath
David Appelhans wrote:
Silk Road is out.




Yeah. Not looking promising, definitely going to need more snow.
Just a dribble.
Just a dribble.

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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 23, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.
Climbed AMU on Friday. It's thin but climbable. Be prepared to mainly be placing stubbies the whole way. Bring some small gear like RP's or ballnuts so you don't have to run it out like 100 ft. Last pitch is fun.

Also climbed some route at Loch Vale. Wish I had a picture but it was a line at the far right end of the cliff, probably the last route. Starts with two thin columns that run down the rock below a big snowy ledge with hanging curtains of orange/brown ice. I traversed around the hanging curtain to a right facing corner with mixed feet under a small roof to a thin finish (not quite stubby thick). Probably about WI4 M4 R in difficulty and about 50 feet tall maybe. There were two small trees with slings at the top, one green and old, one blue with a rap ring on it. Does anyone happen to know what that is?

Everything else was pretty thin.

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By John Collis
Feb 24, 2013
Anyone have any idea what Hallett Chimney is looking like?

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By Colin Simon
From Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2013
Just below Thunderbolt Peak
John Collis wrote:
Anyone have any idea what Hallett Chimney is looking like?


Given that it's February, probably powder stacked on top of more powder, maybe with avy danger.

Probably best to ask again around May 1st.

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By Ben Fullerton
Feb 24, 2013
How big are those flows by Peacock Pool? It's hard to tell scale. They look fat, but it's hard to tell if they're 20ft or a couple of pitches. Worth going up there just for those?

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By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 24, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.
Climbed Hessie Chimney today, only the first pitch. I swung tools once into actual ice. It seemed a little harder than the M5 grade would suggest. A bit chossy where I'm assuming there is usually ice. The spindrift was heinous. Was getting buried as I belayed. Overall a fun powder slog. Skiing probably would of been a higher work to fun ratio but oh well.

Also the flows by Peacock Pools are maybe 100ft tall. Whether they are worth it is personal preference. I spent the past 3 days wallowing in snow to get to ice. 2 of those days I only got one pitch. I'd say they're worth it.

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Feb 24, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
Ben Fullerton wrote:
How big are those flows by Peacock Pool? It's hard to tell scale. They look fat, but it's hard to tell if they're 20ft or a couple of pitches. Worth going up there just for those?


Ben, a friend of mine was up there yesterday. Ice was fat. Roughly 120 feet both left and right. You have to cross an avy path on the southeast side of MLW to get to them so be aware.

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By Ben Fullerton
Feb 25, 2013
Andy Hansen wrote:
Ben, a friend of mine was up there yesterday. Ice was fat. Roughly 120 feet both left and right. You have to cross the avy slope of the southeast side of Martha to get to them so be aware.


Oh, then it's probably not the best time to be up there tomorrow, with all the new snow deposited...

Thanks for the heads up!

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By J Antin
From Denver, CO
Feb 25, 2013
First morning at Indian Creek!!!
Clear Creek Canyon Ice: 2-24-2013

Mickey's Bigmouth [OUT]
CCC, Mickey 2-24-2013.
CCC, Mickey 2-24-2013.



Coors Lite [OUT]
CCC ice, Coors Lite, 2-24-2013.
CCC ice, Coors Lite, 2-24-2013.

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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 25, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop
Ben Fullerton wrote:
Oh, then it's probably not the best time to be up there tomorrow, with all the new snow deposited... Thanks for the heads up!


Columbine Falls by peacock pool is worth it, trust me!!! Be mindful of the recent snow, but for real....GET ON IT!!! I'd say if you count the upper "endure slab" it's more than 120'.

Good Luck.

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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Feb 25, 2013
J Antin wrote:
Clear Creek Canyon Ice: 2-24-2013 Mickey's Bigmouth [OUT] Coors Lite [OUT]



That's more than out... that's non-existent! Some stuff that regularly forms here is dry as a bone as well. Lame year for most front range stuff. Hopefully weather patterns will change for next season. Might need to plan a trip to the interior of RMNP.

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By Ben Fullerton
Feb 25, 2013
seth0687 wrote:
Columbine Falls by peacock pool is worth it, trust me!!! Be mindful of the recent snow, but for real....GET ON IT!!! I'd say if you count the upper "endure slab" it's more than 120'. Good Luck.


It's definitely on the short term list to get on while it's still fat! Thanks for the rec...

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By ozman
From CO / NM
Feb 26, 2013
Hyalite shots
Upper Haflin Creek is in. Brittle on Sunday.
Upper Haflin.
Upper Haflin.


Upper Haflin 2.
Upper Haflin 2.

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By Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Feb 26, 2013
Mt. Churchill, University Range
Any one know any info on the current conditions of Avocado Gulley?
Thank You

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By Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Mar 1, 2013
me on my redpoint
anyone know silverton conditions?

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By Drew McLean
From Colorado
Mar 2, 2013
Summit shot
Anyone know if Brainfreeze or anything else in the area is in? Seems a bit dicey with recent snow for the approach.

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By Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Mar 3, 2013
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
Drew McLean wrote:
Anyone know if Brainfreeze or anything else in the area is in? Seems a bit dicey with recent snow for the approach.

Minimal new snow in RMNP last week (unlike Boulder) and high winds have scraped most surfaces, removing much of the avalanche potential. Skied Dragontail yesterday and it was solid base with no reactive wind slabs in there. Saw three fresh crowns of recent natural soft slabs (6" thick) on unsupported terrain in the Tyndall. Avi danger overall is MODERATE in RMNP with pockets of LOW to EXTREME.(mostly low)

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By tom bohanon
Mar 3, 2013
Taylor-B. wrote:
Any one know any info on the current conditions of Avocado Gulley? Thank You



Still nothing....it's not going to make it this year, unfortunately.

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By Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Mar 3, 2013
Silverton would be a death trap right now, given all the snow the San Juans have had. If you go up, go way early and be out before the sun starts to hit over the ridge...

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By perropirana
Mar 3, 2013
Just Solo wrote:
Silverton would be a death trap right now, given all the snow the San Juans have had. If you go up, go way early and be out before the sun starts to hit over the ridge...

I agree...I was there this morning around 6am and did tempered by fire. STH looked loaded with many slides on the approach trail. There were 2 brave souls heading up the slide...
huge release near fat city...more snow coming this week. Ouray was good.
Cheers,
L.

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By James Faerber
Mar 3, 2013
James at the start of Stairway to Heaven near Silverton Colorado
Hello

We climbed at Lincoln Falls today and the ice is still good, thinking of heading to North Cheyenne Canyon (Colorado Springs) tomorrow, does anyone know if the easy ice routes there are in right now? thanks in advance



Scottish Gully, I guess...good times.
Scottish Gully, I guess...good times.

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