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Routes in Pedra do Bau
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Bito Meyer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chora negão T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cresta Com Normal on Pedra do Bau T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Do fundo do Baú T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Nóia de Cão T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paletó de madeira T A3+ |
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Saudades de Salinas T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1- |
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Seu Madruga e os Chaves T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sombra e escuridão T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C2 |
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Teto do Baú T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 R |
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Transbaú T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,038 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Cissa Carvalho on Jan 14, 2014 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby |
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Description
"Teto do Baú" (Baú's Roof) is a classic aid line in the Mantiqueira range, and a super aerial in 90% of its two pitches.
Grade is A1 5c french/5.9 YDS line that starts at a small plateau, following the south side tip of Pedra do Baú. After about 40 "Ps" (home made bolts very commom in Brazil shaped as a P, I'll refer to them here as bolts to make reading easier), you reach the first anchor station. From there to the top lies the A1 grade, for you need to climb a bit in order to reach two other bolts quite apart from each other and follow on with aiding.
After this second bolt, the route turns positive and it's a 3rd class climb to the summit.
Grade is A1 5c french/5.9 YDS line that starts at a small plateau, following the south side tip of Pedra do Baú. After about 40 "Ps" (home made bolts very commom in Brazil shaped as a P, I'll refer to them here as bolts to make reading easier), you reach the first anchor station. From there to the top lies the A1 grade, for you need to climb a bit in order to reach two other bolts quite apart from each other and follow on with aiding.
After this second bolt, the route turns positive and it's a 3rd class climb to the summit.
Location
Pedra do Baú is filled with trad routes, bolted, mixed and clean, of a large range of grades, so there are several options to get to the base of the Teto route itself. You can join routes on each other on either face, it all depends on your experience, weather conditions and time.
The route start is very obvious, at the plateau where several of these routes end.
The route start is very obvious, at the plateau where several of these routes end.
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