Climbing at Palisade Head with Shovel Point in the background. Poseidon Adventure, Henning Boldt and Kate Muehling. Sept 08, '09.
Tettegouche is the crown jewel of Minnesota climbing. Palisade Head boasts 100 or so climbs with potential for more and Shovel Point holds dozens of climbs. Dramatically positioned over Lake Superior, both areas carry an air of seriousness not found at other Minnesota crags. All climbs must be rapped in to lead or top-roped from above.
There is a strict no-chalk ethic in the area and nailing and bolting is not allowed. That being said, you will occassionally find people using chalk here and you will find old in-situ pins as well as old (and not so old) bolts on some climbs. A free permit to climb is required by the state park and can be picked up during business hours at the park headquarters. Some people get passionate about the chalk debate.
Both areas are good places to wear helmets as tourists abound. Be nice to them and hopefully they'll be nice to us.
Just north of Silver Bay and about 60 Miles north of Duluth on Highway 61. It's pretty hard to miss the sign for Tettegouche.
You can use some bigger cams (up to 3 camalot on the right arching crack) on the lower part of the route, leading to the big ledge. After that, the crack starts out tight hands, then ranges from tips to large fingers. So take cams from 00 C3 up to 3 Camalot, and stoppers 8-12.Note: On the FFA I used only stoppers, hexes, and slider nuts. ...[more]Browse More Classics in MN
If I recall correctly from the late 80's/early 90's there was an older book for the North Shore areas of Lake Superior (IE Tetagouche- Palisade Head and Shovel Point) made a big deal about how that rock was so rare... That it was Rhyolite and that it was found there and in Turkey (yes, the country).
But if you go to the NM page, the comments there include some regarding rhyolite climbing there.
Can someone confirm that there was such a book in print and that it did say that? My memory is usually very accurate for that sort of thing, but 20 years is a long time for minutia.
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI May 9, 2008
Anyone been able to climb up here yet this season? I am thinking about coming up may 18... What is late/mid may weather like up there?
I've been hoping to get up there too, as I'm sure many have, but weekend weather hasn't been cooperative. What's it like in mid/late May? Anybody's guess. Could be shorts and tshirts, could be sideways snow. Keep an eye on weather forecast and cross your fingers!
A couple of us were up there this past weekend. Beautiful conditions. everything we got on was bone dry. Danger, driving in duluth, ex nihilo, and a couple others. There's been people climbing up there for a few weeks now. Make the hike up there, well worth it to climb without hordes of tourists.
I climb at VE in Duluth and have lead a few routes at palisade. I always bring chalk when leading routes because it's my a** that's going to hurt if fall when attempting an onsight. I guess the park service is going to have to kick me out and send me back to VE for the summer.
"Yup. Anyone that climbs at VE Duluth pretty much has no say in this matter unless you actually lead routes at "The Head." Go lead the classics and then give your ethical opinion. BTW, yes, the old school Duluth dudes did kick ass by developing this area. They are a proud few that deserve credit."
Darin you might what to shut up until you know who the people are you you are talking to. Ripping on strong climbers who train at Duluth VE, and who have had nothing to do with this conversation is about as dumb as the hole chalk ethic debate.
What? Are you really asking that question? or are you just trying to be a d-bag. You know we don;t have nearly the training facility you do in the cities, but we do what we can with what we DON'T get from VE and NICROS. And to answer your question yeah it is; within are small climbing community there are a few strong climbers.
Sometimes chalk is necessary, otherwise holds become almost impossible to keep securely.
I personally object to the gratuitous use of loose chalk which can really get everywhere while the use of chalk ball tends to keep things more tidy and sightly. Colored chalk is preferred if available. If you can climb it without chalk, one style point for you, bravo!
Everyone can get along here if people are conservative as possible, at the North Shore and anywhere else!
Anyone know whats going to happen with this weekend and the state issue? Will it be considered trespassing if you climb at shovel point or palisade? Will the gate to palisade be unlocked? I haven't been following the news only hear that the "state" is shutting down.
Wally612nd , We called Blue Mounds state park and they said that no day use of their park would be allowed. I would guess that it would be the same for all of the parks in the state and I'd imagine the Palisade gates would be locked. But you could call and get confirmation. I'm thinking of just going over to Wisconsin for the weekend.
7. Will day-use be permitted at state parks during a shutdown? (6-28-11) If there is a shutdown, facilities would be locked, roads and campgrounds would be closed and gated where possible, water would be shut off, and no services would be available. It would be possible, but not recommended, for day-use to continue at state parks during regular day-use hours.
FYI- peregrines are nesting. Stop in the information building when you are getting your free annual pass (because you are a responsible climber =D) and ask about which routes are temporarily closed. Applies to Palisade and Shovel. Not all the routes, but many are affected.
Nick: "It starts below the ledge with that pigeon on it." Lucas: Silence. Strange look. Nick: "That's not a pigeon"
I understand the no-chalk policy. However, is it acceptable to use chalkless chalk or organic chalk? I'm about to climb up at Tettegouche for the first time, and I just want to make sure that I don't upset anybody, hurt the rock, or upset the peregrines and others in the local habitat (and I don't really want to start/continue the chalk vs no chalk debate, I'm just asking a practical question).
Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
By Jordan Hirro From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri Jan 26, 2014
I might be planning a trip from Colorado out here for what looks to be amazing climbing. Can anybody give me any information on the climbing seasons and if there's any camping in the area? Thanks a lot.