Climb carefully down low with relatively poor gear to establish in the wide crack. Good gear in the back of the wide crack for the entire climb and make sure you save a couple small cams to protect the bulge up top. I think I used a 0.3 and a yellow alien up top. Protecting the wide crack will be a matter of personal preference.
From the base of Catopia and Hairball, look up left and note the prominent vertical crack on the tower like feature up the hill. The route is up the crack.
The ideal rack would include a #5, doubles of #4 to #1, and singles to 0.3.
Arjun pulling the upper bulge on the FA. Note the ...
|Comments on That Pitch Leila
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 2, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Another bold ground up FA by Arjun! It was hard to tell if the rock was going to be good or poor but Arjun went for it anyway. Getting into the wide crack early in the climb takes a bit of commitment, but then surprisingly good rock and solid edges outside the crack make for a fun climb. The roof at the top looks intimidating but goes really well. Thanks for establishing this line guys!
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Jan 7, 2013
LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the name!!! Great lead, Arjun!