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Aiguille de Texas Canyon 
Canyon, The 
Chicken (& Hyperion Slab), The 
Diner, The 
East Face of The Chicken (The Caves) 
Egg , The 
Hoodoo Canyon 
Lower East Side 
Nude Beach 
Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wall) 
Panhandle, The 
Spur, The 
Temple of Ishtar 
Tower of Babel 
Zona Rosa 

Texas Canyon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,600'
Lat, Long: 34.5136, -118.4021 Map
Page Views: 63,659. Good page? (12 likes)   
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 5, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Thanks to Google Maps for excellent service

Description 

Large dome of sandstone conglomerate and nearby outcroppings, pinnacles, hoodoos and boulders located in desert chaparral near Santa Clarita, CA. Land administered by Angeles National Forest.

GUIDEBOOK: Southern California Sport Climbing by Troy Mayr

GEAR: Most routes are bolted and only require quickdraws. A second rope is helpful to more quickly get down from the main formation, especially when a party has more than two climbers. If you are going to adventure into new territory some camming pro or tri-cams and some slings for chicken heads could be useful.

CAUTION
Please wear a helmet when climbing and especially when belaying and rappelling. There are loose bits.

HOW TO GET THERE
Approximately 30 minutes North of LA: Take 5 freeway to the 14 freeway toward Palmdale. Once through Santa Clarita exit Sand Canyon and turn left. Go 2 miles over the hill to Sierra Highway and turn right. Go approximately 5 miles to Rowher Flat OHRV area sign and turn left. Go 2 miles to a gated fire road at the ridge. Follow the fire road on foot 1/4 mile to the obvious crag. (see map at right)

HISTORY:
There are a few fixed pins and old bolts as evidence of climbing earlier than 1990.
Some of the better hard routes were put up prior to 1998 by Loomis, et al. Mayr's 2nd edition.
Several moderate routes establish by Savage 1998-2000. Mayr's 3rd edition.
Various hard & moderate routes put up in the 2000s.
A fire in 2007 closed the area for 18 months, reopening in November 2009. Some new route activity started in and through the winter season of 2010 and 2011 the number of routes has doubled. Ben Chapman and friends let a string of new routes he has posted here. There are many others, particularly over on the West side of Temple of Ishtar.
No point in putting in hardware if you are not going to share the route name and rating with us.
Contributors needed for names and ratings on the many routes not listed on this site.
There are still many quality lines that have not been climbed or are incomplete projects. This area is becoming a major LA climbing area due to close proximity, quality of climbing and wide range of grades available.
It's about time for this area to get it's own guidebook. (Don't look to me.) I would be happy to relinquish my knowledge to anyone with the energy to actually complete such a project.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Texas Canyon:
Pangea Wall   5.7     TR, 100 feet   Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wal...
Humpty Dumpty   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   The Diner
Hyperion   5.7     Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet   The Chicken (& Hyperion Sla...
Acme Top Rope Wall   5.7     Sport, TR, 50 feet   The Canyon
She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   The Chicken (& Hyperion Sla...
Agua Negro   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   The Canyon
Aenea   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Chicken (& Hyperion Sla...
Middle Earth   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   The Canyon
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout)   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   The Canyon
Boneyard   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Egg
Texas Chainsaw Massacre   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Egg
Endymion   5.10b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet   The Chicken (& Hyperion Sla...
Pretty Good at Drinkin' Beer   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   The Chicken (& Hyperion Sla...
The Green Mile   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Egg
Exhilaration   5.11a/b     Sport, 80 feet   The Egg
Browse More Classics in Texas Canyon

Featured Route For Texas Canyon
Pulling down on splendid pockets on "The Green Mile."

The Green Mile 5.10d  CA : Los Angeles County : ... : The Egg
"The Green Mile" climbs the wonderfully pocketed steep face on the far right side of The Egg Cup buttress. It is easily seen to the left as one walks up the trail into the shady Texas Canyon. Climb the face left of the rounded flake on splendid pockets to a high 1st bolt. Continue up and right following the line of pockets to a large inclusion on the left. The pockets end and the face bulges out to yield a committing crux on small fingery edges, then more pockets to a last bolt and a series of a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Texas Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
The east side of the main rock at Texas Canyon features a cave with some hard projects established and a nice bolted route up the right side of the face in that light streak just above the bush. It's a 5.10 something I think.

