While this climb looks chossy and bad, it is not terrible. With traffic it could be an OK route, maybe some retro-bolting as well. Some find the slab behind you close enough to be scary, though you can stem to it up high. The worst part of the route was probably how dusty the holds were due to lack of traffic, so again, maybe with some love this could be a worth while route.
In the gully on the south side of Beer Block, Texas Whine can be found by the ugly homemade hangers.
7 homemade hangers to a 2-bolt anchor
|By Scott Beguin|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 15, 2008
FA was Lucas Laeser and Walt Wehner in September of 1997. It was also originally rated 5.11c.
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 18, 2009
You know, I did this several years ago and while I don't think I'll do it again anytime soon, it was not terrible. With traffic it could be an OK route, maybe some retro-bolting as well though I don't remember being scared by the slab behind me though I did steam to it up high. The worst part of the routewas probably how dusty the holds were due to lack of traffic, so again, maybe with some love this could be a worth while route.
I doubt Wa3lt would mind but best to ask first.
Mar 1, 2009
Dude, if anyone wants to re-bolt this, please feel free. I'm pretty sure I speak for Luke as well when I say that this is the worst route we ever bolted. We really thought the slab behind was going to be ok, and we were broke, so we used those awful angle iron hangers that Luke made in shop class in the early 90s... gah.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 1, 2009
Would be a good route if it weren't for the dirty loose rock, poor bolts, and the potential to hit the slab in a fall up high. A few of the angle iron hangers have been replaced with regular hangers but the studs weren't long enough, so the nuts aren't threaded all the way.
Mar 2, 2010
Definitely add/replace/whatever if it'll make the route safe and enjoyable.