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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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By "H"
From Manitou Springs
Jan 22, 2013
Axes glistening in the sun

Anyone been down by Stairway Heaven/Euraka? What's it like?


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By Buff Johnson
Jan 22, 2013
smiley face

It's got hills, a road, a shitter, some bushes, rock piles, rednecks, and a desert fox.


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By jleining
Jan 22, 2013

"H" wrote:
Anyone been down by Stairway Heaven/Euraka? What's it like?


Stairway to Heaven on 1/17.
Stairway to Heaven on 1/17.


H, Check your email


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Jan 23, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

Anyone been up hidden falls (rmnp) or silver plume?

Thanks,

Seth


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By Martin Barnett
Jan 23, 2013

Does anybody know if you can still drive down South Mineral Creek road.


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By Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Jan 23, 2013
Beagle

Martin Barnett wrote:
Does anybody know if you can still drive down South Mineral Creek road.

Definitely not.


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By Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Jan 23, 2013
Beagle

Jamie Jones wrote:
Fifty two degrees in The San Juans, estimated 6oo people in the ice park each day this weekend, even worst than the Festival. Poor ruined Colorado.

600 people in the ice park? I don't think so... And if it is true, that's great because that's 600 less people doing the AWESOME routes that are in right now all around the ice park.


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By Roger from Ouray
Jan 23, 2013

Beagle wrote:
600 people in the ice park? I don't think so... And if it is true, that's great because that's 600 less people doing the AWESOME routes that are in right now all around the ice park.


The only question is ...just how twisted are those people doing those AWESOME routes without any ice?


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By clay meier
Jan 23, 2013
Thats Me

Is gandolfs really out? I have been down there several times at this time of the year and its usually super fat. Also I climbed the curecanti monster recently. Its thin but climbable completely on ice with the exception of a small mixed section on p1 that i suspect is iced up by now.


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By Igor T
Jan 23, 2013

Silver Plume conditions? Anyone?????


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By J Antin
From Denver, CO
Jan 23, 2013
First morning at Indian Creek!!!

Beagle wrote:
600 people in the ice park? I don't think so... And if it is true, that's great because that's 600 less people doing the AWESOME routes that are in right now all around the ice park.


FYI, that's a low ball number, and from a reliable source.


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By mthomas
Jan 23, 2013

For those who enjoy ice cragging silverplume is in great condition. It's getting just cold enough at night to really shape up. Picture from 1/18.


Silverplume on a busy day
Silverplume on a busy day


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By nick.laws
Jan 23, 2013

Any beta on Lincoln Falls area?


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By Martin Barnett
Jan 23, 2013

Does anybody know if Fat City is in good shape?


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By lukespangenburg
Jan 24, 2013

Martin Barnett wrote:
Does anybody know if Fat City is in good shape?


Fat City and Tempered by Fire are in great shape as of this past Monday
Enjoy


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By A.P.Lee
From Boulder, CO
Jan 24, 2013

Given how little snow is around, does anyone know if dream weaver is in?


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By Highlander
From Ouray, CO
Jan 24, 2013

Ouray area update: Was in Eureka today, Stairway's first pitch was thin, route was crowded even on a weekday. Whorehouse is in but a little wet, 2nd pitch really thin, watch where you step. Camp Bird road climbs are thin and wet, really have not come in well this season. Only a couple of the local Ouray climbs are really in fat right now, and those are crowded and heavily guided. Essentially it has been warm, plus every route has been heavily traveled and beat up.


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By Alan Stevens
From Big Lake, AK
Jan 24, 2013
glacier tan

Stopped by Moffatt Tunnel today. Ice was pretty chopped but still fairly thick with good climbing. Climber's ice was wet and delicate. Approach did not require snow showes

Short but sweet.
Short but sweet.


Looking down.
Looking down.


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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Jan 24, 2013
Profile Icon

Last week I was on Horsetail on 550. Every pitch was in, upper pitch was fairly wet. Little unconsolidated snow at a good belay at the top of the first pitch. Bear Creek Falls was VERY thin and running water near the top. Had a team get to about 20 ft below the road. Next day the next team that climbed ended up 20 feet below that. Really not safe. (This was last Thurs.)

Camp Bird: Slip Sliding Away was the fattest, Chockstone Chimney not horrible. Skylight not in. Choppos is definitely very thin and incredibly mixed. Lots of drytooling in Posers and near Chockstone. Ribbon is NOT in at all across the valley. Same with Bird Brain.


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By Martin Barnett
Jan 24, 2013

lukespangenburg wrote:
Fat City and Tempered by Fire are in great shape as of this past Monday Enjoy


Thanks. Do you know about goldrush.


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By Nina GJ
From Grand Junction
Jan 24, 2013

Hey, Goldrush is not in at all, climbed Tempered by fire yesterday. It was wet but good, just to warm out there...


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By Tony T.
From Denver, CO
Jan 25, 2013
Getting up the Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak, RMNP.

Was up at Officer's Gulch two days ago, and it was honestly too warm. We were up on Tony's Nightmare and it was more like Tony's Wet Dream. It was fun, but definitely not a top-roping leave your screws in the ice kind of day. It should fatten up quite nicely once it cools down again up there.


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By Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Jan 25, 2013
Lamb's Slide

Tony T. wrote:
... We were up on Tony's Nightmare and it was more like Tony's Wet Dream.


Guess you'd be the one to know! :-)

Thanks for the report -- looks like a lot of ice at least, and avy danger looks nonexistent.


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By whittlesticks
From Nederland
Jan 26, 2013
hanging at the bridger jacks campground



Climbed all mixed up in RMNP last week. The climb is still in good shape with hooks up most of climb. There is a little mandatory mixed at end of first pitch. Also the start of pitch 2 involves some interesting traversing around steep pillars which are thin and hollow. Bring plenty of 10-13cm screws for the lead as the route is pretty thin right now. Avi danger should be low as there is not much snow up there right now. Go get it before it falls off!

All Mixed Up.
All Mixed Up.


Last pitch of ice on All Mixed Up.
Last pitch of ice on All Mixed Up.


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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Jan 27, 2013
Imaginate

Anyone been on Alexander's lately? Is there good ice? How are avy conditions in the longs cirque area?

EDIT: After digging around on Eli's website I came to the conclusion that Alexander's was out (too dry) and that upper kieners and the diamond have more avalanche danger than other areas of the park.

Eli's jan23 conditions report


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