First time there. Just starting planning. Seeking advice on how to spend 3 weeks. Would love to eat native/get cooking lessons.
Will do at least a week of climbing. Anyone need a partner?
Advice on: areas to seek out for 5.9-10a routes? what to bring--rope or no rope? where to rent gear? security and wifi for laptop for pretending to work--or leave it at home? guide books or services? places to stay? travel modes?
You're about to get bombarded with plenty of advice, but my best advice would be to not miss Chang Mai. Josh Morris is an excellent stuart for the area and can set you up with rides to crazy horse. Better overall experience than Railay/tonsai, which was quickly approaching shithole status back when I was there in 2003. 5.9-10 might be a challenge to find, but always lots of route development going on. Stay inside the city wall if possible. Rope is always beneficial to have. Railay/tonsai is obviously not to be missed, but its a scene for certain. Have a blast!
As Devan said, definitely spend some time up north in chiang mai "the cultural capital of thailand." Awesome city with great climbing nearby (crazy horse buttress). You can rent gear at chiang mai rock climbing adventures (CMRCA) but I would recommend bringing a rope and rack as renting for more than a day or two day will get expensive. You can buy a guidebook for crazy horse here at CMRCA. Its very easy to find wifi in chiang mai but it will be hard to get any work done. Stay at a guesthouse inside the walled old city. Take cooking lessons somewhere in chiang mai.
I would also recommend tonsai/railay, especially since you will be there during low season. incredible climbing right on the beach. stay on tonsai beach with the rest of the climbers unless you want the resort scene over on railay. Buy a guidebook for here at Base Camp Tonsai climbing shop (can rent gear here too). There isn't alot here in the 5.9/10a range so consider going to Koh Phi Phi for more easy routes.
All good advice so far... except March isn't really low season in Southern Thailand... it's just that Dec and Jan are crazy season.
Chiang Mai is great and the climbing scene is way more chill and normal than the south. You'll have a more Thai experience up there but the south is pretty amazing as well, just more like summer camp for climbers (or alcoholics, depending on where you go).
As was said above, Phi Phi is the place to go for 5.10 and below... you'll love the climbing there but the rest of the island has turned into a bit of a shit show.
I left my laptop in a 300THB room all the time ($13USD) so I am guessing you will be safe in a pricier room. Maybe not as safe as a US hotel room, but your call.
Obviously flying in the fastest way up north but also the priciest. Bus is the cheapest and slowest and train between the two. Depends on how valuable your time is. Just know that the seats on the buses are designed for small asian figures, so you won't be very comfortable if you are a big guy like me. Train tracks were flooded last time I was there so I wouldn't know what they are like.
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