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Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wall)
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Pangea Wall 
Shrike, The 
Tethys 

Tethys 

5.7

   
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Type: Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: 1998 -Savage
Season: 4
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Spider on Tethys at the last bolt before belay at ...

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Description 

Crux on some thin face moves in the middle of the first pitch. The rest is pretty easy.


Location 

NW corner of main rock, at the bottom of the canyon. Right edge of Pangea Wall.


Protection 

Quick draws only. The route is fully bolted. Some run-out on the easier bits.



Photos of Tethys Slideshow Add Photo
Tethys 5.8+, 2 pitches, fully bolted. The crux is the steep bit just before half way up. The rest is 5.6 or less. Fun route.

BETA PHOTO: Tethys 5.8+, 2 pitches, fully bolted. The crux is ...

Navigating through the knobs on "Tethys."

Navigating through the knobs on "Tethys."

Anchors at the top. I took out a small old rusty quick link and added a big one and a rap ring. It's still a mess but is a little better.

Anchors at the top. I took out a small old rusty q...

A leader setting up for the crux of "Tethys."

A leader setting up for the crux of "Tethys."


Comments on Tethys Add Comment
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By Spider Savage
Apr 10, 2010

Downgraded from 5.8+ to 5.7 by consensus. A fun route. Well protected in the harder bits and more run-out on the super easy stuff. The first bolt is kinda high but super easy to get to. On the second pitch there are three bolts. Bear to the left from the midway belay. The first bolt is easy to see. The second is just out of site above the large pockets. Second pitch is about 5.3. Kinda run-out but if you can get to it, your not likely to fall.

By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 10, 2011

This is my favorite of the multipitchs to the summit so far that I've done. Its way less run out then the ones on the hyperion slab on the front of the formation. The anchors at the top are a shit show though, crazy mess of rusty chains.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.7

The manky anchor with the tiny screw links at the top of the 1st pitch has been upgraded and Fixe 2-ring anchor installed. Also, on the 1st pitch protection bolts #1, 3, 4, & 5 have been replaced and upgraded to 1/2." The 6th bolt was a spinner, but we tightened it down and everything likes sound.
P1 - 6 bolts, 2-ring Fixe anchor. P2 - 3 bolts & a mass of chains linked to 3 bolts for an anchor.

By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 20, 2011

Nice job on that belay. Those links looked barley strong enough to hold my keys. I just rapped into the canyon when we topped out so we wouldn't have to use them.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.7

There are fresh fall scars on the route below the 1st bolt. Lots of dust, grit, and debris, so be careful. The rockfall didn't originate from Tethys or the Pangea Wall, but from high on the opposite wall (the Jukebox). Be safe out there.

Rockscar near the 1st bolt on Tethys due to rockfall from the Jukebox formation.
Rockscar near the 1st bolt on Tethys due to rockfall from the Jukebox formation.
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Apr 22, 2013