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Terma 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 330'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Bucher, Skyler Penrod , Taylor Bond
New Route: Yes
Season: winter, spring, fall
Page Views: 2,056
Submitted By: paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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skyler on the way up the money pitch

Description 

P1 Face climb following bolt line passing rap station. Clip one more bolt to great spacious belay ledge with a bomber two-bolt belay station. 5.8, 11 bolts, 110 feet.
P2 Up, then left, pull a fun mantle, then back right to a huge belay ledge with a rap/belay station with 3 bomber bolts. Long draws on bolts #3, (optional long on bolt #4) and bolt #5 to reduce drag. 5.8, 8 bolts, 110 feet.
P3 Climb up following the crack line. Cut left into the corner take that to the top. Good tree on top and one belay bolt. Rap station is obvious on the way up, just below the lip of the summit. Standard rack, 5.9, 110 feet.

Location 

Obvious, large, right-leaning ramp, tops out left of huge roofs. Easy to see from road. Approach brings you up just to its right. Move up and left to nice flat belay area. easy to find. Single 70m to the deck and down the way you come up.

Protection 

Quickdraws. Standard rack if you're going to the top. one tiny TCU and extra; small fingers to .5 camalot. Single 70.


Photos of Terma Slideshow Add Photo
skyler givin it a go. tjurunga in back ground
skyler givin it a go. tjurunga in back ground
The top
The top
skyler about 1/2 way
skyler about 1/2 way
another view of the top
another view of the top
gettin er done
gettin er done
gear placed after a few laps
gear placed after a few laps
terma, the obvious large ramp, left center of photo
terma, the obvious large ramp, left center of phot...
terma (tibetan)
terma (tibetan)
be respectful of the wildlife in the area
be respectful of the wildlife in the area
the top
the top
the real locals
the real locals
gear placed on fa of pitch 3
gear placed on fa of pitch 3
P3
P3
the parking area, from the top
the parking area, from the top
Leading the first pitch.
Leading the first pitch.
taylor; on the job
taylor; on the job

Comments on Terma Add Comment
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By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
May 22, 2012

mid may, went into the shade at 3:20. mid december, all day sun. warm. this thing is ABSOLUTELY STELLAR!!!!! some spice and a little run. it's the desert; careful of loose rock. put up, ground up, on sight, mostly free. stepped in sling once on pitch 2 and once on pitch 3, otherwise all clean on the fa. this route is dedicated to all the average joe climbers. it is our sincere wish that as many average joes and janes as possible enjoy this route.
By Bondo
Feb 28, 2013

This is a bomber climb. Three pitches for the average climber. make sure to bring a few long runners and tape up the rock on the third pitch will rip up your hands if you dont.
By Eric Odenthal
Mar 13, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Fun route! Can not believe a route like this exists in Moab. Fun, spicy and with an insane view of all of the desert. A rim route for everyone. Wish there were more of these. Good job guys.

ended up linking the first two pitches with a 70 meter rope, skipped draws, had many double length runners. not recommended, but you can rap with one 70. 3 raps.
By Skyler Penrod
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Today was the first day I was able to make it back up this after we bolted the first pitch.

This is one of the more fun climbs I have done in the area. The climbing is engaging and stays a little heady with the run outs between bolts.

The 3rd pitch is the money pitch and with calcite build up climbs much like a quartzite/granite crack. The start of the 3rd pitch is run out on easy terrain to the first piece (anything from a .75 to a 1 BD) but then is run out to a bomber bolt. There is potential for a small piece in a very tiny pod about a body length above your last piece. I had a purple tcu and if you fiddled with around you could probably wiggle it in. A grey tcu or 000 C3 would definitely fit in the pod.

If you want you can sew up the rest of the pitch from the bolt to the top.

If you are in the area and looking for a cruiser with unbeatable views this is a must.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
May 27, 2013

did it again yesterday, 5/26/13. great morning shade until almost 11:00 am. roger did a great job on the first two pitches; his first lead ever!!!!! i took the last pitch and placed much less gear this time. 1 tiny, double small blue, double small grey, then single camalots to a #2. one quick draw. i think it could be better to substitute medium stoppers for the double cams. theres a couple bomber stopper placements up there. also; optional 3, 3 1/2, or 4 could be placed to really sew it up. the route is cleaning up real nice and the trail there is looking good too.
By g.miller
Sep 24, 2013

super fun climb and well protected. i would say the first two pitches are 5.6-5.7 and the last maybe 5.8 Easy to get down and amazing views, thanks for the hard work in putting this up! No need to take much gear for last pitch, single .3 to #2 camalot (?). Knocked off some remaining loose rock on way up, cleaning it up a little more. A must do for the grade, uniqueness and views!
By J Helms
From: SLC
Oct 18, 2013

Great climb. Bolts and anchors are all bomber. Awesome views throughout the climb and from the top.

The route is about 8.5 miles down 128 from the 191 junction. About 0.5 miles after you pass the big bend bouldering area, look for a pull-off on the left to park. The approach is a long scramble (expect ~45 minutes). Definitely worth the work, though.
By matt evans
From: salt lake city, UT
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

fun climb! climbed this with j helms on Oct 17. weather was perfect, in the sun all day. 2 star sport climbing, 3 star last trad pitch (calcite reminiscent of castleton), and a 4 star view/summit. Base jumpers jumped off the top as we were roping up. Long approach! trail needs work, we scrambled quite a bit

oh, and most important beta of all, next person to climb this needs to haul up a water bottle full of whiskey to refill the flasks in the summit register! thanks for that guys. About 2 shots left
By Skyler Penrod
Apr 8, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Lots of loose rock came down today! Just gets better with time!
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Apr 9, 2014

was back up there yesterday, 4/8/14. the refreshment stand was full and functional.