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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Jan 30, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Went up to Hidden Falls in Wild Basin yesterday. The ice was great, but the main flow was the steepest that I've ever scene it. I'm gonna go on a limb and say WI4+ maybe even WI5. As you move up on the upper pillar the ice gets pretty thin, chandeliered, and hollow. The small flow just left of the main flow was in FAT and offers a good way up for a TR if you so choose. The mixed lines to the right appeared to be "IN" but are way above my abilities so take it for what it's worth.


Hidden Falls-main flow.
Hidden Falls-main flow.


Hidden Falls from afar.
Hidden Falls from afar.


Hidden Falls from afar 2.
Hidden Falls from afar 2.


Small flow just left of Hidden Falls-FAT.
Small flow just left of Hidden Falls-FAT.


Longs from CO 7.
Longs from CO 7.

FLAG
By Portwood
From Your moms house last night
Jan 30, 2013
Me
Climbed alexanders chimney on 26jan13, pretty dry making for more mixed and some "blob sticking" the more exposed pitches.

FLAG
By Portwood
From Your moms house last night
Jan 30, 2013
Me
brain freeze?

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By Drew McLean
From Colorado
Jan 30, 2013
Summit shot
Portwood wrote:
brain freeze?


Or any other routes of the same aspect up there?

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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 1, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
rmnp updates anyone???

I was thinking black lake or west gully but im open to whatever's in...

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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 3, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Got out to the park today but ultimately ended up turning back after hopelessly post holing up to the crypt. Oh well, so it goes. There's always scotch lol.
The Crypt, 2/3/13.
The Crypt, 2/3/13.


Deep Freeze on 2/3/13 from afar.
Deep Freeze on 2/3/13 from afar.


Unknown ice near Deep Freeze zoomed in, 2/3/13.
Unknown ice near Deep Freeze zoomed in, 2/3/13.

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By A.P.Lee
From Boulder, CO
Feb 4, 2013
Went to lincoln falls yesterday, conditions are awesome. Main flow right and the pillars aren't doing to well, but everything to the left is huge, plenty of great ice.

...also, found a screw there yesterday morning, tell me what kind and where you might have lost it and its yours.

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By Shameless Shaemus
Feb 4, 2013
Humped into Black Lake yesterday. Doinked around at Jewel Lake overflow on the way. Got to Black Lake too late for W. Gully (partner had to catch a flight) so we climbed this flow/mini-pillars thing right of Black Lake Slabs. Seems like a separate climb that I haven't seen in before, named route? someone had been on it. Good short WI4 pillars. Slabs are in REALLY FAT with a lot of cool options. West Gully looked a bit lean/sublimated and the Stoneman/Black Curtain area was really thin...bummer. The stuff on the left slabs below Black Lake is in pretty good and could make for some decent bouldering/short solos or beginner leads.
West Gully, 2/4/13.
West Gully, 2/4/13.


Further right from W. Gully...Reflections?
Further right from W. Gully...Reflections?


Stoneman area....
Stoneman area....


Anyone know if this is a named route?
Anyone know if this is a named route?


Closer view...Black Lake Slabs Pillar?
Closer view...Black Lake Slabs Pillar?


Rest ledge between two short pillar/steeper flows....
Rest ledge between two short pillar/steeper flows....

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By luke Lydiard
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 4, 2013
Hiked in to check No Thoroughfare Falls 2/3/2013.

No Thoroughfare Falls in Colorado National Monument:

No Thouroghfare Falls, 2/3/2013.
No Thouroghfare Falls, 2/3/2013.

Doesn't look like it will form this year.

FLAG
By luke Lydiard
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Feb 4, 2013
Checked out Train Route in Cimarron on 2/3/2013. Climb 5.17 in the Jack Roberts book.

Train Route, 2/3/2013.
Train Route, 2/3/2013.


The bottom of the curtain just touched down and didn't look like it would hold so we didn't climb it. The rest of the pitch was 2-4 inches thick with some pockets of snow behind the ice. Looks as if it just formed after the last snow. Not a lot of snow in the small bowl above to add moisture to the flow.

We also walked a couple of minutes down the road to the dam and looked at what we think is Derailed. Climb 5.18 in the Roberts. There was a maybe 20 meter blob/slab to the lookers left of the actual dam. Getting to this would require climbing around a razor wire covered fence with some pretty serious no trespassing signs on it. Definitely not worth it. I'm going to cross this one out of the book.

