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The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Dec 26, 2011
Vail - The Fang is no more. Hope no one was hurt. funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Dec 26, 2011
damn! that sucks! S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Joined Sep 25, 2008
24 points
Dec 26, 2011
As of late last week, CCC had no ice. Nick Dolecek
From Denver, Colorado
Joined Jan 27, 2007
16 points
Dec 26, 2011
Imaginate
Climbed the 1st flatiron on Saturday morning. There was water flowing behind most of the delaminated ice on every pitch, but the crux pillar by the small tree was in but delicate and there were a few other very short curtains higher on the route that were in.

It may have all fallen down by now with the warm weather, but I didn't have time to post until now. As usual, even when it is "in", it is very thin and without much protection so be careful. We brought 3 screws, a set of camalots, and some nuts.
David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
350 points
Dec 26, 2011
Elizabeth Riley on Peanuts, Eldo
Anyone know if the ice is in at Rifle? Elizabeth Riley
From Boulder, CO
Joined May 10, 2010
35 points
Dec 27, 2011
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Bridalveil is in reasonable shape and was totally dry today. The spray cone is way up the climb this year and lots of eggshell ice down low. Pro is tricky in spots, but then, when isn't it on this climb? The line we took went at about 5/6- (maybe 5+)/4+ There's a v-thread at the top now in the amazingly thick yet crystal-clear ice. Far left side line looks quite steep/sustained right now. Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Dec 27, 2011
Mike on West Gully RMNP
It was windy in the Park, but not too crowded. The ice was brittle, but screws were solid. Here are some photos at Loch Vale.
Alan following Crystal Meth.
Alan following Crystal Meth.


Martin following Mixed Feelings.
Martin following Mixed Feelings.


Crystal Meth.
Crystal Meth.


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Mike Walley
From Louisville, CO
Joined Sep 11, 2010
98 points
Dec 27, 2011
My navigator keeps me from getting lost
as of 12/26, CCC still has virtually no ice Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Joined Jul 17, 2006
274 points
Dec 27, 2011
Anyone been to Rifle? funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Dec 27, 2011
Beagle
Elizabeth Riley wrote:
Anyone know if the ice is in at Rifle?

I was in Rifle last week and final curtain was climbable, but pretty much all the pillars were spraying water and mostly unconsolidated icicles. And now it's been sunny and even warmer?
Topping out in the Octagon.
Topping out in the Octagon.
Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Joined Nov 7, 2005
1,065 points
Dec 29, 2011
Upper Parunuweap Canyon
Any info on current conditions at Silverton/Eureka (specifically Stairway to Heaven)? I saw ozman's update from early Dec.

thanks, Michelle
fossana
From Sin City & Bishop
Joined Apr 30, 2006
12,081 points
Dec 29, 2011
fossana wrote:
Any info on current conditions at Silverton/Eureka (specifically Stairway to Heaven)? I saw ozman's update from early Dec. thanks, Michelle

It slid yesterday, good sign! avalanche.state.co.us/obs/obs_...
I heard it was good on Monday but the temps have been really warm in Ouray the last few days, not sure about Silverton. There is a report on STH here from the 22nd ourayiceclimbing.blogspot.com/
Rodney P
From Ouray,CO
Joined Oct 7, 2011
40 points
Dec 29, 2011
Imaginate
How is the ice park at Ouray? I've never been, is it pretty much guaranteed to have nice ice since they farm it? David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
350 points
Dec 29, 2011
Upper Parunuweap Canyon
Thanks, Rodney [edit] and GR! fossana
From Sin City & Bishop
Joined Apr 30, 2006
12,081 points
Dec 29, 2011
high e
The skiing and climbing in silverton and ouray better be good! Ive been waiting years to have the money to make the trip out, and i finally am. I'll be there from the 5th to the 11th cms829
Joined Aug 16, 2011
126 points
Dec 29, 2011
Dow Williams, 2011
David Appelhans wrote:
How is the ice park at Ouray? I've never been, is it pretty much guaranteed to have nice ice since they farm it?


Yes, tons.

RE: Silverton...on the 26th, Whorehouse Hoses, Stairway to Heaven, Highway to Hell and Hoser's Highway all looked to be in decent shape from a climbing perspective.

