Texas Hold 'Em 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 9 pitches, 1100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | John Rosholt & Bob Conz - June, 1997 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Apr 30, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Texas Hold 'Em
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Description An engaging, awesome route. Each pitch is progressively better making this one of the best climbs in Black Velvet.
Begin 100' right of the start of Epinephrine. Scramble 50' up 5.0 ledges just left of a huge, hanging left-facing dihedral. Belay on a large ledge with lots of bushes.
P1, P2, P3: Step up easily to a small, low roof, traverse left (into the bushes) to pull the roof, then diagonal back right and up the face. Head up and slightly right to an arete-like feature, then continue up the sparsely protected face. Somewhere in there is a bolted anchor, but it is easy to run the rope all the way out by gradually intercepting the large corner (about at it's midpoint), following this up and left to a gear belay on a ledge. Next, continue up to a bulge and a good bolt with a black hanger. Clip this and traverse low and right, or pull directly up past the bolt and traverse right up higher. Bushwhack all the way right, past a thin crack, and belay off of gear below a groove/crack feature. 400', 5.9.
P4: Follow the groove up and left, taking either a slot or a handcrack, to a gear belay on a good ledge. 150', 5.8.
P5: Climb up through the roof with a few wide-hands moves to a stance, then continue up the spectacular, exposed crack system past 3 bolts to a bolted belay on a big ledge just below the top of Texas Tower. 180', 5.10.
P6: There are two left-trending crack systems above. Begin up the right of the two, then traverse to the left crack about 50' up. Follow this to a bolted belay way left of the line. You can link this into the next pitch but the rope drag through the crux is heinous. 100', 5.9. Alternatively, you can stay in the right-hand crack at awesome 5.12 with one move of aid past a small roof midway up. This variation has several bolts and joins up with the following pitch near the end. 140', 5.12.
P7: Perform a bouldery move off the belay, then climb up an easy corner to a bolt. Hand traverse right to a pumpy clip and stand up on a sloping ledge. Follow this up to a small roof (bolt over the roof) and climb up into the left-facing corner above, clipping a couple bolts along the way to a bolted belay below an obvious V-slot. 100', 5.11c.
P8: Climb the V-slot (two bolts protect) to a cruxy traverse/downclimb at a bolt, then more V-slot action up to a bolted belay at a stance. 100', 5.11b.
P9: I won't spoil it all by giving away the last pitch, but from here the route is obvious. If you're rapping, make sure to fix your tag line to the previous belay or you will be dangling in space. Otherwise, continue on with Lone Star. 140', 5.10.
Rappel the route with two ropes.
Protection Single 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 Camalots, Double 0.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (the second #2 and #3's are optional for confident Creek climbers). Wires. A dozen draws/slings. Two ropes.
Mike on Pitch 6 (10a) of Texas Hold Em.
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Mike on pitch 2(5.9) Of Texas Hold Em.
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Mike on pitch 6 (10a) of Texas Hold Em.
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BETA PHOTO: A wet Texas Hold Em, Black Velvet Wall.
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Darren on first pitch (5.8) of Texas Hold Em. phot...
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Darren on the Panhandle Crack, pitch 5 (10d) Texas...
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B. Davidson on the final few moves of the spectacu...
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One of the coolest pitches I've ever climbed! Pitc...
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Fun rappel off of Texas Hold 'Em
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Andy enjoying splitter crack on Texas Hold Em.
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Andy Hansen cleaning up the exposed last pitch of ...
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Ryan Strong on the pitch 6 step across move. Drama...
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Looking up at the last pitch of Texas Hold Em. Spe...
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| Comments on Texas Hold 'Em |
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By David Stowe
May 2, 2008
| If you rap this route and need to fix the tag line to the 2nd to last belay, does that mean if you are climbing with double you should fix one of them to that belay and have the second follow the last pitch on only one rope? |
By Iole
Sep 24, 2008
| Sure Hold ‘em is the most popular poker! As you stated in your words, hold ‘em is still not that easy to master, perhaps it will take quite a long time, 10 years? Or life time?
Visit : Raibet |
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2009
| According to local lore, the pitch 6 "variation" (12b, AO) was the original route put up by Conz and Rosholt. Even after repeated attempts it would not go free for them. Apparently other local hardmen have tried to free this pitch, to no avail. Conz reportedly does not know who is responsible for the pitch 7 (5.11c) variation. This variation to the route, which is now the more commonly attempted way, is accessed by climbing a pitch of the Texas Tower connection, which is pitch 6 in the description above. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 13, 2010
| After reading the route description above, I thought I'd do a little clarifying on the first three pitches.
Start a ways right of Epi's bolted start (actually, start at the 4th class start for Epi if you're familiar with it) just left of a massive dihedral.
Pitch 1: Climb up and right into the dihedral, following it to the roof- just after the roof, traverse left through some bushes to a bolted belay. 120', 5.8ish
Pitch 2: Climb straight up the face, following the path of least resistance, aiming for the dihedral above. Follow the dihedral up for about 50' before clipping a bolt on the right wall of the dihedral, then traversing right through a weakness, then climb straight up to a bolted belay. 160', 5.9ish
Pitch 3: Traverse right to the obvious (and short) blocky dihedral, ascend to the top, then traverse right about 100' to the base of a varnished dihedral and belay. 125', 5.8ish.
From here, you'll be below the right side of the Texas Flake and can ascend almost any of the several routes above- although I believe the other routes may have separate starts. |
By Brady Robinson
Mar 20, 2010
rating: 5.11c
| There is a loose hold at the top of the 7th pitch. It is a good bucket straight down but don't pull out on it or you'll send a rock the size of a large grapefruit to the bottom of the canyon. Great route by the way! |
By blakeherrington
Apr 2, 2011
| Brady's loose hold is gone now, trundled by surprise... |
By nicholas bujak
Oct 9, 2012
| Sandbagged for the grade. Texas hold'em last pitch was hard for 10d and the 10a and 10b pitches on Lonestar above felt much harder than 10-. Maybe I was having a bad day but I TR sent the 11c final pitch on Cloud Tower the next day but could not come close to even attempting to sen the 10d Texas Hold'em pitch. Lonestar was a great linkup. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 7, 2013
rating: 5.11c
| Pretty damn classic route! Josh's rack is right on but I definitely though having the 2nd #2 and #3 Camalots was beneficial. The cruxes are surprisingly deceptive and well protected by fat bolts. Pitch Breakdown: P1, 120' 5.8+ P2, 150' 5.9+ P3, 120' 5.6 P4, 160' 5.8 P5, 180' 5.10c P6, 100' 5.10a P7, 100' 5.11b P8, 90' 5.11c P9, 110' 5.11a
A fantastic route up an intimidatingly steep wall! A RR classic! |
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