|756 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10 [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, Alex Thayer, 3/06|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||spring thru fall|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Apr 2, 2006|
Alex Thayer follows P1 of Thanatos (5.10, X). Phot...
Thanatos was the opposite of Eros according to Freud- this hypothetical instinct freud said was every man's subconscious drive to death and destruction, lthough modern psychology does not register this on the 16 fundimental motivations of man.
This climb starts up the E-facing (lower left) arete of the Ant-Willie tower.
P1: 5.9 R (5.6x)
Climb pockets and slopers up the arete for about 15 meters, them move slightly right onto the face and continue on pockets. The climbing is about 5.8R and is X-rated at a lower standard (probably 5.6) at least without tricams or a lot of fiddling. We had only a light rack for Woman Of Mt Dreams on this route, so perhaps I could have taken more/better gear. A few decent threads and cams in holes were found that protected a significant amount of climbing, but there were certainly areas with groundfall potential. Move up to lower angle rock and finish on slopers at ~110 feet. You will belay at the base of a set of good cracks on trad gear.
P2: 5.10 R/X
CLimb up the cracks (5.10-) on good gear, staying mostly with the one on the left, although the one on the right provides holds as necessary to climb at the 5.9+/10- level. This is well-protected. Continue up the left crack to its end and climb the face above on sparse and questionable gear for some more considerable distance (5.10, R/X). A good set of nuts and small cams might make this R-rated only, but on the meager rack we had for the FA, the route was X-rated for sure. Edges on plates and puzzle-pieces accounted for most of the holds, but the occasional sloper was used. The route was only lightly cleaned, breaking off edges only as needed to stand, cling, or protect. The route still has potential for breaking holds. Finish the crux of the route as the plates start to run out the wall turns slightly past vertical- mantle onto some last plates and stand at the bottom of a less-than vertical red wall. Work right to the arete and step up and right around into the chimney (5.10 R/X) and up to a ledge with a belay/rap anchor. (3 good nuts tied off on a cordalette)
A third pitch can be done to reach the summit, however, it requires down-climbing back to the lower ledge. From there you can rap to the ground on 2X 70M ropes or get within feet of the ground ( on 2X 60M ropes and hop or scramble down.
To find this route first find the cave on the approach to Inti Wantana. Just left of there, and particularly as viewed from 'the saddle' or 'pass' on the approach to Woman Of Mountain Dreams or Gift of the Wind Gods, just above, one can see a salient buttress just right of this cave. This is what Alex dubbed the 'Anti-Willie' tower. I will let him explain that though...
From the pass, the upper half of the route Thanatos can be seen. It is a crack and face climb up the NE facing aspect of the route.
A standard light rack. Include a healthy set of nuts (down to brass) aliens and tricams- all things we did NOT have.
Alex Thayer follows P2 of 'Thanatos' (5.10, X) on ...
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch of Thanatos (5.10, X) goes up the...