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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Jan 14, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Dry tooling near the shroud.
Eldo Love wrote:
anything in clear creek yet??? its close. silly. and great for night ice i guess.

I drove up CC last week and it isn't even starting.
Jeremy Espinoza
From Denver, CO
Joined Jun 8, 2011
30 points
Jan 14, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo:
Dave Cummings wrote:
How are the longer routes in RMNP doing like AMU and West Gully? Anyone been up there?

West Gully is in-- but as of 1/6/13-- leaner than I've ever seen it. Most consolidated ice route (p1/p2) to access the lower angle slabs was to the far right. Left would have been hairy, very thin, wet and chandaliered. Slabs up top are plenty fat.
Carolyn Davidson
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 2, 2008
25 points
Jan 14, 2013
Hey Walter, I have your two Wild Country non-locking carabiners from Hidden Falls (RMNP) last week. You were climbing with Justin and Heidi. I can get them back to you if you're in/around Boulder.

I guided All Mixed Up on Wednesday and it's still in great shape. The easiest lines are pretty hacked up but there's plenty of good, blue ice to climb if you deviate from the path of least resistance. We lost a screw; the clients swore they didn't drop anything so I think they just forgot to clean one en route. Obviously I'd be psyched to get it back if anyone finds it (BD express screw, should have a yellow mark on it or say AC somewhere on the head). The edges of the route are beginning to delaminate and sound pretty hollow and the route is getting thinner all the time BUT still good climbing. There's a sizable windslab atop the regular 3rd pitch and, again, above the final pitch. Both were unreactive to our weight as well as a party of 3 on Saturday but with the recent snow/loading that could've changed.

There were 18 people at Jewel Lake/Overflow ice on Saturday before we showed up. It's notoriety as an easy-access TR crag has apparently grown. The far left ice is still a bit wet but overall the place looks much thinner than usual and is, of course, well-pocketed. Damn, it was cold this weekend.
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 19, 2008
207 points
Jan 14, 2013
Climbed stairway to heaven and second gulley. Stairway was in great shape, a little thin on the first pitch and the top two WI3 pitches were a little wet. The descent is still good although a new storm would put it into some sketchy avalanche terrain.

Lastly, sorry to say, one of my tools came off the pack somewhere on the walk off. If any one finds it (in the spring?) please let me is one of the new generation quarks with black tape around the shaft...thanks...
Brian Stefanovic
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jun 25, 2010
2 points
Jan 15, 2013
Went up to Glenwood Falls after work, fairly fat, good trail to base. First pitch is pretty low grade, probably 2+ to the shelf. Ice at base was very water logged, up higher it was brittle. "Unknown" off to climbers right looks good too. Kind of sad to see some higher temps on their way... gonna have to stay off this one in the sun.

Rock Climbing Photo: Glenwood Falls, 12/14/2013.
Glenwood Falls, 12/14/2013.
Joined Oct 23, 2012
10 points
Jan 15, 2013
It's a cool time to explore Blue Mesa ice. With the reservoir being frozen over there is no need for trespassing on private land to reach certain climbs.

Chipeta: IN
Blue Balls: OUT
Blue Mesa Smear: IN (can approach from base of Chipeta)
Monster: Very Thin
Real Blue Creek: ? (could probably hike up creek from the Needle)
Gandalfs: OUT for season
Shadowfax: ? - OUT for season, most likely

Rock Climbing Photo: Chipeta Falls.
Chipeta Falls.

Rock Climbing Photo: Curecanti Needle.
Curecanti Needle.

Rock Climbing Photo: Curecanti Monster in very thin condition.
Curecanti Monster in very thin condition.
Joined Aug 12, 2010
544 points
Jan 15, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: The front yard
Jeremy Espinoza wrote:
I drove up CC last week and it isn't even starting.

wow, probably wont even happen this year then... Thank you for making the trip. saved me one.
Eldo Love
From Mancos,CO
Joined Sep 9, 2012
125 points
Jan 16, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: First morning at Indian Creek!!!
@Vic - great stuff! I love your more 'exploratory' posts.

Now to contradict myself - how are the classics on Camp Bird Road looking?

And to contribute a little: [Vail 1-13-2013]

Here is Spiral Staircase. It was my first time up there and it seemed pretty beefy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spiral Staircase - Fat & Hacked.
Spiral Staircase - Fat & Hacked.

