Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 18 of 19.  <<First   <Prev   16  17  18  19   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Apr 16, 2012
Getting dropped off on a 14er by an Army Blackhawk...
Anyone been up to Chalk Creek (Fremont Pass) lately? Just wondering if there is any ice left at all. Any Leadville folks been up there recently? Dinzy
From Dillon, CO
Joined Nov 9, 2011
11 points
Apr 17, 2012
Those that have been up in the Longs cirque - how's the notch looking? Anyone know how much snow fell up there over the weekend? Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Apr 17, 2012
Getting dropped off on a 14er by an Army Blackhawk...
Chalk Creek still has "ice" and is definitely climb-able. I wouldn't trust screws if leading.

Chalk Creek, 04.16.12.
Chalk Creek, 04.16.12.
Dinzy
From Dillon, CO
Joined Nov 9, 2011
11 points
Apr 17, 2012
Mike on West Gully RMNP
Here is a photo of Longs Peak from today. I just hiked up the trail and didn't climb, but it looks good. Not much snow really anywhere for April. Dreamweaver, Loft, Notch Couloir, Keiners, and Alexander's are probably all good. Let me know if you go.
Long's Peak, 04-17-12.
Long's Peak, 04-17-12.
Mike Walley
From Louisville, CO
Joined Sep 11, 2010
98 points
Apr 17, 2012
Dinzy wrote:
Chalk Creek still has "ice" and is definitely climb-able. I wouldn't trust screws if leading.


If I had that dog on my ass I wouldn't bother with screws either
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,499 points
Apr 18, 2012
Thanks for the photo Mike, any chance the lake is still frozen? Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Apr 18, 2012
Mike on West Gully RMNP
Meeker and Long's on 4-17-12.
Meeker and Long's on 4-17-12.


Nick, Chasm Lake is probably frozen enough, but you can also walk around it too. I hope to go up there this weekend and find out how good the climbs are.
Mike Walley
From Louisville, CO
Joined Sep 11, 2010
98 points
Apr 20, 2012
Mike Walley wrote:
Here is a photo of Longs Peak from today. I just hiked up the trail and didn't climb, but it looks good. Not much snow really anywhere for April. Dreamweaver, Loft, Notch Couloir, Keiners, and Alexander's are probably all good. Let me know if you go.


I was hoping to hit up the Notch this weekend but won't if conditions aren't good. Any idea how much snow fell this week and how it might have effected the Notch?
JonW
Joined Apr 30, 2010
8 points
Apr 20, 2012
Nick Venechuk wrote:
Thanks for the photo Mike, any chance the lake is still frozen?

Even Nymph lake is still frozen as of Wed. Chasm should be golden.

Edit: Up high, last weeks 6-8 inches were not consolidated yet as of Wed. The N facing stuff is still powdery. The S facing stuff at 10.5-12K was soft, and mushy by 10am. Did not support steps before that.
Copperhead
Joined Aug 16, 2011
0 points
Apr 23, 2012
Did the Notch on Saturday, it's in but still wintry snow. Plenty of snow to wait for it to firm up. The lake's frozen, Lambs Slide and Broadway are in good shape. Broadway and the Notch had sections of soft snow but nothing major, not like the deep death hoar that made BC skiing so scary this year. Nick Venechuk
From Golden, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2008
63 points
Apr 30, 2012
I climbed Martha and Dreamweaver yesterday. Martha had nice ice. Dreamweaver is mostly snow. Also last weekend alexander's had little ice and the notch was really nice thanks to the above guy, who punched in steps for us. andy ducomb
From anchorage
Joined Apr 16, 2010
31 points
May 5, 2012
Jones Pk
Lincoln Falls is still very climbable. Starting to get a little slushy/rotten in places... an adze would have been nice for excavating screw placements.

Lincoln Falls, 5-5-2012.
Lincoln Falls, 5-5-2012.



Lincoln Falls, 5-5-2012.
Lincoln Falls, 5-5-2012.
George Barnes
From Westminster, CO
Joined Mar 9, 2008
163 points
May 9, 2012
.
Climbed 'Sheridan inspired' Alexander's/Eighth link up 5-4-12. Still enough ice to stick on lower pitches of Alexander's, crux chimney attention gathering without much ice. We finished on steep direct 'middle' 4th pitch to Broadway (comparable difficulty to left exit, perhaps more sustained), maybe M5+ all dry-tooling.

