|l. Sleepy Hollow
Start just 15 feet right of Wegetables I've Never Seen Before, just below a low tree at a left-leaning crack.
Climb the crack up to the overhang, aiming for the large horn. Move up past the horn on good, pumpy holds until you can traverse right on a series of smaller holds (crux). Once you reach the "thank god" stance (be creative!) work up on easier climbing to the ledge and tree belay/rap station.
Dick Williams describes this is having "thoughtful, pumpy moves"... and "strenuous to place gear." I couldn't agree more!
Far right end of the trapps... to access this area find a trail leading off the carriage road at the 'S' turn... follow traveled terrain towards the cliffs. Walk along up past the Dick's prick pinnacle and down the other side of the slope to reach Tennish
standard gunks rack up to #1 camalot
Tiny finger locks under the roof for cross overs a...
From: SL UT
Sep 18, 2010
I agree with Williams- he got this one right- fun little climb, and indeed interesting.
May 15, 2013
Straightforward to set up a top-rope on this after doing Wegetables (10a).
I think one key move below the main overhang might be pretty height related: At 169.5cm / 5ft7in I felt I could just barely "walk" my fingers onto the obvious rock horn.
May 21, 2013
I found this route significantly harder than Wegetables and Restless Virgins. It's technical and definitely PG. If this is 10c, Wegetable is 9. That said, the moves are very high quality and the last traverse is just lovely.
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jun 3, 2013
I second what georgejessel said. I really liked the traverse--thoughtful and pumpy at the same time. Very good gear the whole way, but none of the placements are obvious.
Sep 22, 2013
I would recommend bringing a couple micro nuts, they may prove useful in one spot. good route.