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Texas Canyon

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Aiguille de Texas Canyon 
Diner, The 
East Face of the Elephant's Head (The Caves) 
Egg , The 
Elephant's Head (& Hyperion Slab), The 
First Corridor , The 
Hatchery, The 
Hoodoo Canyon  
Lower East Side 
Nude Beach 
Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wall) 
Panhandle, The 
Spur, The 
Temple of Ishtar 
Tower of Babel 

Texas Canyon  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,600'
Location: 34.5136, -118.4021 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 117,555
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 5, 2010
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Clear
90° | 60°
Clear
93° | 64°
Clear
89° | 61°
Clear
84° | 53°
Clear
77° | 50°
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Best routes for YOU in this area
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A beautiful sunset to end a great day climbing at ...

Description 

Large dome of sandstone conglomerate and nearby outcroppings, pinnacles, hoodoos and boulders located in desert chaparral near Santa Clarita, CA. Land administered by Angeles National Forest.

GUIDEBOOK: Southern California Sport Climbing by Troy Mayr

GEAR: Most routes are bolted and only require quickdraws. A second rope is helpful to more quickly get down from the main formation, especially when a party has more than two climbers. If you are going to adventure into new territory some camming pro or tri-cams and some slings for chicken heads could be useful.

CAUTION
Please wear a helmet when climbing and especially when belaying and rappelling. There are loose bits.

HOW TO GET THERE
Approximately 30 minutes North of LA: Take 5 freeway to the 14 freeway toward Palmdale. Once through Santa Clarita exit Sand Canyon and turn left. Go 2 miles over the hill to Sierra Highway and turn right. Go approximately 5 miles to Rowher Flat OHRV area sign and turn left. Go 2 miles to a gated fire road at the ridge. Follow the fire road on foot 1/4 mile to the obvious crag. (see map at right)

HISTORY:
There are a few fixed pins and old bolts as evidence of climbing earlier than 1990.
Some of the better hard routes were put up prior to 1998 by Loomis, et al. Mayr's 2nd edition.
Several moderate routes establish by Savage 1998-2000. Mayr's 3rd edition.
Various hard & moderate routes put up in the 2000s.
A fire in 2007 closed the area for 18 months, reopening in November 2009. Some new route activity started in and through the winter season of 2010 and 2011 the number of routes has doubled. Ben Chapman and friends let a string of new routes he has posted here. There are many others, particularly over on the West side of Temple of Ishtar.
No point in putting in hardware if you are not going to share the route name and rating with us.
Contributors needed for names and ratings on the many routes not listed on this site.
There are still many quality lines that have not been climbed or are incomplete projects. This area is becoming a major LA climbing area due to close proximity, quality of climbing and wide range of grades available.
It's about time for this area to get it's own guidebook. (Don't look to me.) I would be happy to relinquish my knowledge to anyone with the energy to actually complete such a project.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.2 miles from here

80 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',42],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',13],['5.7',9],['5.8',9],['5.9',7],['5.10',28],['5.11',13],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Texas Canyon:
Cracker Jacks   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Tower of Babel
Night Shift   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Hatchery
Tethys   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wal...
Hyperion   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   The Elephant's Head (& Hype...
Humpty Dumpty   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Diner
Agua Negro   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   The First Corridor
She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Elephant's Head (& Hype...
Pick Pocket    5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   The First Corridor
Urban Cowboy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Elephant's Head (& Hype...
Middle Earth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   The First Corridor
Sophie's Choice   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The First Corridor
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The First Corridor
Slotterhouse   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Egg
Endymion   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   The Elephant's Head (& Hype...
Before The Storm   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The First Corridor
Texas Chainsaw Massacre   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Egg
Boneyard   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Egg
Pretty Good at Drinkin' Beer   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Elephant's Head (& Hype...
The Green Mile   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Egg
Exhilaration   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   The Egg
Browse More Classics in Texas Canyon

Featured Route For Texas Canyon
Pulling down on splendid pockets on "The Green Mile."

