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Witches' Tower
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It's My Swamp T 
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No Direction Home S 
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 
Pumpkin Eater 
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Scarecrow T 
Teenage Terrorists S 
Tese S 
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Wisk, The 
Witch Hunt 

Tese 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Hand, Bob D'Antonio, Irina Overeem, Ron Olsen and Kent Lugbill
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,472
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 22, 2005

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Cruising up Tese.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start right of Romancing the Stone. Climb up a cool face making nice moves on edges and knobs past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be place before the third bolt. Make cool moves stemming up and over several small overhangs to the anchor.

ADD on: 6/10/08...Greg Hand and Bob D just added a extension past the anchor climbing along a cool arete with great moves. The route is now 100 feet long and 11 bolts. Be careful lowering as a 60-meter rope just makes it to the ground.

A great addition and one of the best 5.10 sport routes in the Canyon.


Protection 

Ten clips and a yellow Alien will get you to a two-bolt anchor.



Photos of Tese Slideshow Add Photo
Irina moving up to the overhang near the top.
Irina moving up to the overhang near the top.
Greg Hand in the airy corner near the top of the route.
Greg Hand in the airy corner near the top of the r...
Greg Hand at the second bolt on the first ascent. <br /> <br />Sustained, varied climbing from bottom to top makes Tese (pronounced "Tessie") an excellent and fun route.
Greg Hand at the second bolt on the first ascent.
...
Irina Overeem making the thin moves past the second bolt.
Irina Overeem making the thin moves past the secon...
Tese (pronounced "Tessie") climbs a steep face past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be placed in a finger crack after the second bolt. Move left and climb a fun stemming corner and a roof at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Tese (pronounced "Tessie") climbs a steep face pas...
Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.
Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.
Approaching the third bolt.
Approaching the third bolt.
Comments on Tese Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 18, 2012
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An excellent, sustained route with varied moves.

If you're headed to Sherwood Forest, stop here first and do this route!

By kyle lefkoff
Sep 28, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A high-quality short line climbs an interesting feature. Kudos to Bob and his team for this fine effort.

By ac
Sep 28, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Short & a tad forced, but pretty cool nonetheless!

By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Jul 23, 2007

Heady bottom section for a 10. nice and balancy. Did without the added pro with no problem. I would call this 10c to be consistent with the area not 10-. Definitely worth doing.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jun 10, 2008

Tese has been extended to 100 feet.
Now you need 11 draws to a 2-bolt anchor.
A 60 meter rope gets you down. Tie a knot to be sure.
The second half is easier than the first and has fun climbing on the arete. There is no longer an anchor at the half way point. If you have a 50 meter rope, you may need to go to the anchor on No Direction Home or Scarecrow to the right.

By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Really good route. I thought the crux was right off the ground. The extension portion really has a lot of lichen still.

By Dan Brockway
From: Boulder
Jun 26, 2008

I did the extension today and thought it made the climb much more classic and enjoyable. Thanks for the work guys.

By djoseph
Jul 13, 2008

What a great climb. With the new extension, there are four sections: a thin slabby part followed by a blocky roof section, then a fun arete and finally a relaxed corner at the top. Agree with Bob that this is one of the best 10s in the canyon. Thanks Greg and Bob for extending it! (Note that you need 11 draws plus anchors... skipped the alien myself, and seemed fine.)

By Friso Schlottau
Jul 21, 2008

Great route! The extension makes this climb a great pitch - thanks to the FAs. The lower section (overhangs) has a few spots of interesting rock, though. I remember tapping a hand-hold and feeling my feet reverberate... (just after finishing the overhang).

By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Greg Hand wrote: "We have left the 2-bolt anchor at the half way point for climbers with shorter ropes."

The midway anchor is no longer there. One of the bolts has been cut and the other bolt has only a hangar on it now. One can traverse to No Direction Home if you have a short rope, but going to the top provides very fun climbing.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Aug 5, 2008

Ken, thanks for the reminder. I meant to make that note when we put in Scarecrow, we removed the intermediate anchor. I will change my comment above.

By Katie W
Sep 26, 2010

This route is full of fun moves with really excellent climbing all the way to the top. I personally found the committing move just before the third bolt to be too disconcerting to attempt without the added pro; my partner, however, did not have a problem relying solely on the bolts.

By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 28, 2011

Nice line with interesting climbing.

By slim
Administrator
Aug 24, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Possibly the best 10a sport route in the canyon, I can't think of any better ones off hand. From the moment you leave the ground until you clip the anchors, the climbing is good and fun. The rock is really cool and has a lot of different and interesting features. Be really careful as a 60m just barely gets you back to the ground.

By Patrick Shwartz
From: Thornton, CO
Aug 26, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

After getting past the first slabby part (crux), the route changes into this cool, chunky roof followed by a beautifully exposed arete. Amazing, sustained climb.

By Grant Gerhard
From: Denver, CO
Aug 27, 2011

Holy crap was this one was fun. Couldn't wipe the smile off my face afterwards.

By Jeff Chrisler
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Definitely one of the best 10s in the canyon. Awesome climbing and a nice extension. I found myself smiling every time I put a hand somewhere on the rock where I thought a hold would be, it was there pleasantly. Getting to the first bolt can be one crux depending on how you do it, and the second is the roof. Once that's done, it drops down to very pleasant 5.8 climbing. Do it!

By Raiden
From: Royal Oak, MI
Jul 18, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very nice route. Bring a couple slings to reduce rope drag.

Don't need any gear if you are solid on the grade.