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The East Quarry
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Tendonkey Punch 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Langston
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 951
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 22, 2009
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Description 

Originally I sent this route and thought 11c/d or so. I thought it'd be called "East Quarry Story". The most important hold on the route broke off and in trying to send it sans hold, I ripped my A4 and A2. It's been almost 2 months since I did it and I'm nowhere near being able to get back on it.

I'm tentatively rating it 12c, only because it's harder than every 12c in CCC, but I haven't re-sent it yet so I can't really say. I only got the FA before the hold broke, it's not a project, fuck this route (aside from the ripping of connective tissue and the cancellation of so many plans that it caused, it's actually a good route).

All the bolts were placed on lead.


Location 

This is in the middle of the wall, 3 hangers up high. It is right of Hellhound, the A-Z right to left thing got this one in the wrong place.


Protection 

It's a sport route, but you need a few finger (0.5) size cams to place before you get up to the bolts.



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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Apr 30, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

I did this route today, I thought it was very good. I forgot my printout guide so didn't know anything re grade or history of this line but thought it aesthetic looking and not unreasonable appearing from the bottom. I don't know where the broken hold is/was (must have been around the second bolt?), but it was hard about the second bolt. I moved just left of the second bolt from the obvious flared pod and then continued up and slightly left following the weakness to a shake hold with poor feet, then back slightly R. to reeach to clip bolt #3, and stright up to the lip seemed like the way to go. This resulted in the chains being just to the R. from the lip jug. Perfectly reasonable line though it wanders around the bolts some, that's the nature of bolted on lead placements vs. rap installed bolts, but was fine. This was challenging and enjoyable with fun movement and seemed the natural line, maybe 12b? Seemed solid 12c-ish or more if you were to follow straight up from bolts 2, 3, to chains and a little contrived, though maybe following the bolt line directly was the way to go prior to the broken hold?.

Nevertheless, high quality, challenging, and recommended. I think it's a cool line.