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 ADVANCED
Buck's Bar Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adhesion TR 
Amazing Chimney TR 
Awful Width TR 
Bat Crack Left T,TR 
Bat Crack Right TR 
Bat Roof T,TR 
Bat Roof Direct TR 
Beginner's Cracks T,TR 
Candy Corn Boulder T 
Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 
Dan's Delight T,TR 
Dinkum T,TR 
Drastical T 
Dreamer TR 
Dreamer to Planned Obsolescence Traverse T 
Fingerprint TR 
Fly or Die TR 
Great Chimney TR 
Khazad Arete TR 
Knob Job TR 
Lap Dancing TR 
Live and Learn T 
Magic Beans T 
Mangler T,TR 
Nightmare TR 
Palm Beach TR 
Planned Obsolescence T,TR 
Pod, The T,TR 
Popcorn T,TR 
Squeeze Cheeze TR 
Test Piece T,TR 
Training Pants T,TR 
Triscuit Rock TR 
Unconquerable T,TR 
Unconquerable-Tunnel Through T 
Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 

Test Piece 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,014
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on May 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of Buck's Bar Dome (Main Area) and Great ...

Description 

Climb up the less than vertical crack in the right corner of the main area.

Sustained, this route gives excellent liebacks and jams the whole way up the crack. Trusting your feet on the excellent granite of Buck's Bar Dome is a must, but you can make it to the top!

This route shares a top anchor with Adhesion (5.10c withvariations more difficult) just to the right on the face and rounded arete.

Protection 

Pro up to 2 1/2" will suffice.

To set up a toprope:You can access the top anchors by walking aroundto the top of Buck's Bar Dome via the exit path tothe left.


Photos of Test Piece Slideshow Add Photo
Test Piece from the base.
BETA PHOTO: Test Piece from the base.
Leading Test Piece
Leading Test Piece
Test Piece
Test Piece

Comments on Test Piece Add Comment
Show which comments
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Nov 13, 2007

You may want to double up on 1-1 1/2" cams.
By Christopher Michaelson
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with doubling up on the smaller cams if you choose to lead this route.

I set up a TR anchor using the two bolts at the top of the route. There is a little bit of rust on one of the bolts, so I also backed up the anchor using two more bolts that were close by.

This is a fun climb, and the crux is just a bit over half way up. Stick to the right-most crack, and lie-back your way to the top (you'll definitely have to jam to surmount the crux).
By Peter Doak
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Both bolt hangers are moving now. Bolts still seem solid but show rust. Built anchor including neighboring bolts which are better. Route is very climber polished and was greasy around the crux. Still a good lead but protect the crux unless you crush this sort of route.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Dec 10, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you jam, then the crux is the first 6 ft, and the pod halfway up is the nicest rest on the entire route. Use broth cracks to start, including your left foot/toe in the corner crack while stemming with the right foot. It is very easy this way.
By Preston Havill
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 27, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just did this and many others on Buck's Bar on a trip through the area. I second the + rating as this is somewhat pumpy for a short route, especially through the crux, although rests are possible almost anywhere if you jam a foot or two. Then again I am from Colorado and my feet felt somewhat unsure on this slippery granite. I also thought the top bolts looked suspect and backed up the anchors by clipping a runner to the neighboring anchors to the right. Aptly named and a great climb!
By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Nov 2, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

As a liebacking exercise, this may be 5.8+. However, there's no reason this climb needs to be any harder than 5.7. With good crack technique (i.e. jamming both hands, keeping both feet in the crack, right hip against the wall), you'll find perfect hand jams, with only a short section of thin hands / liebacking in the final 4 feet of the climb.

No matter how you do it, it's a fun climb, and definitely one of the best in the CRG.