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John leads the first pitch of Texas Longneck.
Start in a small, left-facing dihedral about 40 feet to the right of Five Pack.
Pitch 1) Climb the dihedral and belay on top of a pillar. Move the belay down and right to a good ledge for the next pitch.
Pitch 2) Climb the corner to some good ledges.
Pitch 3) Climb up, then right on face holds until you reach a crack that leads back to the left.
Pitch 4) Continue up the right-facing corner. Exit from the main dihedral system by climbing left on easy friction (this is at the point where Five Pack crosses from left to right into the main dihedral). Belay in a varnished crack at the base of a small knobby corner.
Pitch 5) Go straight up the corner past a bulge to a large white ledge.
Pitch 6) The FA party threaded a path through the overhangs above, but this involved difficult, reachy climbing (maybe 5.10) on unreliable rock with limited protection. A better option looked like climbing up 20 feet, then traversing left to easier terrain and the top.
Descend via Edge of the Sun, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pa...
By john campbell
Sep 22, 2005
It seemed like we slung a lot of chickenheads and other features on this climb for protection. There were some sections of suspect rock on this route. The face climbing on p3 was a little scary for me (have good white rock skills). We started around 9AM and had shade on the bottom of the route, but we caught some sun on the upper sections.