The east side of the main rock at Texas Canyon fea...

North facing walls of the main formation. XX mark belay anchors. A sample of some routes shown. The Pangea wall is well set up for top rope adventures.

BETA PHOTO: North facing walls of the main formation. XX mark ...

This is a view of the main rock formation in Texas Canyon as seen from the parking area on the road to Rohr Flat OHRV area.

This is a view of the main rock formation in Texas...

Looking up the 2nd pitch of Goldline while on rappel.

Looking up the 2nd pitch of Goldline while on rapp...

West end of the main formation at Texas Canyon. Plenty of virgin territory to climb here. Vestal Virgin is an unfinished project on the West arete. The SW face of the Temple of Ishtar has one bolted route and lots of potential hard routes easily accessed from plentiful anchors on top.

BETA PHOTO: West end of the main formation at Texas Canyon. Pl...

This steep finger crack is located on the north facing side just west of The Canyon.  There is single hangerless bolt at the top. Well placed, looks over 15 years old. It is waiting for a good team of 5.11 pioneers. The route is only 25 feet tall. The crack is deep enough to protect with cams but too soft for lots of hammering falls. I think we should preserve the rock and keep it as a top-rope (opinion). It's about 25-30 feet tall. Looks very worthy.

BETA PHOTO: This steep finger crack is located on the north fa...

This is the east side of the canyon. There are about 7 routes on the east wall and 4 on the west wall, plus The Egg. A great place to set up top ropes after a short lead and hang with friends. The C1 route line in yellow is the primary rappel route for this formation. It is one rope length with a mid way point to double your rope.

BETA PHOTO: This is the east side of the canyon. There are abo...

This overview shows the main formations of Texas Canyon. Thanks to Google Maps for providing satellite image.

BETA PHOTO: This overview shows the main formations of Texas C...

Here is a picture of the summit of the main formation, looking north. Taken from the top of Hyperion Slab. The Canyon area is to the left.

Here is a picture of the summit of the main format...

Tethys route. 2 pitches. Quick draws only.  Anchors on summit to top-rope the Pangea wall on the left. Fun moderate climbing.

BETA PHOTO: Tethys route. 2 pitches. Quick draws only. Anchor...

Spider & Son on Goldline As you can see the Hyperion slab is very low angle. Except for getting over the hump, close to the ground, the whole thing is very low 5th class. I dare say a good climber could do this route with no-hands.

Spider & Son on Goldline As you can see the Hyperi...

There are 2 bolted routes just to the left of Rt C-1 on the east side of the <br />Canyon. This pic is of secont route to the left of C-1 . <br />I would rate it between 5.9 and 5.10 <br /> <br />Photo by Justthemaid

BETA PHOTO: There are 2 bolted routes just to the left of Rt C...

The climber on the left is at the top of Tethys. Climber in the middle nearing the belay on Aenea. Climber on the right is at the belay on Hyperion. Early on a May morning.

The climber on the left is at the top of Tethys. C...

James tossing the rope off on the rap from Skyline.

James tossing the rope off on the rap from Skyline...

Leader clipping the 3rd bolt on "Hyperion."

Leader clipping the 3rd bolt on "Hyperion."

Looking into Texas Canyon from the south, on the approach.

Looking into Texas Canyon from the south, on the a...

Leader working the moves above the 3rd bolt on "Spider's Line (5.5) at Texas Canyon.

Leader working the moves above the 3rd bolt on "Sp...

Negotiating the crux bulge on "Yellow Rose of Texas."

Negotiating the crux bulge on "Yellow Rose of Texa...

Pulling shallow pockets and cobbles at Texas Canyon.

Pulling shallow pockets and cobbles at Texas Canyo...

Pocket pulling at Texas Canyon.

Pocket pulling at Texas Canyon.

Spring Flowers at Texas Canyon

Spring Flowers at Texas Canyon

Texas Canyon wildflowers

Texas Canyon wildflowers

Enjoying stellar pockets in The Canyon at Texas Canyon.

Enjoying stellar pockets in The Canyon at Texas Ca...

The road leading to Texas Canyon from the parking area.

The road leading to Texas Canyon from the parking ...

Spring has brought some beautiful wildflowers to Texas Canyon.

Spring has brought some beautiful wildflowers to T...

The east face of The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab).

The east face of The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab).

Not Again! Trash collected (& recycled) from the approach to Texas Canyon.

