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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Feb 15, 2013
Scott:

Avy hazard is generally pretty low due in Cody (rarely much snow on the ground), but be aware of considerable rock fall danger at the base of a lot of pitches, particularly if it's very windy or sunny on the benches above you. Try not to get geared up in exposed areas (judge by the amount of rock on the ground and pick a safe(r) spot).

Also keep an eye out for rocks coming down while climbing pitches (ask your belayer to pay attention and give warnings).
Rock fall can be particularly bad at the base of the fist pitch of Mean Green for example.

Re. the sandbagged reputation of the area: I think it is more the facts that there is relatively little traffic on most routes and that nighttime temperatures can be very low. This makes for hard, brittle, and virgin ice a lot of the time. No Ouray-style hooking here, but real, old-fashioned ice climbing!

Oh, and be bear- and moose-aware on the approaches... ;-)
Have fun! The North Fork is a very special place.
Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 14, 2004
154 points
Feb 15, 2013
no way cody is sandbagged. this is totally the same grade 4 as spiral staircase:


mean green crux
Jason Killgore
From boulder, co
Joined Sep 18, 2008
178 points
Feb 15, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Dang! MG is thin this year. Yeah, I've had friends insist that pitch is 5 after following it, even in fatter conditions. Just have to know where you're climbing (rock or ice)! As an update, I just saw a photo of the South Fork from today, and I'd say the avy danger is about as low as it gets. Get after it and have fun! Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Feb 16, 2013
Just a heads up, Rigid Designator no has two horizontal fractures, one at 1/2 height and one at 2/3rd height. May heal up by tomorrow, may not. Be careful. funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Feb 17, 2013
I left two BD wiregates at the top of silverplume falls, if you happen upon them just leave em be I will be back in the area soon-ish. Jon E.
Joined Aug 12, 2011
50 points
Feb 17, 2013
Does anyone know the conditions on All Mixed Up? Any bata would be good too. thanks. AaronPugmire
Joined Mar 8, 2012
16 points
Feb 18, 2013
Flakes of Wrath
Nina GJ wrote:
Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road lately? Is there a little more ice forming on Skylight? THX


I was at Camp Bird yesterday. Skylight is formed up, last part of the 2nd pitch is mixed. Most stuff at Camp Bird is in, thin, and chopped to bits. Skylight is maybe the most chopped and chandeliered. I was going to get on it, but there was quite a line. I did slippery when wet (in, a little bit thin, maybe less chopped than other lines) and Senator Gulch flow (in, fat, but picked out).
Paul-B
Joined Mar 26, 2011
120 points
Feb 18, 2013
Indian Creek Climbing
anyone know if chalk creek falls is in?

or agness vaille falls ?
coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Jan 25, 2005
550 points
Feb 18, 2013
Base of the Black Wall pitch on the Direct Exum
Paul-B wrote:
I was at Camp Bird yesterday. Skylight is formed up, last part of the 2nd pitch is mixed. Most stuff at Camp Bird is in, thin, and chopped to bits. Skylight is maybe the most chopped and chandeliered. I was going to get on it, but there was quite a line. I did slippery when wet (in, a little bit thin, maybe less chopped than other lines) and Senator Gulch flow (in, fat, but picked out).


Only followed P1 on Skylight yesterday but the chockstone at the top was covered making the bottom go at about a (beat out) 4.
Skylight 02-17-13
Skylight 02-17-13
Ted Eliason
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jun 16, 2009
548 points
Feb 18, 2013
Lower Saddle Grand Teton
coop wrote:
anyone know if chalk creek falls ?



Was in Salida 2 weeks back Agnes was formed up, but a large hole with running water on the right side. Might have better luck on the Faucet.
ShaneL
From Colorado Springs, Co
Joined Mar 24, 2011
11 points
Feb 18, 2013
Not much climbing in FL.
I saw a nice picture of Castlewood Canyon ice last month. Is it still in? richardd
From Loveland, CO
Joined May 10, 2012
11 points
Feb 18, 2013
Chalk creek near leadville? If so its beat up but big. funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Feb 19, 2013
Anybody see if clear creek canyon has any ice? sshepher
From Denver, CO
Joined Dec 22, 2007
1 points
Feb 19, 2013
Nilch in clear creek S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Feb 20, 2013
Anyone know about other longs/meeker stuff than the Dutchman? Particularly interested in Alexander's. Any officers gulch beta would be sweet too. Thanks. Dylan Evans
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Apr 18, 2012
21 points
Feb 20, 2013
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
S Denny wrote:
Nilch in clear creek


I found about 20 feet of ice bouldering there on Monday.
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points
Feb 20, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Went up to attempt Martha yesterday, did not finish it though. IMO it was OUT...snow sucked (what snow there was anyway), no ice, pretty much just a pain in the A**.

However, Columbine Falls and the ice flows to the climbers left of Columbine Falls are all IN and pretty fat. There is a good WI4 line on the left most side of Columbine as well as some easier WI3 lines as you move right. Plenty of places to hook and "kinda" stepped out, but still in great condition. I'd say this is the best moderate ice in the park now, but who knows that's just my opinion. I posted pictures under a conditions report for Columbine Falls as well.

I'll add some pictures to this in a second, standby.

Cheers,

Seth
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Feb 21, 2013
seth0687 wrote:
I'll add some pictures to this in a second, standby. Cheers, Seth


Rodney P
From Ouray,CO
Joined Oct 7, 2011
65 points
Feb 21, 2013
mountainproject.com/v/columbin... Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Feb 21, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
>

First off, that was awesome Second, I passed out so my apologizes.

Here you go:

Peacock Pool area.
Peacock Pool area.



Columbine Falls and the flow to climber's left.
Columbine Falls and the flow to climber's left.



Columbine Falls close up.
Columbine Falls close up.



Long's Peak area.
Long's Peak area.



Meeker area.
Meeker area.



Martha.
Martha.
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Feb 21, 2013
Sweet photos, thanks Seth!!:) Rodney P
From Ouray,CO
Joined Oct 7, 2011
65 points
Feb 22, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Rodney P wrote:
Sweet photos, thanks Seth!!:)


Hey man, I might not be able to climb the ice, but I can damn sure take pictures of it!

cheers,

Seth
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Feb 23, 2013
Flakes of Wrath
Going to hike up and check out ice in the flatirons today, anybody seen mous-ka-tears recently? Anything formed at all? Paul-B
Joined Mar 26, 2011
120 points
Feb 23, 2013
Imaginate
Silk Road is out. David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
350 points
Feb 23, 2013
Paul-B wrote:
Going to hike up and check out ice in the flatirons today, anybody seen mous-ka-tears recently? Anything formed at all?


That would be sweet but it's not in.
mtoensing
From Boulder
Joined Feb 25, 2006
826 points


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