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Upper Broadway
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Terra Firma Homesick Blues 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Herb Laeger & Eve Uiga, 1975
Page Views: 1,317
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Jules Lines on-sighting Terra Firma Homesick Blues...

Description 

Fine climbing and a good old school route. Runout is least of worries if you can do the crux. Climb crack in corner to end, then left to crack (5.11) up to bold face moves (5.10 PG). There may be cold shuts @ 100', these were not there in '86 when I lead it.

Location 

Left of the start of Castor & Pollux the is a short right-facing corner.

Protection 

brass nuts, stoppers, small camming units, ball nuts helpful.


Comments on Terra Firma Homesick Blues Add Comment
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By Nate26
Mar 25, 2008

hmm. I remember the runout being through the crux? PG13 is pretty kind as well R?
By Joe Vitti
Oct 3, 2011

I top roped this route this past Friday and thought it was hard for the grade and that it would be a desperate lead. Hats off to Herb Laeger, leading this thing in 1975! World class for the time period and BOLD!