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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Feb 8, 2013
The Ice Park in Lake City is FAT. Not picked out at all. Hardly anybody around.

Lake City Ice Park, 2/7/2013.
Lake City Ice Park, 2/7/2013.


Also walked up to the Sherman climb in Sherman. Some serious avalanche chunder at the the bottom but the ice is in FAT. Horrible breakable crust on the approach but there is a boot pack for now. I would think twice about getting on this after any fresh snow.

The Sherman Climb, 2/8/2013.
The Sherman Climb, 2/8/2013.
luke Lydiard
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Joined Jan 16, 2011
123 points
Feb 8, 2013
Flakes of Wrath
Anyone seen Total Abandon recently?

Also, I am curious about the approach from Manitou. On the MP post it says see R&I #85 for the approach from Manitou....I don't have that issue. Anyone care to give the beta?
Paul-B
Joined Mar 26, 2011
115 points
Feb 8, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
No with the lack of snow and moisture I saw up there last week with the cold temps that Pikes has had I would say it will be much more mixed. It didn't come in super thick to begin with this year.

The approach from Manitou is probably to take the Barr Trail to the Bottomless Pit which is like 12 miles. You could take the Cog about halfway but it's still quite a slog. Only been desperate enough to hike up there once in the winter

On another note does anyone think ice will form on the First Flatiron this weekend if the rainy/snowy forecast with cold nights is accurate? Or will it not be cold enough for long enough before the sun comes out again?
jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2008
250 points
Administrator
Feb 8, 2013
Paul, you got me curious, so reading R&I #85, it talks about the $6/person toll road and the $8-10\/person cog railroad. It doesn't seem to mention other options. It does discuss Wet & Wild, 400', 5.8 WI5.

It's been warm on rock for a while, so it'll have to be a perfect timing kind of thing on the 1st Flatiron if we get a big, wet dump, it seems to me.
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,191 points
Feb 8, 2013
Flakes of Wrath
Thanks. That was quick. Hope for a wet dump. I have not climbed the silk road, but I would love to get on it if it would form up soon. Paul-B
Joined Mar 26, 2011
115 points
Feb 8, 2013
J- with this forecast, I would think Tuesday early AM is your best bet for Silk Rd
forecast.weather.gov/MapClick....
MikeS
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 1, 2006
30 points
Feb 8, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.
Total Abandon looked pretty thick as of last weekend. The hike up Barr is huge, about 25miles RT. I've climbed TA from the Crags and it's not bad. About 5 miles each way. phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Joined Feb 23, 2005
674 points
Feb 8, 2013
seth0687 wrote:
Went up to Hidden Falls in Wild Basin yesterday. The ice was great, but the main flow was the steepest that I've ever scene it. I'm gonna go on a limb and say WI4+ maybe even WI5. As you move up on the upper pillar the ice gets pretty thin, chandeliered, and hollow. The small flow just left of the main flow was in FAT and offers a good way up for a TR if you so choose. The mixed lines to the right appeared to be "IN" but are way above my abilities so take it for what it's worth.


Was up there 2 days ago. Met a couple of guys who were very nice. The climb was pretty wet, drippy in the middle. The holes seen in the picture are now small caves with some fun overhanging pulls. Overall its great, a fairly stout lead, but good feet. Walk up/off is mostly dirt. Almost to small this year for more than one party at a time. Approach is cake with the road open so far in. Hiked in in a T-shirt. Crazy for Feb.

WI5 mini pillar to the right is fun, but the lower half is chandeliery. Pumpy, but fun. Get it on a weekday, a weekend up there would be no fun sitting around.

mountainproject.com/v/10798283... (seth0687's picture)
Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Feb 8, 2013
in the middle of the book end. looking down into h...
Climbed total abandonment this sunday the crux pitch was a lot fatter than other tr's the 3 rd a t little scrachy all in all its in wi4-m4 Scott Matz
From Loveland, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2008
538 points
Feb 8, 2013
Thrill is Gone
Cornett Falls in Telluride climbs nice. Bridalveil had great hero sticks from bottom to top, with nice belay caves and tunnels.
Cornett Falls.
Cornett Falls.


Cornett 2.
Cornett 2.


Bridalveil starting second pitch from first pitch ...
Bridalveil starting second pitch from first pitch belay cave.
ozman
From CO / NM
Joined Jan 10, 2011
552 points
Feb 9, 2013
The Beginning of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater ...
Well shit Paul, I stand corrected, sorry. Would not have guessed that with the super dry weather and what I saw last week in Glen Cove. Any of you TA climbers get a picture by any chance? jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 30, 2008
250 points
Feb 9, 2013
The Face of Uncertainty My First Ice Climb! Spiral...
Vail Conditions update:
-Spiral Staircase is very picked/stepped out and sporting one third the volume of ice it sees in normal years. I would not walk up for this climb alone.
-Secret probation is thin too. Definitely more challenging than previous years.
-The pencil is fat and picked/kicked.
-The Eraser has very thin ground contact and would be better approaching from Quasimoto.
-The Dezi is in good shape. The donkey trail on the left has seen a few periods of drip and fresh ice. The right side is very continuous and only mildly picked/kicked.
-The 7th tenticle is in the best condition of any amphitheater ice. Full conditions.