I need help on this photo...my wife and I climbed this pillar below the lower bridge, among all the comp mixed routes....full pillar, fully protectable without clipping bolts...curious what they call it when it forms fully...closest to WI 5 feel I have ever had in the park really...
Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Joined Mar 13, 2006
196 points
Dec 29, 2011
Garrett Gillest at Zappa Wall Escalante Canyon, ag...
Culminator is the route in the picture, link below to MP page, awesome route

mountainproject.com/v/culminat...
Kevin Gillest
From Arvada, CO
Joined Dec 26, 2003
2,139 points
Dec 29, 2011
Dow Williams, 2011
thanks Kevin Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Joined Mar 13, 2006
196 points
Dec 29, 2011
Silverton
Heard Stairway slid twice I guess, but is in great shape.

Hoser's is in, bring some rock gear to get over the chockstone below main pillar. We rapped and left a v-thread at the top, there is a fixed LA with a biner above the pillar and slung a block to get down from the chocksone. It is in pretty reasonable WI5 condition.

Whorehose is super fat! Goes no problem

Goldrush is in pretty fun.

the gulley's are fat and not holding too much snow.

have been to mineral yet.

Camp Bird
The ribbon is in and awesome, a bit thin at the bottom

Bird Brain is in great shape maybe M5ish.

Telluride
Ames is in! really fun ice from bottom to top

Bridal Veil is in but really dry and plan on sending a lot of ice down on your belayer.
GR Johnson
Joined Jan 15, 2010
111 points
Dec 30, 2011
Its been warm here in the hills, yesterday Eagle was in the 50's, night above freezing. Lots of shrinkage in Vail. Strangely, Glenwood was a bit chillier...

Be careful out there.
funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Dec 31, 2011
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
FYI, a big slide came down across the valley from the Skylight area outside of Ouray late in the afternoon today (approx. 3PM). It came down the deep gully to climber's right of the routes known as "The Racing Stripes," was quite large and lasted much more than a minute. It had been warm and sunny all day and wind transport was obvious at ridgetop level. Aspect of those slopes is NW. Might want to factor this into consideration if planning other climbs on that side of the valley, especially the Ribbon. Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
Dec 31, 2011
Last night in Vail it only just dipped below freezing - any news on what it looks like? Be careful. funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Joined Nov 21, 2011
4 points
Dec 31, 2011
ice time is the right time
funkyicemonkey wrote:
Last night in Vail it only just dipped below freezing - any news on what it looks like? Be careful.

It's a super fat year for Vail, was there yesterday (at the Firehouse).. More ice than usual on most of the routes. The warm days has melted snow allowing for the water to drip down into the climbs and the freezing nights have set the ice up really well. Best time to lead is in the morning when the pillars are secure.
icic-jess
From Breckenfridge
Joined Oct 20, 2009
118 points
Dec 31, 2011
Found a set of keys for Toyota with yakima rack keys on the key ring. The keys were found at East Firehouse Falls in East Vail. We moved the keys to the trailhead and tied them to a post at the parking area. Hope whoever lost them reads this and recovers their keys. ;) Brendan
From Golden, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2006
27 points
Dec 31, 2011
801.
funkyicemonkey wrote:
Its been warm here in the hills, yesterday Eagle was in the 50's, night above freezing. Lots of shrinkage in Vail. Strangely, Glenwood was a bit chillier... Be careful out there.



Hmm, lots of 'shrinkage' eh? I've been climbing the last 5 days straight and continue to watch things GROW! I've never seen Vail so FAT in all the years I've climbed here. For kicks, here is an idea: Amphib has a 10' free hanger pure ice finish, 8mm is almost a pure ice climb, Titties and Beer exits the roof on ice instead of rock, Frigid is being led, and the Fang formed even though it snapped the dental-floos wire that helped it get there. Vail is having an unbelievable year and the warmer temps are having no real negative effects (mostly positive!) on the routes except for super-thin finishes like Dragons Tongue, which are delaming a bit. With the lack of snow and the Holiday, it's a circus up there. Enjoy!
Rob Griz
From Frisco
Joined Feb 3, 2008
1,444 points


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