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10th Division, The 
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion 
Fang Spire 
Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+) 
Lovelace 

The 10th Division 

5.10 C1

   
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Type: Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus: 5.10 C1 [details]
FA: Quinn, Jones (10/88)
Season: Spring and Fall
Submitted By: eDixon on Apr 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

This route is characterized by a significant amount of offwidth climbing, relatively good quality rock, and a high level of adventure. Well worth the effort.

P1 (5.10a) Follow crack up to overhanging tree.
P2 (5.6) 3rd class from the belay lead to easy moves in an alcove.
P3 (5.9) Move left from belay and climb crack to ledge.
P4 (5.10+) Continue up the left overhanging crack in the recess to offwidth and belay.
P5 Continue up crack past a bolt to belay.
P6 (5.10, C1) Continue up crack.
P7 (5.10+) Continue up twin cracks.
P8 (5.7) Continue up crack system to top.


Protection 

  • One set of nuts
  • One each blue & yellow Aliens
  • Two to three each #.5 - #1 Camalots
  • Three to five #2 Camalots
  • Two each #3 - #5 Camalots


Location 

This route is located on the far right side of the East Temple. Begin hiking from pullout on the north side of the road and just before a bridge 1/2 a mile up Mt. Caramel Highway.


Descent 

Scramble east for about 40 minutes to Great Arch Overlook Trail.



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By roxclamantis
Nov 29, 2010

This route was named in honor of my father, Alexander Jones Jr., who won a Silver Star for heroism as a member of the Tenth Mountain Division in WWII in the Italian campaign. They captured over a dozen German officers on a night patrol without firing a single shot.

After Lovelace (aka Fang Wall) I always thought this was the best route I put up on the East Temple (i.e. better than Freezer Burn, Cowboy Bob's, and Uncertain Fates). Some folks have not enjoyed it, which makes me think they got lost on the route.

Who knows. But I recall the quality as well above average. Dig up my original topo in the Park archives to get the best information.