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Vampire Rock
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A.C.E. S 
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Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T,S 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

That's Weak 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1996
Page Views: 2,017
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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Nikki floating up That's Weak.
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Description 

The route is the first set of bolts you come to on the face (not the small cave area on the right side), approaching from the west, about 10 feet right of a large mossy crack running up and left. Follow the bolts up; the crux is after the second bolt.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A good beginner lead.



Photos of That's Weak Slideshow Add Photo
High-stepping on this balancy 5.9-5.10a route.
High-stepping on this balancy 5.9-5.10a route.
Irina Overeem at the crux.  The next bolt is up to the left, but the easiest line climbs up right then traverses back left to the bolt.
Irina Overeem at the crux. The next bolt is up to...
Vampire Rock from high across Boulder Creek.
BETA PHOTO: Vampire Rock from high across Boulder Creek.
Unnamed climber sails through the opening moves. He is reaching what becomes a solid lieback.
Unnamed climber sails through the opening moves. H...
Stetchin' for that good hold on this 5.9-5.10a route.
Stetchin' for that good hold on this 5.9-5.10a rou...
Gino racing to the chains.  The baby sitter was not cheap!
Gino racing to the chains. The baby sitter was no...
Comments on That's Weak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Ferguson
Jun 25, 2001

A pretty good route, straight forward 10a. Some good climbs start from the top of this pitch. Refer to Rossiter's book. There is a great, sequential 12a (seemed easier than 12a) straight up from the belay and a strenuous 11c to the right.

By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 24, 2001

I don't think that this route deserves the stars, it's mostly just awkward without being interesting. Still, it looks like a much better start for Vampire than the official first pitch.

By Anonymous Coward
May 31, 2002

Definitely a much better start to 'The Vampire' or 'Crack of Desperation' than the 5.7 trad start (very loose rock). Not a 3-star route either. Mostly awkward.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 8, 2002

Solid stone, well protected, with no move harder than 5.9.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 21, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route. Soft for 10a, but sustained at 5.9. Only route that I have done on Vampire, but looked like it was the cleanest of the base routes. Generous clipping stances.

Would be good approach pitch for upper stuff.

No move harder than 9.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jun 15, 2008

If you follow the bolt line (rather than climb right, then hand traverse back) I think this line is legit 5.10 and features interesting and not at all awkward climbing.
It is only marred by the line of easier holds off to the right that sucker you in and make for a much more unfulfilling experience.

By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agreed, if one follows the bolt line directly, as paralleling the bolt line on the right, this route is harder than 10a, perhaps 5.10 or 5.10c.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
May 8, 2011

Thought this was a very nice long sport route with several interesting moves. If you do veer to the obvious looking easier stuff to your right, of course that lessens the grade. Your choice!