Continued up Eighth, still some ice on 1st pitch, snow pitches in great shape, P5/6 all dry-tooling along a dry slab (see route comments). Great adventure.
Chris finishes Steep 4th on Alexander's
Chris finishes Steep 4th on Alexander's
Captain America
From Longmont, CO
Joined Oct 12, 2006
230 points
May 12, 2012
Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully...
Some friends and I climbed and skied the Notchtop Couloir and the Right Ptarmigan Finger today. Snow climbing and skiing conditions in the area were great. He had blue skies and were looking down on the tops of the clouds. New snow accumulation from this last storm was pretty minimal, maybe about 2-3 inches over the permanent snow. Most of the south facing rock was completely dry. It would have been a great day to have a sunny warm south facing alpine route all to yourself.

Judging by the surrounding terrain and what views we could get, the following routes are probably in decent-to-good shape:

Hallett Chimney
Quicksilver
Central Buttress on Taylor
Hourglass Couloir
Snow Bench on McHenrys
Y Couloir on Ypsilon
Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 18, 2006
1,635 points
May 28, 2012
Mountain Bandito
Mt. Evans has a lot of good alpine adventures to be had, and the road is open.
Mini Micro and Snorkmaiden's Surprise.
Mini Micro and Snorkmaiden's Surprise.
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,800 points
Jun 1, 2012
Mountain Bandito
Climbed this line on 6/1, just to the left of Snorkmaiden. The route had substantial ice on the entire 700ft route.
Mt. Evans.
Mt. Evans.


And the skiing has been good.

First Apron.
First Apron.
Taylor-B.
From CO & AK
Joined Oct 20, 2009
2,800 points
Jun 6, 2012
We climbed Total Abandon on Pikes Peak on 6/2 and found good, but wet, ice for most of the route. I'll post photos under that route's description.
Total Abandon, 6/2/12.
Total Abandon, 6/2/12.

Any ice in the Park that I have seen lately has fallen down in the last week. Snow is warming up really quickly and getting sloppy by 10am if not before. Some vicious t-storms up high too!
acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 19, 2008
207 points
Jun 6, 2012
Dreamweaver
Anyone been up Flying Dutchman lately?

How's the crux?
Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2011
15 points
Jun 7, 2012
Anyone had a look at hallett chimney, mt taylor, or have any suggestions for a good mixed route in the park right now? k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
Jun 8, 2012
Heard a report yesterday saying that Hallet Chimney looks like disconnected snow sections and that it didn't really look "in." Apparently Dreamweaver is really good right now but melting fast and won't last but another week or maybe two at the most with this heat.

It seems the best mixed conditions are up high, from 13K and up. An overlooked area that has fun mixed climbing is the steeper chimneys to the right of the Cables Route/N. Face of Longs Peak. It's a haul in there, of course, but there are some steep, shaded chimneys and gullys that often hold ice this time of year. I don't think anything's too hard up there, from what I remember, but definitely a lot harder than Dreamweaver and harder than Martha's...more like Alexander's Chimney. But good rock and good climbing and off the beaten path. Might be worth a look...
acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 19, 2008
207 points
Jun 12, 2012
RJN
Anyone know about conditions in the Sangre de Cristos specifically Crestone needle or Kit Carson? Also looking for mixed conditions on Pikes Peak? Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
183 points
Jun 13, 2012
Ryan,

Check out the comments under Total Abandon on Pikes; I climbed that route June 2nd in fairly good conditions. I posted photos there too.

I was just in the Sangre de Cristos and they're much drier than this time last year. The S. Couloir on the Peak still had snow in it; I couldn't see the N. side so can't speak to that but, presumably, there's snow/ice in there too. There seems to be decent ice on a few shaded aspects/features on most 14ers, at least from what I've seen the last two weeks. Ormes Buttress on Blanca is dry but some of the ledges/gullies around the N. Face still hold snow/ice. Overall, the range is pretty dry for mid-June. Hope this helps
acouncell
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 19, 2008
207 points
Jun 13, 2012
RJN
Acouncell thanks exactly what I was looking for. I will post beta if I get to pikes. Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
183 points
Jun 13, 2012
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
Ryan N wrote:
Acouncell thanks exactly what I was looking for. I will post beta if I get to pikes.


The most recent beta is it's wet, really wet. Don't forget the goretex from head to toe. Still fun. It's sad ice can't last all year long in CO.
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
997 points
Jun 13, 2012
RJN
Thanks Noah I'm going to check it out Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
183 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 18 of 19.  <<First   <Prev   16  17  18  19   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!