The route is located at the highest part of the wall and has three short sections divided by two big ledges. The first section follows the prominent overhanging crack at the highest part of the wall. The second part continues straight up to the second and last ledge. The final section is the shortest and mainly consists of a long move (read: dyno) up to a small shelf. This move is hard to protect, and the Boston Rocks book indicates that the FFA was done by toproping this section. The last section can be made easy by going diagonally up to the left. FA: Sprax at A2, FFA: Zeb Engberg. Rated 5.12 R in Boston Rocks, 2nd edition. Actually, on the first lead Zeb did not TR the final section but did take the easier left hand finish.
It is the prominent crack at the tallest, overhung section of the wall.
Two glue in bolts for anchor and regular trad rack.
From: The Shrew, MA
Oct 25, 2010
Hey, thanks for posting this up. Just a little correction, there is no way this thing is 75 feet tall. There isn't a single climb at The Quarries that is that high. Ha, sadly that would be a contender for the longest climb in Massachusetts if it were that tall!
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Nov 3, 2010
D- you may want to check out Swingles Quarry.
Jun 20, 2012
As of June 2012, the starting holds (launch holds for the dyno plus an angular crimp to the right) on the last section are pretty loose. Knocking on them rang hollow and they visibly move when you pull on them. I ended up going right instead of attempting the dyno to avoid them.