In general, the ice in Vail is way below baseline. There's no ice on Amphibian, Fatman and Robin is at about half length and cupcake corner is mixier than ever. On the brightside, it is snowing today and the Fang is making a move.

Always optimistic,
Jonathan
419
From Denver
Joined May 26, 2010
705 points
Feb 9, 2013
Alpine toothpick.
phil wortmann wrote:
Total Abandon looked pretty thick as of last weekend. The hike up Barr is huge, about 25miles RT. I've climbed TA from the Crags and it's not bad. About 5 miles each way.

Why would you do that? Heard of the Hero's traverse?
England
From ?
Joined Aug 26, 2008
281 points
Feb 9, 2013
Shredded by the Center Route.
Yes England, ive been up there a time or two. I was responding to Paul's question. You still have to do the hero when approaching from the Crags. The road isn't always open, and it allows for a bigger training day. phil wortmann
From Colorado Springs, Co.
Joined Feb 23, 2005
674 points
Feb 10, 2013
Has anybody been up Camp Bird Road lately? Is there a little more ice forming on Skylight?
THX
Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Joined Dec 30, 2012
15 points
Feb 11, 2013
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP...
Is anyone else thinking that with all of the snow and cold temps they've been getting in the high country over the last week things will fatten up a bit again?

Hopefully heading out tomorrow, just not sure to what. I'll be sure to report anything good!
Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2009
46 points
Feb 11, 2013
Climbed skylight on 2/01/13. First pitch was good. No need to lay back on the chock stone as the ice formed over the crack.
Second pitch ended right below the rock bulge so a v thread
Was needed for rap. Pretty tight climbing at the top. Swings were restricted by the chimney. Great fun though!
All other climbs in that area were very wet and it was cold.
matt babiash
From Wichita Kansas
Joined Jan 4, 2010
0 points
Feb 11, 2013
Tony T. wrote:
Is anyone else thinking that with all of the snow and cold temps they've been getting in the high country over the last week things will fatten up a bit again? Hopefully heading out tomorrow, just not sure to what. I'll be sure to report anything good!


Not much snow in the Summit area. Copper reported only 3" in the last 72 hours...
Just Solo
From Colorado Springs
Joined Nov 13, 2003
23 points
Feb 11, 2013
Red River Gorge.
I know this is more of a "conditions" thread, but figured I'd try posting this here.

Looking for a regular ice climbing partner in Summit County. I have my own rope and some gear to set up top ropes. Can also lead belay and then follow. I live in Keystone and have my own vehicle so short trips are also an option. PM if interested.

Thanks,

Arik
Arik
From Fairplay, CO
Joined Mar 31, 2009
20 points
Feb 13, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Conditions on Martha???? Anyone been up recently, dry..mixed..snow..ice?

Thanks,

Seth
seth0687
From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points
Feb 14, 2013
Does any one know conditions on the flying dutchman or conditions on northwest face of thatchtop? AaronPugmire
Joined Mar 8, 2012
16 points
Feb 14, 2013
2nd pitch of Womb.
The flying dutchman is in shape, however I have been waiting for the avy danger to decrease a little to get on it and it should be in all spring. Martha as of a couple weeks ago was pure rock, no ice. Though these recent snows may have created more. michael voth
From Ft. Collins, CO
Joined Feb 23, 2012
18 points
Feb 14, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial
I'll be doing a last minute trip into cody for the fest, anyone have any azy hazzard beta paired route reccomendations for once I get there, looking for WI3-4 multi, the more pitches the better. scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Joined Feb 1, 2011
86 points
Feb 15, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Honestly I haven't been paying attention to recent snow up there (though I know they've gotten some), but it typically takes a LOT of snow in a short period of time to create significant avy danger in the South Fork - it does happen on occasion though. Mostly it blows away or melts. Just ask around the 'Fest and the locals will give you the scoop. For long 3-4 ish routes...Mean Green, High on Boulder, Spyin and Flying, Main Vein (probably have to walk around the first pitch which can be a bit tricky, Cabin Fever + Wyoming Wave, Schoolhouse Route, Triptych drainage, Smooth Emerald Milkshake (probably the best chance for avy danger). It's up to you to assess any slide danger for yourself though. Generally the approaches and walking between pitches is enough for you to get a sense for how much snow is there and what it's like. I'm sure you already know that Colorado or Utah 3-4 is generally easier than Cody 3-4. coldfear.com has conditions, ratings and route lengths. Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Feb 15, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial
Many thanks Kevin, contatced the fest staff and sounds like avy hazzard is low as usual, and I wasn't aware of the sandbagged nature of the routes up there so that is something I definitely appreciate knowning before getting on the routes. at the same time it makes me that much more excited to go explore up there, not going to lie I've been feeling Utah 3's are pretty soft.... cheers! scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Joined Feb 1, 2011
86 points


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