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Chapel Pond Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bob's Knob Standard T 
Empress T 
Greensleeves T 
Regular Route T 
Thanksgiving  T 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 550'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Alpine Club Canada
Page Views: 973
Submitted By: Devin McPhillips on Jul 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Simul climbed the entire route


A moderate slab route that ascends between Empress and the Regular Route. Offers clean, continuous smearing on steeper slabs. Slightly better protection than Empress with more sustained smearing than Regular. Guide books say 5.7 but the smearing seems easy for that grade.


Climb the first two pitches of Empress (start at left-facing corner), then continue straight up for a few pitches, just right of a textured, mossy face to a thick flake forming a right-facing OW. Continue up past the OW. Exit at the top of Bob's Knob. Descend the gully to the right of Bob's Knob (a few rappels are convenient.).


A light rack of mostly small gear. The pink tricam and the red C3 camalot are useful. #9 hex is convenient for the OW flake.

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