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Trac II
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Baby Face 
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Baby Face 

V7

   

FA: 
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V7 [details]
Views: 702 page views

Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Mar 31, 2006


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Some areas require a guide.

Baby Face, V7, one of the best problems at Hueco. ...


Description 

High start on a right-hand sidepull and a left hand crimp. Move up the arete. Hard for shorter folks.

Description by Monomaniac (added by admin):

This route ascends the NW arete of the Trac II Boulder. Begin with the right hand on the heavily chalked hold on the arete, 7 feet above the ground, and the left hand pinching a crimper sidepull 5 feet above the ground and 4 feet left of the arete (this start is reachy for shorties). Bring the feet up into a high stem, drop your left knee, and move left hand up to the high sidepull crimp. Adjust feet, and bump the left hand to the obvious 1/2" horizontal crimp. Move the right hand up the arete (crux?), then bump. The next pocket out left is relatively jug-like. Hit the lip and mantle easily. Descend the west side.


Location 

Facing DDD, walk left and then turn right into a corridor. Baby Face is the tall arete on the left.


Protection 

crash pads



Photos of Baby Face Slideshow Add Photo
The first of two crux moves, hitting the high 1/2" crimp.  This move is a bit reachy.

The first of two crux moves, hitting the high 1/2"...

Sticking the high crimp is also doable for the height-impaired, though the feet may be a bit different.

Sticking the high crimp is also doable for the hei...

Once you hit the crimp, move the right hand to the lower of two pinches on the arete.  Sticking this pinch is probably the crux move.

Once you hit the crimp, move the right hand to the...

The crux move, going for the pinch.  This thing is hard to latch.

The crux move, going for the pinch. This thing is...


Comments on Baby Face Add Comment
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By Joe Collins
Nov 22, 2007

Are you insane? How can this be anything but 4 stars? A Hueco Tanks top 5.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 22, 2007

She's not insane Joe, she just (probabaly) hasn't done it, like most of the routes she's posted on mp.com

One of my favorite AR route descriptions can be found here: Total Recall

"Hard and reachy with few or no intermediates. I've heard it's quality though."

She gave that one 3 stars.

(PS: I'm sure she's a nice person and everything, but her route descriptions actually detract from MP.com by discouraging those who have something useful to say from posting routes.)

By Joe Collins
Nov 23, 2007

Sure seems a shame that so many classic Hueco problems have such lame postings. No offense intended of course.

By chummer
Feb 6, 2008

I was working this problem once and watched Obe Carrion climb it in his TENNIS SHOES.
Best V7 at Hueco?

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 11, 2008

Here's a better description of Baby Face:

This route ascends the NW arete of the Trac II Boulder. Begin with the right hand on the heavily chalked hold on the arete, 7 feet above the ground, and the left hand pinching a crimper sidepull 5 feet above the ground and 4 feet left of the arete (this start is reachy for shorties). Bring the feet up into a high stem, drop your left knee, and move left hand up to the high sidepull crimp. Adjust feet, and bump the left hand to the obvious 1/2" horizontal crimp. Move the right hand up the arete (crux?), then bump. The next pocket out left is relateively jug-like. Hit the lip and mantle easily. Descend the west side.