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 ADVANCED
Tent Peg
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"Pins and Needles" (assumed name, please correct it) T 
Tent Peg T 

Tent Peg 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Royal and Liz Robbins, 1964
Page Views: 2,301
Submitted By: Tyson S Arp on May 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Me on the final section.

Description 

This route starts at the high point between Superpin and Tent Peg. Climb the obvious wide crack. At the end of the crack, traverse right around to the other side of the spire. This is easy at first then more difficult (use the force if necessary--it worked for me). The route finishes up a short but unprotected face.

Be mindful of the way your rope is running. You'll need to place a long runner when you least want to.

A one rope rappel will get you back to the ground.

Protection 

Medium to large cams for the beginning and smaller pieces for the traverse. There is a bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Tent Peg Slideshow Add Photo
Joel Hagan with Laura Watson following
Joel Hagan with Laura Watson following
The "Superman Summit Belly-Flop" perfectly executed complete with rolling "air camera" footage.
The "Superman Summit Belly-Flop" perfect...
An alternative to the regular start is to climb a chimney up to a finger crack that is the opposite side of the regular route.In the photo it comes up from the climbers right.  It apparently goes at 5.7 as well.  There is a climber on Tricouni in the background.
An alternative to the regular start is to climb a ...
Jason Haas as seen on the summit of the Tent Peg as seen from the rap down. Not much room for 2 people. Photo by Tony Bubb, 7/'06
BETA PHOTO: Jason Haas as seen on the summit of the Tent Peg a...
start in the crack
start in the crack
Run it out to the solid anchors; after good gear in the horizontal seam.
Run it out to the solid anchors; after good gear i...
Brenda starts the final push to the summit of the Tent Peg.  Come on up -- there's just enough room on top for the both of us!
Brenda starts the final push to the summit of the ...
Traverse
Traverse
The best part of the climb.
The best part of the climb.

Comments on Tent Peg Add Comment
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By Off2Climb
Jun 29, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route. Nuts and large cams (Camalot #3) down low in the crack. Small cams (Camalot .3-.4) in the seam to protect the final face climb. Solid anchors.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The climb may also start from the West side up some rather dank and mossy cracks for 10 or 15 meters. This involves a 5.8 move to stand up, then 5.6 from there. You climb up to get on the better and cleaner rock where the formation starts looking like a pin & where the route officially begins. This beginning may require some judgment and skill to protect and climb safely. Despite its 5.7 rating it is probably not the best lead for a beginner.
The top has room for 2 "Au Cheval."
By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

This was my first trad lead! Great to be out in early March...already my 6th needles climbing day of the year. I slung the first flake and ran it out to the top, would have felt more comfortable had I put at least one nut before the final arete. I placed a small nut, a #3 and #4 cam in the crack and single length runner on the first flake.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 28, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Climbed the Tent Peg, but started on the opposite (North) side in a wide crack that faces the Hairy Pin. Climbed up, then traversed around to the left to join the same final runout to the top. Fun climb, with terrific exposure heading to the top, and a super small summit.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
May 25, 2010

I started on the East side, between the two spires super pin & tent peg. A narley crack with 2 small trees leads up to the better second half. Then up to the beautiful finish. I used cams 1-4 and nuts. Two bolt anchor.