Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Mike Baker
Page Views: 21,253 total · 84/month
Shared By: Steve Bartlett on Apr 30, 2003 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is short, kinda silly, and the climbing is not particularly memorable. However, the approach is a nice hike, with great views, the glade/meadow where this feature is located is a very cute little spot, and the feature itself is a ridiculous shape; a penguin with a blindfold. Maybe it's a labrador puppy. it's very friendly anyway.

Approach: The trailhead (GPS 38.8638278, -109.7489889) begins to the west of the main Sunshine wall and slowly ascends a spacious ramp system atop the main wall.  Hike up the ramp and continue up until you summit the highest point of the ridge. Then contour down (north) and around to enter the penguin's garden.  This tower is located at GPS 38°51'17.6"N 109°43'49.5"W  Approach takes about an hour.

The route begins up a short but awkward crack that can be protected by #3 cams. This is allegedly 5.5, in Bjornstad's book. After the crack, move left onto the face.  Above you is a small horizontal crack that can fit a #0.5 cam.  Note that a fall before this point could mean a ground fall.  A few feet above is a piton.  This is the last piece of protection before the anchor, but the following section is the crux of the climb.  Slab climbing with few features.  

https://goo.gl/maps/YrTefMMXjMC2

Protection Suggest change

A handful of quickdraws and a couple 4 to 5-inch cams for the start.

Photos

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