The flying dutchman is in shape, however I have been waiting for the avy danger to decrease a little to get on it and it should be in all spring. Martha as of a couple weeks ago was pure rock, no ice. Though these recent snows may have created more.

I'll be doing a last minute trip into cody for the fest, anyone have any azy hazzard beta paired route reccomendations for once I get there, looking for WI3-4 multi, the more pitches the better.

Honestly I haven't been paying attention to recent snow up there (though I know they've gotten some), but it typically takes a LOT of snow in a short period of time to create significant avy danger in the South Fork - it does happen on occasion though. Mostly it blows away or melts. Just ask around the 'Fest and the locals will give you the scoop. For long 3-4 ish routes...Mean Green, High on Boulder, Spyin and Flying, Main Vein (probably have to walk around the first pitch which can be a bit tricky, Cabin Fever + Wyoming Wave, Schoolhouse Route, Triptych drainage, Smooth Emerald Milkshake (probably the best chance for avy danger). It's up to you to assess any slide danger for yourself though. Generally the approaches and walking between pitches is enough for you to get a sense for how much snow is there and what it's like. I'm sure you already know that Colorado or Utah 3-4 is generally easier than Cody 3-4. www.coldfear.com has conditions, ratings and route lengths.

Many thanks Kevin, contatced the fest staff and sounds like avy hazzard is low as usual, and I wasn't aware of the sandbagged nature of the routes up there so that is something I definitely appreciate knowning before getting on the routes. at the same time it makes me that much more excited to go explore up there, not going to lie I've been feeling Utah 3's are pretty soft.... cheers!

Scott:

Avy hazard is generally pretty low due in Cody (rarely much snow on the ground), but be aware of considerable rock fall danger at the base of a lot of pitches, particularly if it's very windy or sunny on the benches above you. Try not to get geared up in exposed areas (judge by the amount of rock on the ground and pick a safe(r) spot).

Also keep an eye out for rocks coming down while climbing pitches (ask your belayer to pay attention and give warnings).
Rock fall can be particularly bad at the base of the fist pitch of Mean Green for example.

Re. the sandbagged reputation of the area: I think it is more the facts that there is relatively little traffic on most routes and that nighttime temperatures can be very low. This makes for hard, brittle, and virgin ice a lot of the time. No Ouray-style hooking here, but real, old-fashioned ice climbing!

Oh, and be bear- and moose-aware on the approaches... ;-)
Have fun! The North Fork is a very special place.

no way cody is sandbagged. this is totally the same grade 4 as spiral staircase:


mean green crux

Dang! MG is thin this year. Yeah, I've had friends insist that pitch is 5 after following it, even in fatter conditions. Just have to know where you're climbing (rock or ice)! As an update, I just saw a photo of the South Fork from today, and I'd say the avy danger is about as low as it gets. Get after it and have fun!

Just a heads up, Rigid Designator no has two horizontal fractures, one at 1/2 height and one at 2/3rd height. May heal up by tomorrow, may not. Be careful.

I left two BD wiregates at the top of silverplume falls, if you happen upon them just leave em be I will be back in the area soon-ish.

Does anyone know the conditions on All Mixed Up? Any bata would be good too. thanks.

anyone know if chalk creek falls is in?

or agness vaille falls ?

I saw a nice picture of Castlewood Canyon ice last month. Is it still in?

Chalk creek near leadville? If so its beat up but big.

Anybody see if clear creek canyon has any ice?

Nilch in clear creek

Anyone know about other longs/meeker stuff than the Dutchman? Particularly interested in Alexander's. Any officers gulch beta would be sweet too. Thanks.

Went up to attempt Martha yesterday, did not finish it though. IMO it was OUT...snow sucked (what snow there was anyway), no ice, pretty much just a pain in the A**.

However, Columbine Falls and the ice flows to the climbers left of Columbine Falls are all IN and pretty fat. There is a good WI4 line on the left most side of Columbine as well as some easier WI3 lines as you move right. Plenty of places to hook and "kinda" stepped out, but still in great condition. I'd say this is the best moderate ice in the park now, but who knows that's just my opinion. I posted pictures under a conditions report for Columbine Falls as well.

I'll add some pictures to this in a second, standby.

Cheers,

Seth

mountainproject.com/v/columbine-falls/105747273

Sweet photos, thanks Seth!!:)