Not Again! Trash collected (& recycled) from the a...

The hills are alive with the sound of bees and the beehive is really busy.

The hills are alive with the sound of bees and the...

Sign marking the turn for Rush Canyon Road to Texas Canyon.

Sign marking the turn for Rush Canyon Road to Texa...

Wildflowers on the approach to Texas Canyon.

Wildflowers on the approach to Texas Canyon.

Looking south, into The Canyon and at The Egg at Texas Canyon.

Looking south, into The Canyon and at The Egg at T...

This was the lst bolt on P2 of "Goldline." The standard back-in-the-day, but recently replaced with a new 3/8" X 4" Powers 5-piece bolt.  <br />

This was the lst bolt on P2 of "Goldline." The sta...

Someone has been doing some nice trail work leading up to the canyon. Keep up the good work!

Someone has been doing some nice trail work leadin...

You will get a ticket. However, it is only $5 to pay. Send check in envelope supplied.

BETA PHOTO: You will get a ticket. However, it is only $5 to p...

A quick and rough guide to known routes at this date. You'll need to be adventurous and climb what looks good.

BETA PHOTO: A quick and rough guide to known routes at this da...

Broader sketch of the overall area.

BETA PHOTO: Broader sketch of the overall area.

A beautiful sunset to end a great day climbing at Texas Canyon

A beautiful sunset to end a great day climbing at ...

The Shrike Temple (aka the Panhandle) situated between the east face of The Chicken and the Pangea Wall.

The Shrike Temple (aka the Panhandle) situated bet...

Waiting......

Waiting......

The Texas Canyon formations from the west.

The Texas Canyon formations from the west.

Opuntia species thriving on the slopes near Texas Canyon.

Opuntia species thriving on the slopes near Texas ...

Texas Canyon from the Silver King OHV Trail.

Texas Canyon from the Silver King OHV Trail.

Chilling on Mars.

Chilling on Mars.

Sunset at Texas Canyon. <br />Photo by Jonathan Burnham

Sunset at Texas Canyon.
Photo by Jonathan Burnham


Texas Canyon after sunset.

Texas Canyon after sunset.

A new layer of crushed gravel on Rush Canyon Road courtesy of the USFS has greatly improved the previously rutted, bumpy, and dusty drive to Texas Canyon (The USFS designation is Table Mountain).

A new layer of crushed gravel on Rush Canyon Road ...

Excellent photo by Chris Savage detailing two new routes put up in October 2012 by Matt Oliphant. Names and ratings unknown, but go see for yourself. Nice and shady!

Excellent photo by Chris Savage detailing two new ...

Immaculate Mother on Sierra Highway just south of the turnoff to Texas Canyon.

Immaculate Mother on Sierra Highway just south of ...

Immaculate Mother

Immaculate Mother

Photo by Ms. Eva

Photo by Ms. Eva

Looks like S. Cal climbers are seeking sun drenched rock during the cold snap as the parking area at Texas Canyon has reached capacity.

Looks like S. Cal climbers are seeking sun drenche...

Ramp built by bikers for jumps at Texas Canyon.

Ramp built by bikers for jumps at Texas Canyon.

A distant view of the formations at Texas Canyon from the road that winds its way to the south.

A distant view of the formations at Texas Canyon f...

Hunters returning from shooting quail in the hills surrounding Texas Canyon.

Hunters returning from shooting quail in the hills...

Snow at Texas Canyon after a cold February storm.

Snow at Texas Canyon after a cold February storm.

The north face of The Jukebox.

The north face of The Jukebox.

Chumash Cave.

Chumash Cave.

Young Gopher snake out catching some rays. Looks like with the warm weather our scaley friends have come out to play.

Young Gopher snake out catching some rays. Looks l...

The Parking Lot is Full!!!! Looks like  Texas Canyon is becoming the major LA climbing destination as Spider Savage predicted it would be. 14 cars lined up along Rush Canyon Road.

The Parking Lot is Full!!!! Looks like Texas Cany...

The Halfway House Cafe, the local breakfast & lunch stop,  set up for yet another movie shoot.

The Halfway House Cafe, the local breakfast & lunc...

A Western Pocket Gopher enjoying the spring and the lush vegetation bordering the parking area at Texas Canyon.

A Western Pocket Gopher enjoying the spring and th...

Texas Canyon, on a stormy day, from the south.

Texas Canyon, on a stormy day, from the south.

