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 ADVANCED
Pangea Wall (or Pangaea Wall)
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Hob Knob 'in (aka Butt Cold & Crazy) T,S 
Pangea Wall TR 
Shrike, The TR 
Tethys S 

Tethys 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1998 -Savage
Season: 4
Page Views: 2,067
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Spider on Tethys at the last bolt before belay at ...

Description 

Crux on some thin face moves in the middle of the first pitch. The rest is pretty easy.

Location 

NW corner of main rock, at the bottom of the canyon. Right edge of Pangea Wall.

Protection 

Quick draws only. The route is fully bolted. Some run-out on the easier bits.


Photos of Tethys Slideshow Add Photo
Pebble wrestling on "Tethys."
Pebble wrestling on "Tethys."
Tethys 5.8+, 2 pitches, fully bolted. The crux is ...
BETA PHOTO: Tethys 5.8+, 2 pitches, fully bolted. The crux is ...
finishing tethys
finishing tethys
Navigating through the knobs on "Tethys."...
Navigating through the knobs on "Tethys."...
Working up the initial wide crack-like feature at ...
Working up the initial wide crack-like feature at ...
Anchors at the top. I took out a small old rusty q...
Anchors at the top. I took out a small old rusty q...
half way up lead on 1st pitch of Tethys
half way up lead on 1st pitch of Tethys
A leader setting up for the crux of "Tethys.&...
A leader setting up for the crux of "Tethys.&...
On Tethys on the right side of the Pangea Wall.
On Tethys on the right side of the Pangea Wall.
Tethys lead.
Tethys lead.
New 25 kn (5620 lbf) hanger on the 6th bolt of &qu...
New 25 kn (5620 lbf) hanger on the 6th bolt of &qu...
finishing up Tethys
finishing up Tethys
Reconfigured and simplified P2 anchor on "Tet...
Reconfigured and simplified P2 anchor on "Tet...

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By Spider Savage
Apr 10, 2010

Downgraded from 5.8+ to 5.7 by consensus. A fun route. Well protected in the harder bits and more run-out on the super easy stuff. The first bolt is kinda high but super easy to get to. On the second pitch there are three bolts. Bear to the left from the midway belay. The first bolt is easy to see. The second is just out of site above the large pockets. Second pitch is about 5.3. Kinda run-out but if you can get to it, your not likely to fall.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 10, 2011

This is my favorite of the multipitchs to the summit so far that I've done. Its way less run out then the ones on the hyperion slab on the front of the formation. The anchors at the top are a shit show though, crazy mess of rusty chains.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The manky anchor with the tiny screw links at the top of the 1st pitch has been upgraded and Fixe 2-ring anchor installed. Also, on the 1st pitch protection bolts #1, 3, 4, & 5 have been replaced and upgraded to 1/2." The 6th bolt was a spinner, but we tightened it down and everything likes sound.
P1 - 6 bolts, 2-ring Fixe anchor. P2 - 3 bolts & a mass of chains linked to 3 bolts for an anchor.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jun 20, 2011

Nice job on that belay. Those links looked barley strong enough to hold my keys. I just rapped into the canyon when we topped out so we wouldn't have to use them.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There are fresh fall scars on the route below the 1st bolt. Lots of dust, grit, and debris, so be careful. The rockfall didn't originate from Tethys or the Pangea Wall, but from high on the opposite wall (the Hatchery). Be safe out there.
Rockscar near the 1st bolt on Tethys due to rockfa...
Rockscar near the 1st bolt on Tethys due to rockfall from the Hatchery formation.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 25, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Done as a single pitch, "Tethys," is excellent. Carry 11 quick draws and clip one of the rings at the P1 anchor, move left, from the blunt arete to the knob strewn upper face. Clip four more bolts on P2, to the chain anchor. P1 - 6 quick draws and a 7th for the ring. P2 - 4 quick draws. 185 feet of fun and knobs.