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Great Northern Slab
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Terminal Preppie 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson 1983
Page Views: 1,606
Submitted By: andyf on Jul 17, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Terminal Preppie: Taking a TR run.

Description 

I absolutely love this route!!! Terminal Preppie offers multiple 5.11 cruxes with a great blend of power and finesse.

Climb easily to the first bolt, then ponder the first crux: an insecure friction sequence to nab a good jug below the roof. Undercling right and power over the bolt-protected roof (5.10 if you do it right), then balance up to a short crack/flake. Place a small wired if you want, or run it out to clip the first bolt of a fantastic three-bolt crimping sequence on matchstick to half-inch edges. The highly technical ultimate crux comes at the last bolt, starting off a good stance, which is good because it might take awhile to decipher.

Ah, but it's not over! After a moderate runout (good holds will appear), sidle up on a flake below the final roof and place a small wired (good placements). The final 5.11 crux pulls the roof on thin jams to a bomber rail, with a welcome horizontal hand crack at the back.


Location 

Approach as for Roger's Corner. Terminal Preppie is the first obvious route on the slab left of Roger's Corner.


Protection 

5 bolts (old bolts replaced in 2007), plus a few supplemental pieces. Definitely bring small wireds for the upper roof and for protecting the small crack/flake above the first roof. A #1 Camalot works well in the flake getting to the first bolt. A #3 Wild Country Rock is perfect for the upper roof. You can place a #2 Camalot in the final horizontal hand crack.



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By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 17, 2007

The name Terminal Preppie comes from a Dead Kennedys song of the same name.

By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Classic index slab. Hard levitation moves to good stances...and one crux after another till the chains. I think this route sports 4 5.11 cruxs. Beautiful.