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 ADVANCED
The Particularly Nice One
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10, The 
6, The 

The 10 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Cody Roth or possibly John Duran earlier
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: LeeAB on Mar 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

A classic foothills problem with mostly big moves on OK holds. Even the small moves feel big.

Start with a big shoulder move to the right to gain a good edge. Next reach up into a pretty good but small undercling above your head with your left. Walk your feet up and engage your bicep for all you are worth. Match the undercling for a second to adjust your feet then make a long move up to a sloper at the bottom of a vertical seam. Match and don't let your feet cut. Slap up to a good gaston hold in the crack just above. Top out with realative ease past the flake then back left.

Location 

Starts from a low crack on the left side of the face. The crack runs up and left and the boulder is undercut so your feet start out pretty far to the right.

Protection 

Pad and spotter.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 21, 2009

Hey Sup, gotta grab the undercling with the teeth between your fingers not with them on your fingers, much more comfortable that way.
By suprasoup
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Mar 22, 2009
rating: V9 7C

I figured it was part of the whole "Outdoor Experience", you forget that this poser has only seen plastic holds for the last year or so. I swear that large tooth digging a hole in my left index finger was the only thing that kept me from blowing when I fired for that crappy sloper dish thing.
What's your take on the rating Lee? It didn't feel like a 10 to me, granted I haven't been outside in a long while.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 25, 2009

Sup, I thought the crux was matching the sloper and moving. As far as the rating goes it was as hard as Redrum Sit in the Happies/Bishop which I beleive is considered by most to be 10, also the fact that Chris E. took several at least a few days all be it spread over several years to do it tells me it is pretty hard. Spreading your fingers and blowing it off as part of the "outdoor experience" is just an excuse for not using your feet Sup.
By suprasoup
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Mar 26, 2009
rating: V9 7C

You know me too well:) You'll be surprised to know that I did use my feet on this climb. The reach to the sloper dish thing is pretty far for my height. Not sure where your right foot was but mine was on the right hand sidepull/pinch. The crux was moving off the sloper. The sharp tooth was pretty key cause I probably would have come off when I reached for the sloper, dunno I'll try it again in the next day or so.
You are probably right about the rating if you're comparing it to the red rum sit start. When I climbed it in '04 and again in '05 I'd always been told by the locals that it was V9.
P.S. I've never needed an excuse for my shoddy footwork:)
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 26, 2009

Just because they get dragedup the rock behind you does not mean that they are getting used. Aah the benifit of being able to campus double digit problems. Typically, locals are sandbaggers as they have things ruthlessly wired. Though the starting hold on Redrum has crumbled over the years and I don't know exactly when this occured.