Mountain Project: Climbing Texas

Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Jun 23, 2006
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB
Latitude: 30.2875 Longitude: -97.7261
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Description of Texas

James Crump, the "Godfather" of Texas climbing says, "Texas is BIG! Really big". It is faster to drive from Boulder, CO to Salt Lake City, UT than it is to drive from Enchanted Rock, TX to Hueco Tanks, TX. Fortunately for us though, Texas is virtually jam packed with different types of rock. All this rock just happens to be spread throughout a massive State, so we get an undeserved reputation for being flat.

From the Syenite/Ironrock of Hueco Tanks to the Limestone bluffs of the Central Texas Hill Country and the splitter Pink Granite of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area. Even the Dallas area is adjacent to many fine areas. Texas definitely has it all, especially if you count the Western border with Mexico which is just a massive long wall of limestone, largely unexplored. Speaking of Mexico, Texas is a very convenient launch point for many World class climbing destinations both developed and undiscovered in this magnificent Country as well.

Always be prepared for an adventure when climbing in the "Lone Star State". Most of the State is privately owned and negotiations for climbing are not always welcome. A polite attitude can go a long way.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Texas:

Local Flakes V2 Boulder North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder

Nobody Gets Out of Here Alive V2 Boulder North Mountain : The Grenade

Sign of the Cross V3 Boulder North Mountain : Sign of the Cross

T-Bone Shuffle V4 Boulder North Mountain : The Morgue

Dragon Fly V5 Boulder, 15 feet East Mountain : Dragon's Den

Lobsterclaw V5 Boulder North Mountain : The New Meadow

Center El Murray V6 Boulder North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder

Left El Murray V6 Boulder North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder

Baby Face V7 Boulder North Mountain : Trac II

Mushroom Roof V8 Boulder, 15 feet North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder

Cave Crack 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area

Sweat 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch Main Dome : News Wall

Eight Flake 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Middle Crack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary

Owl Crack 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary

Malice In Bucketland 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet North Mountain : Central Wall

Sea of Holes 5.10 R Sport, 2 pitches, 350 feet North Mountain : Central Wall

Window Pain 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet North Mountain : Central Wall

Fear of Flying 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...

Prototype 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Featured Route For Texas

Baby Face, V7, one of the best problems at Hueco. The Double Vision boulder is visible in the meadow beyond the Trac II Boulder.

Baby Face V7 TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : Trac II

High start on a right-hand sidepull and a left hand crimp. Move up the arete. Hard for shorter folks.Description by Monomaniac (added by admin):This route ascends the NW arete of the Trac II Boulder. Begin with the right hand on the heavily chalked hold on the arete, 7 feet above the ground, and the left hand pinching a crimper sidepull 5 feet above the ground and 4 feet left of the arete (this start is reachy for shorties). Bring the fee...[more] Browse More Classics in TX

Photos of Texas

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Silo climbing near Dallas. Photo by Todd Gordon.	"Fear of Flying" at Enchanted Rock	Georgetown Limestone
One of the Triple Cracks at E-Rock	Texas Crash Pad	Little feat 5.9 at Enchanted Rock by sunrise

Comments on Texas

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By SirVato
From: Toyota-rado
Jan 24, 2007

Hueco Tanks In touble??

I got an e-mail from a friend
HERE's THE LINK

By kyber
From: Austin
Sep 29, 2008

killing time: austin google maps of climbing areas:

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=115373301781539628>>>>>

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