What are climbers doing with pallets in The Canyon? If they're yours post up so the USFS can return them to you.

What are climbers doing with pallets in The Canyon...

Texas canyon, left of pangea wall...  <br />5.10b ???

Texas canyon, left of pangea wall...
5.10b ???



Comments on Texas Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 12, 2013
By Spider Savage
Jan 20, 2010

There are many routes and projects in this area that have been put up over the years. Please come forward with any route knowledge, area names, route names etc. -Spider

By Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Apr 10, 2010

The name of the road you turn on to get to Texas canyon is Rowher Flats, NOT Rohr Flats.




Cosmic

By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Apr 19, 2010

I just went here for my first time on Sat. Such an awesome place!

By Spider Savage
Oct 14, 2010

Looks like new routes completed this summer on the Temple of Ishtar NW face. Please PM with route names or put them up here yourself.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Jun 17, 2011

The road that accesses Texas Canyon is Rush Canyon Road, and is so marked. The sign at the turnoff from Sierra Highway indicates that the road to the left (Rush Canyon Road) leads to the Rowher Flat OHV Area.

By Spider Savage
Jun 24, 2011

Interested in turning over the administration of this area to another more energetic. I just don't get the time to get out there like I should.

By EnFuego
From: Seal Beach, Ca
Nov 8, 2011

I just made some calls to the Bouquet Canyon Ranger District, and they believe this entire area is closed as it's in an environmentally sensitive area. Does anybody have any additional information regarding closure to the climbing area or it being off limits? Is this area strictly enforced?

By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Nov 12, 2011

Currently, Texas Canyon is NOT posted as closed. Hunters, motorcyclists, dog walkers, mountain bikers, and climbers are frequenting the area. The area was closed for 18 months in 2008/2009 due to the Buckweed Fire, which burned over 2000 acres on October 21, 2007, and destroyed the Santa Clara/Mojave Ranger District Headquarters, but if Texas Canyon was closed the gate at Sierra Highway would be locked and the area would be posted.

By Guy Keesee
Nov 25, 2011

Knot trying to be a jerk, but how come Mt. Project always tells us to use Helmets.......

I don't own one, never needed one.

But to me its just a personal preference, I dont care if you use one.

Whats next?

You going to tell us what shoes to bring???

And I hope that Ben Chapman dude dosen't get this place closed because of his weak, "me first" ethic. Ben you don't need to put up crappy short climbs anymore, OK. We are growing tired of all the dead plants, chopped holds, poor bolt placements etc. that you do. Please take up bowling or some other "sport" cause you ain't a climber.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Nov 27, 2011

Wow, lots and lots of folks out climbing at Texas Canyon today!! Every formation; Hyperion Slab, The Canyon, The Egg, Temple of Ishtar, Tower of Babel, The Diner, and the Pangea Wall, had parties climbing on them. At one point there were 13 cars at the parking area, many with Notices of Non-Compliance adorning their windshields. Awesome weather, with no wind event as predicted, and everyone having a great time.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 28, 2011

Guy you can borrow my old helmet, however it does have a huge hole in the top from where a falling rock hit it...

This is a nice local lead area, and while the rock is not of the highest quality the climbing is fun and engaging, plus the scenery is practically unspoiled. Chris Savage had the good taste to make the moderate Hyperion Slab routes nice and run out, which gives them a distinctly non-Sport climb feel and adds to the spice on the easier second pitches - and as such are probably more for people very steady at long run out 5.7 leads.

I have only climbed a few routes here but I would recommend adjusting the quality star rating system because it seems like we're using some other area (a granite area?) as the datum for the quality ratings, for example I would say that Hyperion is at least 3 stars based upon the surrounding climbs, it has good moves between widely spaced bolts plus a cool hanging belay. Anyway MHO.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 2, 2011

Ryan I have no problem with the hangers being painted, this way they are the same color, or thereabouts, as the rock. I doubt this practice will get Texas Canyon closed, as it's an environmentally sound practice, and demonstrates a certain level of sensitivity.

It is not graffiti.

By Anders H
From: Saugus, CA and Pocatello, ID
Dec 21, 2011

Is there any trad climbing or known trad ascents at Texas Canyon?

By Chisel Less
May 8, 2012

Can't believe my OP was pulled! I will write on here every day!