The Green Mile 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : The Egg
"The Green Mile" climbs the wonderfully pocketed steep face on the far right side of The Egg Cup buttress. It is easily seen to the left as one walks up the trail into the shady First Corridor. Climb the face left of the rounded flake on splendid pockets to a high 1st bolt. Continue up and right following the line of pockets to a large inclusion on the left. The pockets end and the face bulges out to yield a committing crux on small fingery edges, then more pockets to a last bolt and a series of...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Texas Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling shallow pockets and cobbles at Texas Canyon.
Pulling shallow pockets and cobbles at Texas Canyo...
The hills are alive with the sound of bees and the beehive is really busy.
The hills are alive with the sound of bees and the...
This was the lst bolt on P2 of "Goldline." The standard back-in-the-day, but recently replaced with a new 3/8" X 4" Powers 5-piece bolt.  <br />
This was the lst bolt on P2 of "Goldline." The sta...
You will get a ticket. However, it is only $5 to pay. Send check in envelope supplied.
BETA PHOTO: You will get a ticket. However, it is only $5 to p...
Wildflowers on the approach to Texas Canyon.
Wildflowers on the approach to Texas Canyon.
Spring has brought some beautiful wildflowers to Texas Canyon.
Spring has brought some beautiful wildflowers to T...
Pocket pulling at Texas Canyon.
Pocket pulling at Texas Canyon.
Sign marking the turn for Rush Canyon Road to Texas Canyon.
Sign marking the turn for Rush Canyon Road to Texa...
The road leading to Texas Canyon from the parking area.
The road leading to Texas Canyon from the parking ...
Sunset at Texas Canyon. <br />Photo by Jonathan Burnham
Sunset at Texas Canyon.
Photo by Jonathan Burnham
Negotiating the crux bulge on "Yellow Rose of Texas."
Negotiating the crux bulge on "Yellow Rose of Texa...
A quick and rough guide to known routes at this date. You'll need to be adventurous and climb what looks good.
BETA PHOTO: A quick and rough guide to known routes at this da...
The east face of The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab).
The east face of The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab).
The climber on the left is at the top of Tethys. Climber in the middle nearing the belay on Aenea. Climber on the right is at the belay on Hyperion. Early on a May morning.
The climber on the left is at the top of Tethys. C...
Spring Flowers at Texas Canyon
Spring Flowers at Texas Canyon
Looking south, into The Canyon and at The Egg at Texas Canyon.
Looking south, into The Canyon and at The Egg at T...
Leader working the moves above the 3rd bolt on "Spider's Line (5.5) at Texas Canyon.
Leader working the moves above the 3rd bolt on "Sp...
Not Again! Trash collected (& recycled) from the approach to Texas Canyon.
Not Again! Trash collected (& recycled) from the a...
Enjoying stellar pockets in The Canyon at Texas Canyon.
Enjoying stellar pockets in The Canyon at Texas Ca...
Chilling on Mars.
Chilling on Mars.
Waiting......
Waiting......
Someone has been doing some nice trail work leading up to the canyon. Keep up the good work!
Someone has been doing some nice trail work leadin...
Snow at Texas Canyon after a cold February storm.
Snow at Texas Canyon after a cold February storm.
The ultimate toddler crag vehicle.
The ultimate toddler crag vehicle.

Show All 86 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Texas Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 21, 2014
By Spider Savage
Jan 20, 2010
There are many routes and projects in this area that have been put up over the years. Please come forward with any route knowledge, area names, route names etc. -Spider
By Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Apr 10, 2010
The name of the road you turn on to get to Texas canyon is Rowher Flats, NOT Rohr Flats.




Cosmic
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Apr 19, 2010
I just went here for my first time on Sat. Such an awesome place!
By Spider Savage
Oct 14, 2010
Looks like new routes completed this summer on the Temple of Ishtar NW face. Please PM with route names or put them up here yourself.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 17, 2011
The road that accesses Texas Canyon is Rush Canyon Road, and is so marked. The sign at the turnoff from Sierra Highway indicates that the road to the left (Rush Canyon Road) leads to the Rowher Flats OHV Area.


Next left, Rush Canyon Road.
Next left, Rush Canyon Road.


A left turn at this sign leads to Texas Canyon.
A left turn at this sign leads to Texas Canyon.



If you turned left at the OHV sign, onto Rush Canyon Road, this is what you should see.
If you turned left at the OHV sign, onto Rush Canyon Road, this is what you should see.
By Spider Savage
Jun 24, 2011
Interested in turning over the administration of this area to another more energetic. I just don't get the time to get out there like I should.
By EnFuego
From: Seal Beach, Ca
Nov 8, 2011
I just made some calls to the Bouquet Canyon Ranger District, and they believe this entire area is closed as it's in an environmentally sensitive area. Does anybody have any additional information regarding closure to the climbing area or it being off limits? Is this area strictly enforced?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 12, 2011
Currently, Texas Canyon is NOT posted as closed. Hunters, motorcyclists, dog walkers, mountain bikers, and climbers are frequenting the area. The area was closed for 18 months in 2008/2009 due to the Buckweed Fire, which burned over 2000 acres on October 21, 2007, and destroyed the Santa Clara/Mojave Ranger District Headquarters, but if Texas Canyon was closed the gate at Sierra Highway would be locked and the area would be posted.
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Nov 25, 2011
Knot trying to be a jerk, but how come Mt. Project always tells us to use Helmets.......

I don't own one, never needed one.

But to me its just a personal preference, I dont care if you use one.

Whats next?

You going to tell us what shoes to bring???

