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South Peak - West Face
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The Balle ss Boltchoppers S 
Agony T 
Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 
Back to the Front T 
Banana T 
Black Mamba T 
Blackbird T 
Breakneck T 
Bring on the Nubiles T 
Broken Neck T 
Burn, The T 
Burning Tendons T,S 
Cast of Thousands T 
Casual In The Mind's Eye T 
Clarke's Climb T 
Cockfight T 
Conn's West T 
Cottonmouth - Venom T 
Crispy Critter T 
Critter Crack T 
Crusher Critter T 
Debbie T 
Easy Over T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Front C T 
Gendarme Direct T 
Gendarme South Face, The T 
Gendarme, The T 
Green Wall T 
Gunsight to South Peak T 
Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 
Humphrey's Head T 
Jankowitz-Kamm T 
Le Gourmet T 
Le Gourmet Direct T 
Lox T 
Manual Dexterity T 
Marshall's Madness T 
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 
Monkey See Monkey Do T 
Neck Press T 
Old Ladies Route T 
Old Man's Route T 
Pedro's Problem T 
Pleasant Overhangs T 
Prune T 
Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 
Sidewinder T 
So What T 
Sunshine T 
Thais T 
Thais Direct T 
Tomato T 
Traffic Jam T 
Triple S T 
West Pole T 
West Pole Direct Finish T 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 4,606
Submitted By: John Peterson on Jul 29, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...


This excellent climb ascends the corner just left of Conn's West. It starts in the center of the wall and eventually traverses left into the top of the corner.

P1: climb up the center of this face with no particular line. Aim for base of an obvious chimney. 80', 5.5.

P2: Climb the suprisingly enjoyable chimney. Where it pinches off, step left and continue up the same crack system to a belay alcove. 80', 5.6.

P3: This is the business. I suppose this is a Seneca 5.6 but it had me a lot more gripped than many harder routes. Traverse left on the steep face to the big corner and climb up to a belay above the difficulties. There's plenty of pro but hanging out on the steep face to put it in was definitely exciting. The hardest part for me was finding the easiest line - there's chalk all over the place. I wound up going straight left from the fixed pin above the belay to the corner, ignoring the temptation to climb up prematurely. 50', Seneca 5.6.

P4: up to an obvious weakness, left along the ledge and then up through a tree to the top. 100', 5.4.


Start at the center of the face just left of Conn's West.


Standard Seneca rack

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By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Oct 22, 2007

On P3 you can escape right around the corner to end up on the ledge with the rappel tree and the end of Westpole. I've done the escape a few times to avoid climbing the gully to the summit.
By Mike Phillips
From: Pittsburgh
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

From the belay ledge at the top of P2, you can make it to the gully between the summit and the big flake of the west face in one pitch. I tried this because following the route to the left and into the gully seemed awkward. The rock quality just continues to get worse the higher you go if you go straight up however and, because of this, I would not recommend this. Next time I'll probably try the established escape variation to the climber's right.
By BigRed11
Jun 10, 2013

The second pitch is fantastic and very fun. Be aware that if you choose to do the escape, the final belay ledge is too far around the corner from the belay at the top of pitch 2 to communicate by voice.
By Jeff Klassen
From: Laurel, Maryland
Oct 7, 2013

The chimney variation was a blast for P2. Would recommend.
By Andrew G
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Full value 5.6, for sure. Great variety on this climb. I ran the 3rd pitch to the gully just below the summit for a ~120' pitch and that worked out fine for me. Rope drag was a little bit of an issue, but not too bad. As Mike mentions, the rock quality takes a decided turn toward chossy for the last 20' or so before the summit gully, but the climbing also dials backs to 5.easy and you can work left to better rock.
By Matt Rhodin
From: Lexington, Massachusetts
Mar 15, 2015

starting from the bottom of the chimney you can probably make it to the westpole anchor in one pitch with a 70m rope by taking the escape at the top of pitch 3. When I did the route, I didn't know where I was going so I built an anchor on the sloping ledge at the beginning of the escape (little did I know I was about 30 feet from the top). It would be close, but my follower seemed pretty sure it would go.
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