Start out at the parking lot at Engineer Pass and US Hwy 550. Slog up the scree field to gain the prominent left arete. The easier climbing has loose rock, but the steeper sections are great climbing. In general, this is a great route with less loose rock than Lightline and good pro.
See topo. Descent: follow the aspen glade to the west and across the creek bed. Continue along the contour toward the south where you will find an opening with a few sparse trees. Walk straight down to the cliff edge looking for the tip tip of the rappel tree. 4th class down to the tree with rap tat and rap to the north (towards Blue Condition). One 60m rope will get you to the 1st set of bolt anchors that are hard (climber's) left [presently one bolt with chain and an open cold shut]. From here, with use two rope for a 50 m rap, or use a single 60 to get to the next 2 bolt rap station that is slightly to the right with a good ledge and is well protected from rock fall, then rap to the floor. Cruise down the gully. The last steep section offers a single miner's bar rap just below an old mine on skier's right.
A good "nugget" is to take some tricams in the San Juans. No RPs or small gear is needed, but bring the standard rack of cams.
Gary high up on Texas Wheelchair Massacre or at le...
Texas Chainsaw Massacre area.
From: Silverton, CO
Aug 9, 2012
Any chance someone has more in-depth ascent beta other than, "see topo"? I.e. number of pitches, pitch length, etc. Or is it like Wham or the Prow where you just set a belay somewhere around the time you run out of rope? Much appreciated!
Aug 12, 2012
Did this route today...kind of. According to the pic of the route, I believe where it starts to go left we went to high and ended up in some ridiculously loose and sketchy terrain. We ended up aiding a roof with little confidence in our protection as it all looked like loosely stacked blocks. Once above this, the angle eased up quite a bit, and we were able to simul-climb to the top. The higher up you go, the less the rock angles until you are basically scrambling. Also looking at the pic it seems that we joined up with Lightline much lower than the line indicates.
|By Garry Baker|
From: Montrose, CO
Oct 8, 2012
Did this route on 10/8/2012. This is one of those where the leader just belays when he/she runs out of rope. It's good to have a signal worked out as it's virtually impossible to hear each other. There is a prominent black roof that is a good landmark. Go left up the arete, continue left under the black roof, then pretty much straight up to easier ground. The trick here seems to be getting through the headwalls onto ramps. Either power up the headwalls or sneak left or right. The headwalls are short but can be tough.