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> Lower Town Wall
> (B) Sonic Slab
Terminal Preppie
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 42
votes
Routes in (B) Sonic Slab
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Nick O' Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pretty Vacant S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sonic Reducer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Strength Through Bowling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Terminal Preppie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Walkin The Dog T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson 1983 |
| Page Views: | 5,380 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | andyf on Jul 16, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Warning for the Great Northern Slab and Sonic Slab areas on the west (left) end
Details
In late Nov 2023, there was a significant rockfall encompassing the GNS, Sonic Slab, and Roger's Corner areas. There is still a ton of rock on the upper section that will very likely come down in the near future. This rock includes small and very large boulders. Please respect closures and avoid this region for the foreseeable future. For more information or updates please refer to the Climb Index! facebook page.
Description
I absolutely love this route!!! Terminal Preppie offers multiple 5.11 cruxes with a great blend of power and finesse.
Climb easily to the first bolt, then ponder the first crux: an insecure friction sequence to nab a good jug below the roof. Undercling right and power over the bolt-protected roof (5.10 if you do it right), then balance up to a short crack/flake. Place a small wired if you want, or run it out to clip the first bolt of a fantastic three-bolt crimping sequence on matchstick to half-inch edges. The highly technical ultimate crux comes at the last bolt, starting off a good stance, which is good because it might take awhile to decipher.
Ah, but it's not over! After a moderate runout (good holds will appear), sidle up on a flake below the final roof and place a small wired (good placements). The final 5.11 crux pulls the roof on thin jams to a bomber rail, with a welcome horizontal hand crack at the back.
Climb easily to the first bolt, then ponder the first crux: an insecure friction sequence to nab a good jug below the roof. Undercling right and power over the bolt-protected roof (5.10 if you do it right), then balance up to a short crack/flake. Place a small wired if you want, or run it out to clip the first bolt of a fantastic three-bolt crimping sequence on matchstick to half-inch edges. The highly technical ultimate crux comes at the last bolt, starting off a good stance, which is good because it might take awhile to decipher.
Ah, but it's not over! After a moderate runout (good holds will appear), sidle up on a flake below the final roof and place a small wired (good placements). The final 5.11 crux pulls the roof on thin jams to a bomber rail, with a welcome horizontal hand crack at the back.
Location
Approach as for Roger's Corner. Terminal Preppie is the first obvious route on the slab left of Roger's Corner.
Protection
5 bolts (old bolts replaced in 2007), plus a few supplemental pieces. Definitely bring small wireds for the upper roof and for protecting the small crack/flake above the first roof. A #1 Camalot works well in the flake getting to the first bolt. A #3 Wild Country Rock is perfect for the upper roof. You can place a #2 Camalot in the final horizontal hand crack.
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