And I hope that Ben Chapman dude dosen't get this place closed because of his weak, "me first" ethic. Ben you don't need to put up crappy short climbs anymore, OK. We are growing tired of all the dead plants, chopped holds, poor bolt placements etc. that you do. Please take up bowling or some other "sport" cause you ain't a climber.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 27, 2011
Wow, lots and lots of folks out climbing at Texas Canyon today!! Every formation; Hyperion Slab, The Canyon, The Egg, Temple of Ishtar, Tower of Babel, The Diner, and the Pangea Wall, had parties climbing on them. At one point there were 13 cars at the parking area, many with Notices of Non-Compliance adorning their windshields. Awesome weather, with no wind event as predicted, and everyone having a great time.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 28, 2011
Guy you can borrow my old helmet, however it does have a huge hole in the top from where a falling rock hit it...

This is a nice local lead area, and while the rock is not of the highest quality the climbing is fun and engaging, plus the scenery is practically unspoiled. Chris Savage had the good taste to make the moderate Hyperion Slab routes nice and run out, which gives them a distinctly non-Sport climb feel and adds to the spice on the easier second pitches - and as such are probably more for people very steady at long run out 5.7 leads.

I have only climbed a few routes here but I would recommend adjusting the quality star rating system because it seems like we're using some other area (a granite area?) as the datum for the quality ratings, for example I would say that Hyperion is at least 3 stars based upon the surrounding climbs, it has good moves between widely spaced bolts plus a cool hanging belay. Anyway MHO.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 2, 2011
Ryan I have no problem with the hangers being painted, this way they are the same color, or thereabouts, as the rock. I doubt this practice will get Texas Canyon closed, as it's an environmentally sound practice, and demonstrates a certain level of sensitivity.

It is not graffiti.
By Anders H
From: Saugus, CA and Pocatello, ID
Dec 21, 2011
Is there any trad climbing or known trad ascents at Texas Canyon?
By Chisel Less
May 8, 2012
Can't believe my OP was pulled! I will write on here every day!

Went to Texas Canyon a few days ago, Have not been there in a long time, I was appalled at what I saw, Glued on rocks, Drilled out pockets, Chiseled out cracks, bolted 3rd class slabs, destroyed vegetation, Bolts that were spray painted after installation rock, Full squeeze jobs next to classic routes, Etc... Do we really need another chiseled and glued Echo type pile..

Ben C has lost his mind. I am going to talk with the land managers of Bouquet Canyon/Rowher Flats, This outrageous UN-respectful destruction of a natural resource must stop.

If you pull this post it means MT Project condones Chiseling! And is not a true representative of our Sport..
By Chisel Less
May 8, 2012
Please stop pulling my post off! You have no right to..I did not say anything that was not true facts. The truth is hard to take isn't it.
Spider Savage I have a right to speak the truth here..I thought you were a nice guy with some ethics, do you really condone chiseling gluing adding glued holds to the rock? Comment please.
By Spider Savage
May 9, 2012
Yes. Please do not chisel or glue on holds.

The rock here is pretty loose. Gluing to the matrix would be a waste.

Also the epoxy writing the rating of the climb is not good.

Some folks think that since the rock is kind of loose and the area trashed by motorcyclists, shooters and other free-for-all land uses, that anything goes. We need to keep this area clean and natural. Taking a fuss between climbers to the land managers is what will get things shut down. Please maintain high standards and respect for public lands.

PS. I do not have edit power on your posts. The owners of the site will sometimes remove slander. Debates are good. Post your words responsibly and they will help.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
May 9, 2012
Since the closure of Williamson Rock many of the crags in and around the Los Angeles Basin have seen an increase in the number of climbers trying to enjoy our sport. My first visit to Texas Canyon was in the mid-1990s and since that time I have noticed many changes, some positive; like many of the newer well protected routes, the upgrading of old unsafe bolts and anchors, an increase in the number climbers enjoying climbing at Texas Canyon, and some negative; noise, litter, fires, erosion, and loss of vegetation. However, what I have not seen or witnessed is chiseling, chipping, gluing, or the wanten destruction of vegetation. Texas Canyon is a fragile and priceless resource that deserves our care and respect. Please be good stewards and don't expect the land managers or others to do it for you/us. As Spider Savage has indicated maintain high ethical standards and show respect for our public lands.
ps. Echo Cliffs was NEVER shutdown or closed. Four routes were voluntarily removed from the south side of the Grotto, but none of the routes in Louie Anderson's guidebook were ever affected. As a result a positive and collaborative relationship has developed with the rangers and the NPS, to include Adopt-a-Crag days at Echo Cliffs.
By David Carrera
Feb 12, 2013
Have you ever heard of a "canyon" that you could touch both walls at the same time? I don't know, seems like a corridor to me, but since you bring Spider Savage into this as some kind of legitimizing voice here, WTF makes him the arbitrator of any of this? He can name his routes whatever he wants but I fully can't stand the names he has put on the formations.But for the sake of argument, let's accept his word on this one:
Corridor
Corridor
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 5, 2013
Spider Savage refers to the feature as "The Canyon" in his aerial photo, but word has it that the feature will be dubbed the "First Corridor" in the upcoming guide to Southern California Sport Climbing.
The Canyon...Spider Savage.
The Canyon...Spider Savage.
By Mitchells
Jun 10, 2013
iki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_...