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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Feb 4, 2013
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
Well folks, this is getting kinda sad methinks.

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By Dougald MacDonald
Feb 4, 2013
Shameless Shaemus wrote:
Got to Black Lake too late for W. Gully (partner had to catch a flight) so we climbed this flow/mini-pillars thing right of Black Lake Slabs. Seems like a separate climb that I haven't seen in before, named route? someone had been on it. Good short WI4 pillars.


Greg Sievers and partner did that nice steep climb at Black Lake a couple of weeks ago. He had never seen it appear before, and it's not in any of the photos of this area. But of course that doesn't mean it's never been done before!

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By Dougald MacDonald
Feb 4, 2013
The Moffatt Tunnel ice (north facing) was good this weekend, with a bit more ice than usual (probably because of less snow at the bottom!) and the opportunity to set up fun dry-tooling top-ropes on either side. It's still a short, overcrowded smidgeon of ice, but it's better than usual. Someone's been trying to farm more ice, and although there seems to be good potential for it, the new stuff that started to form is brittle and unclimbable.

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By Shameless Shaemus
Feb 4, 2013
Thanks Dougald...was a nice option for the day. Wondering if there are some other "named" routes or lines up on the ridge and slabs below Black Lake? I guess one is Reflections? Seems like there are more flows there this year, some stuff up high and one good long slab that's frozen over. Thanks again.

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By Spencer Dries
From North Chicago, IL
Feb 4, 2013
Leading at duncans
Shameless Shaemus

That is not Relfections. See-

mountainproject.com/v/reflecti...

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By Shameless Shaemus
Feb 4, 2013
Yeah man, was talking about the ice flows below Black Lake which I believe one of them is Reflections per description. The route we did is right of Black Lake Slabs.

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By Matt Klick
Feb 5, 2013
Out for a walk with me good pals
Hidden Falls of Glenwood Canyon is in pretty fat, if SUPER slushy and wet on P1. Good screws can be found, with some discerning eyes, amid the plated weirdness. FYI: we ran into Union Pacific security. He was stern, but reasonable, and let us quickly scamper over the tracks and up the hill, but a party a little further back was scuttled (I'm not sure why, other than maybe they still had more tracks to cross?). I recommend we be courteous and discrete, and hope for the best - this could get bad, as there is no other good way other than using the tracks right-of-way to some degree....

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By bgleason
From Denver, CO
Feb 5, 2013
Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??

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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 5, 2013
Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Anything recent on Martha or the longs pk circ in general?

Thanks,

Seth

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Feb 5, 2013
Bocan
bgleason wrote:
Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??


Looked "decent" when I drove by this past weekend.

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By Portwood
From Your moms house last night
Feb 5, 2013
Me
seth0687 wrote:
Anything recent on Martha or the longs pk circ in general? Thanks, Seth


couple climbed it two weeks ago and said it was super dry, dont know what is looks like after the new snow last week.

Also, Alexanders was climeable but pretty dry in the thinner spots. Darkstar and Dreamweaver looked like they should be holding ice and there is deffinantly ice in the loft. Doesn't look like smears will come in.

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By Scotty Nelson
From Boulder
Feb 7, 2013
Post- Greenwood/Locke, Mt Temple, Canda
Does anyone know what conditions are like in Vail?

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By logan johnson
From West Copper, Co
Feb 7, 2013
Flakey Pull Roof v5
^Given the time of year, not great.

Pretty much everything free standing except for the Des and the Pencil is out.
Firehouse Right has 2 or 3 leadable lines, the left only has one. Pitkin and Pumphouse are in but not near as fat as they should be.
Haven't been up to spiral but it looks kinda hacked out and acrappy from the highway.

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By Baumer
From Boulder, CO
Feb 7, 2013
Easy Lieback
bgleason wrote:
Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??


I climbed there on Monday. It was my first time there so I don't have any point of comparison to past seasons, but there were three lines to be climbed with decent ice. I'm guessing this is typical given the south-facing aspect, but by 11am it was already getting excessively soft and wet, so we bailed. Cold weather would be good...

FLAG
 
By bgleason
From Denver, CO
Feb 8, 2013
Awesome. Thanks for the update. That's really helpful!

FLAG


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