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Routes in Old New Place
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4-Star Arete TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bee Sting T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Berserker T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crucifriction TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Direct Start to Bee Sting TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Start to Route 10 TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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God Route (aka Mike's Route) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gulf Stream T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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High Roof Left T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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High Roof Right T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jet Stream T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Momentum T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Route 10 T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Route 16 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Route 17 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 19 T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Route 7 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sinewave (aka S Crack) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Songs of Love TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tetherball T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Total Abstinence T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Unnamed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,087 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Sep 28, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
A boulder problem start (crux) involves mantling up a corner with a seam in the back, where repeated toproping falls likely led to the route's name. This is hard to protect on lead, but is low enough that it isn't a big deal to hop down. After an easier section with positive holds, move right onto the second crux: an overhanging face with jugs. You may be able to place gear before committing to the face. Mantle onto the platform and finish by stemming with pro in cracks to the back.
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