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Texas 


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Administrators: Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 23, 2006

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Not the best photo, but this is the view from the ...

Description of Texas 

James Crump, the "Godfather" of Texas climbing says, "Texas is BIG! Really big". It is faster to drive from Boulder, CO to Salt Lake City, UT than it is to drive from Enchanted Rock, TX to Hueco Tanks, TX. Fortunately for us though, Texas is virtually jam packed with different types of rock. All this rock just happens to be spread throughout a massive State, so we get an undeserved reputation for being flat.

From the Syenite/Ironrock of Hueco Tanks to the Limestone bluffs of the Central Texas Hill Country and the splitter Pink Granite of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area. Even the Dallas area is adjacent to many fine areas. Texas definitely has it all, especially if you count the Western border with Mexico which is just a massive long wall of limestone, largely unexplored. Speaking of Mexico, Texas is a very convenient launch point for many World class climbing destinations both developed and undiscovered in this magnificent Country as well.

Always be prepared for an adventure when climbing in the "Lone Star State". Most of the State is privately owned and negotiations for climbing are not always welcome. A polite attitude can go a long way.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Texas:
The Maiden   V0     Boulder, 35 feet   East Mountain : Maiden Gully
The Melon Patch   V0     Boulder   North Mountain : Scary Boulder
Ghetto Simulator   V2     Boulder   North Mountain : Ghetto Simulator
Nobody Here Gets Out Alive   V2     Boulder   North Mountain : The Grenade
Sign of the Cross   V3     Boulder   North Mountain : Sign of the Cross
Moonshine Roof (center)   V4     Boulder, 25 feet   East Mountain : Moonshine Roof
T-Bone Shuffle   V4     Boulder   North Mountain : The Morgue
Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics   V5     Boulder, 15 feet   East Mountain : Dragon's Den
Lobsterclaw, AKA:Mr. Negative   V5     Boulder   North Mountain : The New Meadow
See Spot Run   V6 PG13     Boulder, 25 feet   North Mountain : The Big Time
Baby Face   V7     Boulder   North Mountain : Trac II
Mushroom Roof   V8     Boulder, 15 feet   North Mountain : Mushroom Boulder
Full Service   V10     Boulder   East Mountain : Dragon's Den
Cave Crack   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Cave Crack   5.7     Trad, 100 feet   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Sweat   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : News Wall
Eight Flake   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch   Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Sea of Holes   5.10 R     Sport, 2 pitches, 350 feet   North Mountain : Central Wall
Fear of Flying   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Liposuction   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Reimer's Ranch : Sex Cave
Browse More Classics in Texas


Featured Route For Texas
Unknown climber on "Full Service."

Full Service V10  TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : Dragon's Den
This is the original V10 (the standard for V10, in fact) at Hueco, and is still considered by many to be the best. It was one of the most sought after ticks in the '90's – it still is for that matter.John Sherman envisioned it and had done the stand, Lip Service, when Dale sent the full rig, calling it “Serves You Right.” However, Sherman's name, "Full Service," seems to have stuck....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX


Photos of Texas Slideshow Add Photo
Silo climbing near Dallas. <br />Photo by Todd Gordon.

Silo climbing near Dallas.
Photo by Todd Gordon.


"Fear of Flying" at Enchanted Rock

"Fear of Flying" at Enchanted Rock

Georgetown Limestone

Georgetown Limestone

One of the Triple Cracks at E-Rock

One of the Triple Cracks at E-Rock

Texas Crash Pad

Texas Crash Pad

Little feat 5.9 <br />at Enchanted Rock <br />by sunrise

Little feat 5.9
at Enchanted Rock
by sunrise


Be careful out there!

Be careful out there!

Lance on the Lonesome Wasp boulder in Palo Duro Canyon

Lance on the Lonesome Wasp boulder in Palo Duro Ca...

Leadon Meneke on a deep water solo in my back yard.  Note the hanging ice on the left side.

Leadon Meneke on a deep water solo in my back yard...


Comments on Texas Add Comment
Show which comments
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jan 24, 2007

Hueco Tanks In touble??

I got an e-mail from a friend
HERE's THE LINK

By kyber
From: Portland
Sep 29, 2008

killing time: austin google maps of climbing areas:

maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=115373301781539628600.000>>>

By Corey Morris
From: Ali Al Salem, Kuwait
Aug 25, 2011

Moving to Ft. Hood soon...looking for partners...I'm 39 and have own gear...be great to run into some other climbers.

By Andre
From: Manitou Springs, CO
Sep 16, 2012

Am heading to EP for work a few days and would like to check out Heuco. I heard that the park gate closes at 6 pm. Are there any areas one can still access for climbing or bouldering after 6 pm without issues, if one were to park outside the gate?