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BETA PHOTO: Vampire Rock from high across Boulder Creek.
The route is the first set of bolts you come to on the face (not the small cave area on the right side), approaching from the west, about 10 feet right of a large mossy crack running up and left. Follow the bolts up; the crux is after the second bolt.
8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A good beginner lead.
Irina Overeem at the crux. The next bolt is up to...
High-stepping on this balancy 5.9-5.10a route.
Stetchin' for that good hold on this 5.9-5.10a rou...
Unnamed climber sails through the opening moves. H...
Nikki floating up That's Weak.
Gino racing to the chains. The baby sitter was no...
|By Mark Ferguson|
Jun 25, 2001
A pretty good route, straight forward 10a. Some good climbs start from the top of this pitch. Refer to Rossiter's book. There is a great, sequential 12a (seemed easier than 12a) straight up from the belay and a strenuous 11c to the right.
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 24, 2001
I don't think that this route deserves the stars, it's mostly just awkward without being interesting. Still, it looks like a much better start for Vampire than the official first pitch.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 31, 2002
Definitely a much better start to 'The Vampire' or 'Crack of Desperation' than the 5.7 trad start (very loose rock). Not a 3-star route either. Mostly awkward.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 8, 2002
Solid stone, well protected, with no move harder than 5.9.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 21, 2003
Fun route. Soft for 10a, but sustained at 5.9. Only route that I have done on Vampire, but looked like it was the cleanest of the base routes. Generous clipping stances.
Would be good approach pitch for upper stuff.
No move harder than 9.
|By Jeff Welch|
From: Thornton, CO
Jun 15, 2008
If you follow the bolt line (rather than climb right, then hand traverse back) I think this line is legit 5.10 and features interesting and not at all awkward climbing.
It is only marred by the line of easier holds off to the right that sucker you in and make for a much more unfulfilling experience.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2008
Agreed, if one follows the bolt line directly, as paralleling the bolt line on the right, this route is harder than 10a, perhaps 5.10 or 5.10c.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
May 8, 2011
Thought this was a very nice long sport route with several interesting moves. If you do veer to the obvious looking easier stuff to your right, of course that lessens the grade. Your choice!