If a pond is a lake... and a stream is a river... then that would make this a canyon, nahh it would still be a corridor.
If a pond is a lake... and a stream is a river... then that would make this a canyon, nahh it would still be a corridor.
By Ed Nummelin
Jul 15, 2013
Whats with all the litter?! Especially the cigarette butts! Come on people dont you have any respect for our climbing area? Please try to pickup after yourselves. Oh and who cares what something is called whether it be a corridor or a canyon? DBAD. Please pick up your trash.PLEASE PICK UP YOUR TRASH!!!!
By Tom Beckley
From: Arcadia, CA
Jan 16, 2014
Does anyone know what the new traverse route bolted above the overhang on the tower of ishtar? saw it on the walk out, hard first boulder moves to second bolt, saw a total of 17 bolts, whats this climb rated ? looks very fun
By Shawn Adams 1
From: Pasadena, California
Jan 26, 2014
How does this place compare to Big Rock? I imagine fewer people?
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Mar 2, 2014
Ben, why are you even trying to go to a sandstone crag in the rain?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 2, 2014
Tristan...don't get your knickers in a twist, Texas Canyon is sandstone conglomerate, which is related, but significantly stronger than sandstone + water. We were out for a hike and some exercise, not pulling holds off of climbs.
By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Mar 5, 2014
TEXAS CANYON TO OPEN ON FRIDAY OR BEFORE (that's what the rangers told my friend today when she called).
By Steve Hermosisima
From: Torrance, CA
Mar 16, 2014
I parked road side with no adventure pass expecting a $25 ticket, max. upon leaving I have a $125 fine waiting for me. Has anyone else received a fine recently because this is an outrageous price?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
May 6, 2014
A US District Court Judge, Terry Hatter, Jr., citing a 2012 federal appeals decision in Arizona has ruled against the US Forest Service Adventure Pass fees in Southern California. The federal judge has ruled that visitors to Southern California's four national forests DO NOT need to buy an Adventure Pass, if they are only hiking and do not use forest facilities. What the rangers and/or ticket issuers can't do is just assume that anyone who is parked at a trailhead is using the facilities and issue a citation. Of course, the US Forest Service is reviewing the decision.

The Adventure Pass sign still remains, although they have been removed in many parts of the ANF.
The Adventure Pass sign still remains, although they have been removed in many parts of the ANF.
By carlos2
Aug 15, 2014
"help" Santa Clarita-Texas Canyon-Left behind a 60m Blue color Mammut Rope and a separate rope bag behind the Egg corridor-I thru the rope and bag over to take short cut and it landed on a rattle snake. Snake was still alive so didn't want to chance it. If found please contact me at (909) 418-8831, Carlos Ortiz
By carlos2
Aug 15, 2014
"help" Today Friday Aug 15 at Santa Clarita-Texas Canyon-Left behind a 60m Blue color Mammut Rope and a separate rope bag behind the Egg corridor-I threw the rope and bag over to take short cut and it landed on a rattle snake. Snake was still alive so didn't want to chance it. If found please contact me at (909) 418-8831, Carlos Ortiz
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Aug 25, 2014
We were asked by a USFS ranger, L Hernandez, to spread the word that the bees are quite active at Texas Canyon and that an EpiPen (epinephrine) or Benadryl (Diphenhydramine) would be highly recommended if you're in the area and you know you're sensitive to bee stings. According to Ranger Hernandez there was a major evacuation at Texas Canyon on Saturday, August 23, due to a climber having an allergic reaction (anaphylaxis) to a bee sting. She was apparently unaware that she was allergic to bee stings, until it became life threatening. Be careful out there!
By Legion
Aug 29, 2014
I was surprised how much crumbly rock there was on established areas (eg, Temple of Ishtar). I'm not too familiar with this type of rock. Is it appropriate to clean up the really loose stuff as one plays on the wall? I'm talking about the stuff that easily exfoliates with a finger. Or just tread lightly and don't alter the route?
By Spider Savage
3 days ago
As mentioned in the CAUTION in the intro. The routes are NOT clean and a helmet is advised, especially for the belayer or 2nd below. A good climber never drops rocks on others and does their best to clean potential hazards. This rock exfoliates. What is solid today may come off in your hand in a few years. Rain and heat will work things loose. Most folks establishing routes have cleaned for safety. But be wary all the time.