How are the longer routes in RMNP doing like AMU and West Gully? Anyone been up there?

anything in clear creek yet??? its close. silly. and great for night ice i guess.

AMU is in. Not sure about W Gully, but would imagine it's also in. Could still see the ice pitch in the NW Gully of Thatchtop, looking good.

Hey Walter, I have your two Wild Country non-locking carabiners from Hidden Falls (RMNP) last week. You were climbing with Justin and Heidi. I can get them back to you if you're in/around Boulder.

I guided All Mixed Up on Wednesday and it's still in great shape. The easiest lines are pretty hacked up but there's plenty of good, blue ice to climb if you deviate from the path of least resistance. We lost a screw; the clients swore they didn't drop anything so I think they just forgot to clean one en route. Obviously I'd be psyched to get it back if anyone finds it (BD express screw, should have a yellow mark on it or say AC somewhere on the head). The edges of the route are beginning to delaminate and sound pretty hollow and the route is getting thinner all the time BUT still good climbing. There's a sizable windslab atop the regular 3rd pitch and, again, above the final pitch. Both were unreactive to our weight as well as a party of 3 on Saturday but with the recent snow/loading that could've changed.

There were 18 people at Jewel Lake/Overflow ice on Saturday before we showed up. It's notoriety as an easy-access TR crag has apparently grown. The far left ice is still a bit wet but overall the place looks much thinner than usual and is, of course, well-pocketed. Damn, it was cold this weekend.

Climbed stairway to heaven and second gulley. Stairway was in great shape, a little thin on the first pitch and the top two WI3 pitches were a little wet. The descent is still good although a new storm would put it into some sketchy avalanche terrain.

Lastly, sorry to say, one of my tools came off the pack somewhere on the walk off. If any one finds it (in the spring?) please let me know...it is one of the new generation quarks with black tape around the shaft...thanks...

Went up to Glenwood Falls after work, fairly fat, good trail to base. First pitch is pretty low grade, probably 2+ to the shelf. Ice at base was very water logged, up higher it was brittle. "Unknown" off to climbers right looks good too. Kind of sad to see some higher temps on their way... gonna have to stay off this one in the sun.

Glenwood Falls, 12/14/2013. Submitted By: robrobrobrob on Jan 15, 2013

It's a cool time to explore Blue Mesa ice. With the reservoir being frozen over there is no need for trespassing on private land to reach certain climbs.

Chipeta: IN
Blue Balls: OUT
Blue Mesa Smear: IN (can approach from base of Chipeta)
Monster: Very Thin
Real Blue Creek: ? (could probably hike up creek from the Needle)
Gandalfs: OUT for season
Shadowfax: ? - OUT for season, most likely

Chipeta Falls. Submitted By: Vic on Jan 15, 2013

Curecanti Needle. Submitted By: Vic on Jan 15, 2013

Curecanti Monster in very thin condition. Submitted By: Vic on Jan 15, 2013

@Vic - great stuff! I love your more 'exploratory' posts.

Now to contradict myself - how are the classics on Camp Bird Road looking?


And to contribute a little: [Vail 1-13-2013]

Here is Spiral Staircase. It was my first time up there and it seemed pretty beefy.

Spiral Staircase - Fat & Hacked. Submitted By: J Antin on Jan 16, 2013

The Pencil - looking good! Submitted By: J Antin on Jan 16, 2013

The Rigid Designator, 1/12/2013. Submitted By: J Antin on Jan 16, 2013

For metro ice, as of 1/15/12, Castlewood Canyon has a decent amount of ice in the Cherry Creek Falls area. A decent amount of WI2 ice, bits of WI3 & 4- ice. Descent in requires a short rap or downclimb. Licorice Stick is dry.

Courtesy of Eric Chrisman. Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 18, 2013

Martha is fun right now, but there is a little less ice and snow than normal.

Ben did you bring up any screws with you on Martha?

Anyone have pictures or a conditions report on the Ice around Eureka/Silverton?

Yea Silverton was good most routs have been picked out , hot temps wet climbs most routes r in and really good climbed high way to hell Saturday excellent avys still present but low danger until it snows again south facing routes r slowly deteriorating

Mooner,

I have some friends who did Whorehouse Hoses on Friday. I'll see if I can work up a few pix. Apparently with all the lowish avy danger, it was in just fine. They did 3 long pitches. Start early - the sun has been making some stuff a bit scary up there.

Cale

Does anyone have any info or pics of ice at Rifle? Marble Falls is fat right now, with very low risk of falling through....as fat as I've ever seen it. Redstone Pillar is non-existent.

haven't been out to Rifle yet but word on the street is everything is in fatty fat

November-like conditions up in RMNP

All Mixed Up from Mill's Lake 1/20/13. Submitted By: Ted Eliason on Jan 21, 2013

West Gully Area 1/20/13 Submitted By: Ted Eliason on Jan 21, 2013

Black Lake Slabs and the "talus Trough" behind 1/20/13. Submitted By: Ted Eliason on Jan 21, 2013

Deborah Couloir needs more snow. Submitted By: Ted Eliason on Jan 21, 2013

Just climbed West Gully on friday (1/18) and it was quite lean through the crux pitch making the climb feel harder than WI4 for just a moment, but very enjoyable and safe all the while! Hard snow below, and no snow above makes the climb a safe and fast endeavour at the moment!

Castlewood Canyon near the falls very nice today.

Boulder Canyon at Castle Rock looked bare from a drive-by yesterday.

Fifty two degrees in The San Juans, estimated 6oo people in the
ice park each day this weekend, even worst than the Festival. Poor
ruined Colorado.

I heard the same thing. Glad I missed out on the entirety of that shit show.

what are ice conditions like in Rifle State Park?