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Indecent Exposure Buttress
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Indecent Exposure 

5.9+

   

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Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 504 page views

Submitted By: susan peplow on Oct 17, 2007


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  • Some areas require a guide.
  • See notes for Hueco Tanks Access MORE INFO >>>

  • Russ after the improbable traverse on the second p...


    Description 

    P1 - Start on stack of boulders and climb up 20 feet to first bolt. Climbing up and left of the arete using good features and slinging hueco's for protection before climbing past 2nd bolt and a small playing card size brass plaque. After the memorial plaque traverse right 15' to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

    P2 - Looking to the right from the ledge it looks as if the arete feature drops into no-mans-land and improbable path. But yes, this is correct. Move up and right from belay to a crack which can be protected using 3" camalot then drop your hands down and move over to a large flake that is towards the front of the buttress. Just above this flake/pillar is a bolt with well featured and amazing climbing ahead to the summit. The guidebook states something about a thin crack, which I don't recall seeing.

    No rap stations so you'll be walking down.


    Location 

    30' right of the Tree route on the left shoulder on Indecent Exposure buttress. Look for large stack of blocks at the start and a bolt out right. Anchor your belayer as a fall getting to the first bolt will probably finish you both off. A large nut should do it.


    Protection 

    2 draws, 2-4 long slings and a medium size cam. P1 has bolted anchors atop a ledge, summit anchor is make/sling your own.



    Photos of Indecent Exposure Slideshow Add Photo
    Somewhere in the 80 ft zone between the 1st & 2nd bolts.  Photo by Russ Walling

    Somewhere in the 80 ft zone between the 1st & 2nd ...

    Memorial plaque on the first pitch

    Memorial plaque on the first pitch

    Russ, bolt clipped, ready to pull up the cool moves to the summit.

    Russ, bolt clipped, ready to pull up the cool move...


    Comments on Indecent Exposure Add Comment
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    By susan peplow
    From: Phx J-Tree
    Oct 17, 2007

    Great exposure and fun climbing. Don't get sucked over towards the arete on the first pitch during it's 100+ run out. The second bolt is located high (like way high) and left of the arete by at least 15-20 feet.

    Coming off of the belay you'll see 3 shiny and newer looking bolts that head up and left. Although enticing, I believe those lead to the headwall .11X variation.

    ~Susan

    By Russ Walling
    From: www.FishProducts.com
    Oct 17, 2007
    rating: 5.9+ PG13

    Cool-Ass-Hell! Go do it... just make sure your second doesn't whip on the traverse or you just might never see her again..... Communication with the leader on the summit will be minimal to non-existant. If you pop, you might be hanging there for a while. Make a plan before you go for the second pitch.