The Pencil also seemed to be in fat conditions, with a pretty chandelierd and hollow start.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pencil - looking good!
The Pencil - looking good!

The Rigid Designator had a very tall spray cone, so be prepared to climb more onion skin than usual. The climb itself was pretty hacked out, and the left side up high was thin compared to past years.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Rigid Designator, 1/12/2013.
The Rigid Designator, 1/12/2013.
J Antin
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2009
1,070 points
Jan 16, 2013
For metro ice, as of 1/15/12, Castlewood Canyon has a decent amount of ice in the Cherry Creek Falls area. A decent amount of WI2 ice, bits of WI3 & 4- ice. Descent in requires a short rap or downclimb. Licorice Stick is dry.

Rock Climbing Photo: Courtesy of Eric Chrisman.
Courtesy of Eric Chrisman.
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,515 points
Jan 20, 2013
Martha is fun right now, but there is a little less ice and snow than normal. Ben Collett
Joined Mar 15, 2006
1,231 points
Jan 20, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...
Ben did you bring up any screws with you on Martha? Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,649 points
Jan 21, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Anyone have pictures or a conditions report on the Ice around Eureka/Silverton? Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
277 points
Jan 21, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: in the middle of the book end. looking down into h...
Yea Silverton was good most routs have been picked out , hot temps wet climbs most routes r in and really good climbed high way to hell Saturday excellent avys still present but low danger until it snows again south facing routes r slowly deteriorating Scott Matz
From Loveland, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2008
538 points
Jan 21, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Profile Icon

I have some friends who did Whorehouse Hoses on Friday. I'll see if I can work up a few pix. Apparently with all the lowish avy danger, it was in just fine. They did 3 long pitches. Start early - the sun has been making some stuff a bit scary up there.

Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Joined Nov 23, 2012
12 points
Jan 21, 2013
Does anyone have any info or pics of ice at Rifle? Marble Falls is fat right now, with very low risk of falling fat as I've ever seen it. Redstone Pillar is non-existent. tom bohanon
Joined Jan 24, 2006
26 points
Jan 21, 2013
haven't been out to Rifle yet but word on the street is everything is in fatty fat S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Jan 21, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of the Black Wall pitch on the Direct Exum
November-like conditions up in RMNP
Rock Climbing Photo: All Mixed Up from Mill's Lake 1/20/13.
All Mixed Up from Mill's Lake 1/20/13.

Rock Climbing Photo: West Gully Area 1/20/13
West Gully Area 1/20/13

Rock Climbing Photo: Black Lake Slabs and the "talus Trough" ...
Black Lake Slabs and the "talus Trough" behind 1/20/13.

Rock Climbing Photo: Deborah Couloir needs more snow.
Deborah Couloir needs more snow.
Ted Eliason
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jun 16, 2009
548 points
Jan 21, 2013
Just climbed West Gully on friday (1/18) and it was quite lean through the crux pitch making the climb feel harder than WI4 for just a moment, but very enjoyable and safe all the while! Hard snow below, and no snow above makes the climb a safe and fast endeavour at the moment! Michael E.
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined May 8, 2011
27 points
Jan 21, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: At the BRC
Castlewood Canyon near the falls very nice today.

Boulder Canyon at Castle Rock looked bare from a drive-by yesterday.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
257 points
Jan 22, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Rrrrr
I heard the same thing. Glad I missed out on the entirety of that shit show. Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,504 points
Jan 22, 2013
what are ice conditions like in Rifle State Park? robert clarke
Joined Oct 23, 2006
0 points
Jan 22, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Axes glistening in the sun
Anyone been down by Stairway Heaven/Euraka? What's it like? "H"
From Manitou Springs
Joined Feb 13, 2006
59 points
Jan 22, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Rrrrr
It's got hills, a road, a shitter, some bushes, rock piles, rednecks, and a desert fox. Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,504 points
Jan 22, 2013
"H" wrote:
Anyone been down by Stairway Heaven/Euraka? What's it like?

Rock Climbing Photo: Stairway to Heaven on 1/17.
Stairway to Heaven on 1/17.

H, Check your email
Joined Apr 28, 2007
22 points
Jan 23, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the chockstone on Alexander's chimney
Anyone been up hidden falls (rmnp) or silver plume?


From Fort Collins
Joined Nov 20, 2007
392 points

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