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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Texas Two-Step 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Levin & Greg Miller, September 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 844
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Sep 26, 2007
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Alex Shainman on the Two Step. Photo: Bob Horan Co...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climbs the nice left-facing corner system just right of Pins and Needles. Climb a shattered left-facing groove past a dead tree to a break. Hand traverse left to sling a huge spike, then step back right and pull the overhang on seemingly good holds (crux). Gain a stance, then up right in the corner (some more 5.10) to a tree.

Good climbing, an exciting (and deceptive) crux, and quality rock. Led ground-up.

The name is a tip-of-the-hat to Wayne, Hank and Kevin for helping get Eldo back on the map!


Location 

Upper West Ridge, Cirque of Cracks. Start at the right side of the alcove, where the trail turns west away from the wall.


Protection 

RPs to 3.5", 48" sling for spike. Rappel 70 feet from a tree with (new) slings and rings.



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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 26, 2007

Nice work, Steve!

By Dougald MacDonald
Sep 28, 2007

Mark Hammond (and I and other folks) TR'd this line a few years back when we were establishing Backslash, which ends at the same tree. But as far as I know, none of us ever had the gumption to lead it, so it's great to see it get done (and ground-up, too!). As I recall, we thought the crux bulge might be harder than 5.10+, but Steve would know best.

Back up the little tree for TR'ing or belaying the second.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Oct 7, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R

Nice, fun climbing and good position, good gear when you have it, challening and somewhat sustained at the grade. A fine addition to this 'sandbag alley' area, thanks for your effort Steve and Greg.

By Mark Hammond
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 15, 2007

Good work Steve and Greg. Really nice climbing. I guess I shouldn't have waited 3 years to get back to lead this, although it would have been a headpoint for me, the onsight is prouder. I was going to call it El Nino and blame the delay on parenthood.
FYI, I gardened a bunch of mud out of the perfect cam (green Alien, I recall) placement right after the crux. It felt 11a to me, but I'm not too strong.
Steve, let's get out and do some book research, I have another line to show you.
Mark