|Left of Ladder
Climb up and right under small overhang and up the crack on the R side of the "alcove" (crux).
Follow the crack as it heads up left, becoming a ramp that meets a corner facing right. At this point, one can choose an easy escape by stepping down and left before climbing straight up, or (original) climb up along the corner to an inverted V overhang, then following a left-slanting crack around the corner (airy) and then up the outside edge of the corner system. Another variation steps R around the inverted V OH and continues up the corner/crack system.
Finding the route from the top:
Walk about 200 yards west of the actual summit. The trail passes beside a knob at the top of a 20' cliff/slab, with a small patch of trees below and between it and the main cliff. TYC tops out on the main cliff below the center of the knob. There is a fixed rappel anchor on a tree to the left.
From below (not recommended): below and just out of sight of the upper ladder, the trail climbs through a steep notch to a level spot before turning up toward the ladder. Cut into the woods on climber's left and walk ~300 yards, cutting up toward the cliffs when the "bench" of land narrows and begins sloping downward.
Start: on top of boulders beneath an inverted V alcove with a small overhang crossing it, making it look like an 8' wide, ragged capital "A".
There is a rappel anchor on a conifer tree ~35' east of the route's top.
Standard Modern trad rack
Under the roof.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Jul 10, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tricky start, then a couple high exposure moves. Lots of fun!
Jul 11, 2010
Try it in a downpour sometime. It was like waterfall climbing. Needless to say I TRed it. Did enjoy it. Need to go back and do it when it is dry.
Aug 7, 2012
Fun interesting moves, but the rock is inferior to much in the SouthEast area (e.g. Black Arches + Diagonal Ramp Wall).
I took a little slide when the sandy surface of the rock sheared off under a frictiony step I took, so I got a "road rash" scrape on my lower leg.
There's another route of similar difficulty and interesting moves (not sure of protection, since we lowered in from the top), a few feet to the northwest (climber's Left) from "Thank You Cindy" -- but in greater need of cleaning.
Rappel access -- see description of how to find rappel entrance from summit trail in Comments under description of "Left of Ladder" sector.
|By Jay Harrison|
Sep 13, 2012
kenr: the route you mention is probably the one known as "Knitel's Route"; it is similar in many regards (e.g. difficulty, exposure) to TYC. In the mid-90s, Neal Knitel dropped by my house after climbing on the summit. Back in those days, the guidebook was pretty ambiguous, particularly for any crags outside the standard KV/HP stuff. Neal said he climbed TYC, but upon my next trip to the ridge a day or so later, I found pro on an as-yet unclimbed (at least recorded as such) line. the gear was fresh, so I surmised Neal had done that, thinking it was TYC. In all likelihood, my supposition is correct. Back then, very few people visited Crane for its rockclimbing potential, so it is unlikely someone else climbed there the same weekend.
At any rate, the other route is dubbed "Knitel's Route", is 5.7, and would be of equal quality to TYC were it scrubbed a bit.
While the summit rock isn't as good for pure "craggin'" as the BAW, the place has its own magic, and serves well for those who want Alpine feel without Alpine length or commitment.