Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Alcove/Pic of the Vic area to the Upper Bridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abridgement 
Baby's Butt 
Bandelero 
Berserker 
Camino 
Desperado 
Dream Team 
Duncan's Delight 
Easter Rising 
Flamenco 
Harderline 
Hardline 
Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack 
L of Pocket Rocket 
Paranoia 
Pick o' the Vic 
Tangled Up In Blue 
Terminal Velocity 
Tribe 
Verminator, The 
Whitt's World 

Terminal Velocity 

WI6

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus: WI6- [details]
FA: Philippe, 2002
Season: a good winter
Page Views: 1,115
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 19, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Heel spurs, optional, yeah!

Description 

This fun little climb starts in the Dream Team/Jesus Built My Fingercrack area between the upper bridge & the Schoolroom area. Review of photos & video suggest that the ice here has been quite variable since 1996. In 1996 it appeared that an entire curtain of ice hid the Baby Butt start. In 1997 there was a dribble of ice in this corner. In 2003, there was enough ice to entice an attempt. This year, it sports a small ice roof allowing you go horizontal for a bit. Heel spurs not required but can enhance the experience. Despite asking around a bit, we have found no better/more-accurate name for this line. Mutants with fruit boots & leashless weapons will be bored. Nonetheless, it is pretty dang fun for average ice whackers (like us) with clunker warm boots and regular tools!

You can lead this line (evidence of ice screw hole); however there is no obvious fixed protection. Philippe noted that a fall before the ice can be serious with his 25 footer happening as one TCU pulled & he wound up inches off the deck. Belayers beware.

You can TR this with a single 60m rope with lots of long slings off 2 large trees just off the access trail or tie 2 ropes together. If you throw your ropes, aim for the ice prow of Jesus... To gain the start you may have to do a delicate traverse above open water below Baby Butt.

Ascend a bit of ice in a corner to below the roof. You probably need to use a rock hold or two for your L foot but otherwise lean back and reach out the 5-6 foot roof of ice. You can double heel-spur the hanging icicle on the left or go bareback and just pull over the roof. Once you get past the roof, it is WI4 terrain or less to the top. Yee haw!


Protection 

Ice screws, including stubbies, small cams (TCUs?), courage.


Toprope Protection 

Lots of long slings off 2 large trees to use a single 60m.



Photos of Terminal Velocity Slideshow Add Photo
Sans spurs, kickin' fun.
Sans spurs, kickin' fun.
Comments on Terminal Velocity Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -