Fine climbing and a good old school route. Runout is least of worries if you can do the crux. Climb crack in corner to end, then left to crack (5.11) up to bold face moves (5.10 PG). There may be cold shuts @ 100', these were not there in '86 when I lead it.
Left of the start of Castor & Pollux the is a short right-facing corner.
brass nuts, stoppers, small camming units, ball nuts helpful.
Mar 25, 2008
hmm. I remember the runout being through the crux? PG13 is pretty kind as well R?
|By Joe Vitti|
Oct 3, 2011
I top roped this route this past Friday and thought it was hard for the grade and that it would be a desperate lead. Hats off to Herb Laeger, leading this thing in 1975! World class for the time period and BOLD!