Test Tube is an outstanding handcrack and chimney climb.
Pitch one goes up the obvious corner system with juggy holds on the sides. Soon, the rock becomes glass-like, and the only feature left is a killer hand crack that widens into a chimney.
Pitches two and three continue up the chimney to the top of the pillar. These pitches are about 80 feet each.
Rappel the route to the right, Spare Rib, with one 60m rope.
Test Tube is in the prominent right-facing dihedral about 30 feet left of Spare Rib and about 100 yards left of Crimson Chrysalis.
Bring a generous rack for the first pitch with an emphasis on #0.75 to #2 Camalots. We didn't need anything larger than a #3 on any pitch of this climb. There is no fixed gear or bolts.
Apr 10, 2009
Climbed this the other day. Would recommend a piece or two larger than 3". Fun polished hand jamming at the end of the first pitch, a very narrow stance at the first belay. The second pitch involves some 5.7 R chimney climbing with stemming on weird pockets. Can finish the climb with one long second pitch. By the end of the climb the route quality deteriorates to something more "gully" like and has some loose, sandy rock. Worth doing once.
Oct 21, 2009
Killer. Beautiful thin hands/hands on p1. Currently a nut anchor in place at the belay.
|By Tom Fralich|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 19, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Good climb, but the crux was pretty burly for me. The crack is thin and it's in the back of a tight corner, so pretty hard for those with wide shoulders and big hands. Agree on taking a #4. I was able to place some cams in pockets on the chimney pitch, so it wasn't that scary.
From: Henderson, NV
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I had a difficult time on the hand crack on pitch one. It was difficult for me to get my hands far enough back into the crack to effectively jam due to my shoulders getting in the way / my arms not being long enough.