Went to Texas Canyon a few days ago, Have not been there in a long time, I was appalled at what I saw, Glued on rocks, Drilled out pockets, Chiseled out cracks, bolted 3rd class slabs, destroyed vegetation, Bolts that were spray painted after installation rock, Full squeeze jobs next to classic routes, Etc... Do we really need another chiseled and glued Echo type pile..

Ben C has lost his mind. I am going to talk with the land managers of Bouquet Canyon/Rowher Flats, This outrageous UN-respectful destruction of a natural resource must stop.

If you pull this post it means MT Project condones Chiseling! And is not a true representative of our Sport..

By Chisel Less
May 8, 2012

Please stop pulling my post off! You have no right to..I did not say anything that was not true facts. The truth is hard to take isn't it.
Spider Savage I have a right to speak the truth here..I thought you were a nice guy with some ethics, do you really condone chiseling gluing adding glued holds to the rock? Comment please.

By Spider Savage
May 9, 2012

Yes. Please do not chisel or glue on holds.

The rock here is pretty loose. Gluing to the matrix would be a waste.

Also the epoxy writing the rating of the climb is not good.

Some folks think that since the rock is kind of loose and the area trashed by motorcyclists, shooters and other free-for-all land uses, that anything goes. We need to keep this area clean and natural. Taking a fuss between climbers to the land managers is what will get things shut down. Please maintain high standards and respect for public lands.

PS. I do not have edit power on your posts. The owners of the site will sometimes remove slander. Debates are good. Post your words responsibly and they will help.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
May 9, 2012

Since the closure of Williamson Rock many of the crags in and around the Los Angeles Basin have seen an increase in the number of climbers trying to enjoy our sport. My first visit to Texas Canyon was in the mid-1990s and since that time I have noticed many changes, some positive; like many of the newer well protected routes, the upgrading of old unsafe bolts and anchors, an increase in the number climbers enjoying climbing at Texas Canyon, and some negative; noise, litter, fires, erosion, and loss of vegetation. However, what I have not seen or witnessed is chiseling, chipping, gluing, or the wanten destruction of vegetation. Texas Canyon is a fragile and priceless resource that deserves our care and respect. Please be good stewards and don't expect the land managers or others to do it for you/us. As Spider Savage has indicated maintain high ethical standards and show respect for our public lands.
ps. Echo Cliffs was NEVER shutdown or closed. Four routes were voluntarily removed from the south side of the Grotto, but none of the routes in Louie Anderson's guidebook were ever affected. As a result a positive and collaborative relationship has developed with the rangers and the NPS, to include Adopt-a-Crag days at Echo Cliffs.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Nov 11, 2012

Texas Canyon, the land of many uses. It appears that three BMX'rs have realized the potential for jumps, and with the use of a shovel, a couple sheets of plywood, and piling up rocks they've created numerous ramps and jumps on the slopes between the top of the hill and the canyon. Looks like fun and they're very enthusiastic, but the approach trail has been a bit torn up.

By David Carrera
Feb 12, 2013

I remember some guy having graffiti removel beta over on Supertopo. Try a search of the forum. I do know that on City graffiti you can mess up the removel process if you do it wrong the first time around.
Excuse the nitpic, but it's called the "corridor" not the "canyon", regardless what it says on here.

By David Carrera
Feb 12, 2013

I don't see where Troy calls it a canyon in his Third addition (2004) or the old orange guide. I would doubt Troy has even been there but could be wrong, it's just a guess. I was surprised he included TC in the new edition and when I asked him about it he said he was going to take it out but some guy had, shall I say, "lobbied" him to keep it in. But either way, what does it seem more like to you, a canyon or a corridor?

By David Carrera
Feb 12, 2013

It looks like we're going to have a semantic argument here. Yes the area,in general, is a canyon, like the canyons you listed, and yes, you are correct that Troy called the area Texas Canyon. I am totally not seeing where this specific sub area of Texas Canyon is called "the canyon" in his guides. Are you going to make me get out a dictionary? Dude, look the words up. Have you ever heard of a "canyon" that you could touch both walls at the same time? I don't know, seems like a corridor to me, but since you bring Spider Savage into this as some kind of legitimizing voice here, WTF makes him the arbitrator of any of this? He can name his routes whatever he wants but I fully can't stand the names he has put on the formations.But for the sake of argument, let's accept his word on this one:

Corridor
Corridor
Submitted By: David Carrera on Feb 12, 2013