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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By michael voth
Feb 14, 2013
2nd pitch of Womb.

The flying dutchman is in shape, however I have been waiting for the avy danger to decrease a little to get on it and it should be in all spring. Martha as of a couple weeks ago was pure rock, no ice. Though these recent snows may have created more.


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 14, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

I'll be doing a last minute trip into cody for the fest, anyone have any azy hazzard beta paired route reccomendations for once I get there, looking for WI3-4 multi, the more pitches the better.


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By Kevin Craig
Feb 15, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Honestly I haven't been paying attention to recent snow up there (though I know they've gotten some), but it typically takes a LOT of snow in a short period of time to create significant avy danger in the South Fork - it does happen on occasion though. Mostly it blows away or melts. Just ask around the 'Fest and the locals will give you the scoop. For long 3-4 ish routes...Mean Green, High on Boulder, Spyin and Flying, Main Vein (probably have to walk around the first pitch which can be a bit tricky, Cabin Fever + Wyoming Wave, Schoolhouse Route, Triptych drainage, Smooth Emerald Milkshake (probably the best chance for avy danger). It's up to you to assess any slide danger for yourself though. Generally the approaches and walking between pitches is enough for you to get a sense for how much snow is there and what it's like. I'm sure you already know that Colorado or Utah 3-4 is generally easier than Cody 3-4. www.coldfear.com has conditions, ratings and route lengths.


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 15, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

Many thanks Kevin, contatced the fest staff and sounds like avy hazzard is low as usual, and I wasn't aware of the sandbagged nature of the routes up there so that is something I definitely appreciate knowning before getting on the routes. at the same time it makes me that much more excited to go explore up there, not going to lie I've been feeling Utah 3's are pretty soft.... cheers!


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By Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Feb 15, 2013

Scott:

Avy hazard is generally pretty low due in Cody (rarely much snow on the ground), but be aware of considerable rock fall danger at the base of a lot of pitches, particularly if it's very windy or sunny on the benches above you. Try not to get geared up in exposed areas (judge by the amount of rock on the ground and pick a safe(r) spot).

Also keep an eye out for rocks coming down while climbing pitches (ask your belayer to pay attention and give warnings).
Rock fall can be particularly bad at the base of the fist pitch of Mean Green for example.

Re. the sandbagged reputation of the area: I think it is more the facts that there is relatively little traffic on most routes and that nighttime temperatures can be very low. This makes for hard, brittle, and virgin ice a lot of the time. No Ouray-style hooking here, but real, old-fashioned ice climbing!

Oh, and be bear- and moose-aware on the approaches... ;-)
Have fun! The North Fork is a very special place.


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By Jason Killgore
From boulder, co
Feb 15, 2013

no way cody is sandbagged. this is totally the same grade 4 as spiral staircase:


mean green crux


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By Kevin Craig
Feb 15, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Dang! MG is thin this year. Yeah, I've had friends insist that pitch is 5 after following it, even in fatter conditions. Just have to know where you're climbing (rock or ice)! As an update, I just saw a photo of the South Fork from today, and I'd say the avy danger is about as low as it gets. Get after it and have fun!


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By funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Feb 16, 2013

Just a heads up, Rigid Designator no has two horizontal fractures, one at 1/2 height and one at 2/3rd height. May heal up by tomorrow, may not. Be careful.


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By Jon E.
Feb 17, 2013

I left two BD wiregates at the top of silverplume falls, if you happen upon them just leave em be I will be back in the area soon-ish.


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By AaronPugmire
Feb 17, 2013

Does anyone know the conditions on All Mixed Up? Any bata would be good too. thanks.


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By Paul-B
Feb 18, 2013
Flakes of Wrath

Nina GJ wrote:
Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road lately? Is there a little more ice forming on Skylight? THX


I was at Camp Bird yesterday. Skylight is formed up, last part of the 2nd pitch is mixed. Most stuff at Camp Bird is in, thin, and chopped to bits. Skylight is maybe the most chopped and chandeliered. I was going to get on it, but there was quite a line. I did slippery when wet (in, a little bit thin, maybe less chopped than other lines) and Senator Gulch flow (in, fat, but picked out).


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By coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 18, 2013
Indian Creek Climbing

anyone know if chalk creek falls is in?

or agness vaille falls ?


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By Ted Eliason
From Westminster, CO
Feb 18, 2013
Ice Fest 2014

Paul-B wrote:
I was at Camp Bird yesterday. Skylight is formed up, last part of the 2nd pitch is mixed. Most stuff at Camp Bird is in, thin, and chopped to bits. Skylight is maybe the most chopped and chandeliered. I was going to get on it, but there was quite a line. I did slippery when wet (in, a little bit thin, maybe less chopped than other lines) and Senator Gulch flow (in, fat, but picked out).


Only followed P1 on Skylight yesterday but the chockstone at the top was covered making the bottom go at about a (beat out) 4.
Skylight 02-17-13
Skylight 02-17-13


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By ShaneL
From Colorado Springs, Co
Feb 18, 2013
Lower Saddle Grand Teton

coop wrote:
anyone know if chalk creek falls ?



Was in Salida 2 weeks back Agnes was formed up, but a large hole with running water on the right side. Might have better luck on the Faucet.


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By richardd
From Loveland, CO
Feb 18, 2013
Not much climbing in FL.

I saw a nice picture of Castlewood Canyon ice last month. Is it still in?


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By funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Feb 18, 2013

Chalk creek near leadville? If so its beat up but big.


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By sshepher
From Denver, CO
Feb 19, 2013

Anybody see if clear creek canyon has any ice?


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Feb 19, 2013

Nilch in clear creek


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By Dylan Evans
From Boulder, Colorado
Feb 20, 2013

Anyone know about other longs/meeker stuff than the Dutchman? Particularly interested in Alexander's. Any officers gulch beta would be sweet too. Thanks.


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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Feb 20, 2013
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.

S Denny wrote:
Nilch in clear creek


I found about 20 feet of ice bouldering there on Monday.


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 20, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

Went up to attempt Martha yesterday, did not finish it though. IMO it was OUT...snow sucked (what snow there was anyway), no ice, pretty much just a pain in the A**.

However, Columbine Falls and the ice flows to the climbers left of Columbine Falls are all IN and pretty fat. There is a good WI4 line on the left most side of Columbine as well as some easier WI3 lines as you move right. Plenty of places to hook and "kinda" stepped out, but still in great condition. I'd say this is the best moderate ice in the park now, but who knows that's just my opinion. I posted pictures under a conditions report for Columbine Falls as well.

I'll add some pictures to this in a second, standby.

Cheers,

Seth


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By Rodney P
From Ouray,CO
Feb 21, 2013

seth0687 wrote:
I'll add some pictures to this in a second, standby. Cheers, Seth



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By Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Feb 21, 2013

mountainproject.com/v/columbine-falls/105747273


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 21, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

>

First off, that was awesome Second, I passed out so my apologizes.

Here you go:

Peacock Pool area.
Peacock Pool area.



Columbine Falls and the flow to climber's left.
Columbine Falls and the flow to climber's left.



Columbine Falls close up.
Columbine Falls close up.



Long's Peak area.
Long's Peak area.



Meeker area.
Meeker area.



Martha.
Martha.


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By Rodney P
From Ouray,CO
Feb 21, 2013

Sweet photos, thanks Seth!!:)


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