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Tendonitis/osis cross training and drinking.
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Oct 25, 2010
mmmm....tree
I have felt your pain, brother. My experience has lead me to believe in ice...sit yourself down with a good book, an armcahair and an ice pack. I had it bad, iced it every evening with great results; a few months shy of 50-climbing as well as I ever did. (Not saying much, but it is a relative thing...) Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Joined Oct 4, 2001
177 points
Oct 26, 2010
I've said it before...stretch and ice. If it doesn't work, I'll eat my laptop. Mike Anderson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Nov 15, 2004
3,249 points
Oct 26, 2010
The West Desert...it's not just for climbing, suck...
brokeclimber wrote:
I mean it apparently works for the Achilles tendonitis, so why not the other ole tendons.


You can't just generalize because not all tendons are the same. They vary a lot in terms of length, thickness, stiffness, compliance, and the kinds of compressive and shearing forces they withstand. They also appear to strengthen and repair at different rates. That's why.
Aerili
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 5, 2007
2,516 points
Oct 27, 2010
Pete belays 2nd pitch Little corner
Tendonitis is your bodies defense against tearing your tendons off the bone due to overuse when muscles get stronger than tendons. Muscles get stronger faster than tendons. As you get older, in can take 6months for tendons to gradually strengthen to the point where pain goes away, then you're cured. Without this mechanism people would risk tendon rupture much more frequently. Listen to your body, do what doesn't hurt (much) and don't feel too down cuz it will definitely eventually get better. Peter Pitocchi
Joined Oct 4, 2009
104 points
Oct 27, 2010
So what are you all drinking? Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
Nov 15, 2010
I thought I'd add my two cents because I've suffered from tentendonitis myself. I used to get it really badly in my right elbow and sometimes in the left simultaneously (talk about uncomfortable). I talked to my doctor about it and he said that it's good to take 2-3 ibuprofin (sp?) depending on your weight before you climb. I started doing that, along with making myself take more days off, which was probably the worst part of it all. As much as it sucks, if you want to climb down the road you have to do what you can now to ensure your health and fitness stay up. Also, take time to stretch before you climb, if you aren't doing so already.


Oh and one side note. I know for a fact that tendonitis can also be brought on by dehydration so try to drink water as much as possible while you're trying to let your arm heal.
keenedavidson
From Knoxville,Tn
Joined Nov 14, 2010
0 points
Nov 25, 2010
Update.
After having success with the eccentric drops for my achilles tendon, started doing something similar with push ups, first 2 weeks did the push ups on my knees. I would just do the lowering portion, then pop up without using my arms (like a worm- did not do this in public) for 10 reps and do it again every other day for 3 sets.

It's working so far, skied on them twice and no pain. Every doctor and 90% the people I chat with recommend just resting and icing the pain away. After trying that for over 3 months, no dice. Doing this worked. I'm no doc and only one case study so don't take this as science.

And pop veggies, not pills.

About Ibuprofen (bad stuff)
Moreover, Warden and other researchers have found that, in laboratory experiments on animal tissues, NSAIDs actually slowed the healing of injured muscles, tendons, ligament, and bones. “NSAIDs work by inhibiting the production of prostaglandins,”substances that are involved in pain and also in the creation of collagen, Warden says. Collagen is the building block of most tissues. So fewer prostaglandins mean less collagen, “which inhibits the healing of tissue and bone injuries,” Warden says, including the micro-tears and other trauma to muscles and tissues that can occur after any strenuous workout or race."

From-
New York Times
brokeclimber
Joined Oct 25, 2010
0 points
Nov 25, 2010
I drink Miller Lite. brokeclimber
Joined Oct 25, 2010
0 points
Administrator
Jan 3, 2011
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
johnL wrote:
For about the last 5 years, I've had intermittent bouts with tendonitis in the elbows. It was as it's worst when I spent a good amount of time at a bouldering gym. It was at it's best when I was climbing many different styles. Upon return from Greenland, my elbows are the 2nd worst they've ever been. This was 100% caused by too much jugging. My conventional prevention workout consists of many should presses and tricep (I'm sure there is a name for it) things with a 5lb medicine ball. The idea is that it keeps the elbow moving. In addition to this, I go through about 5 different stretches for the arms. Combined, and about 2-4 times a week, this works. It's not working. I'm also throwing in about 50(20/30 sets) pushups 3 times a week because everyone swears by them. It seems to help but again it's not going away. I try to get out on my road bike as much as possible, and swim in the ocean at least weekly. Both activities seem to really set my elbows off even more. I curl my beers with my left arm, is this coincidence that the left is worse than right? So for questions. Any magical exercises that I'm omitting? Is there something about the road bike that would further aggravate the elbows? How is swimming bothering me? I blame all the old bland beer here. If we had 2 dozen more microbrews, I'm sure I'd be the pinnacle of health and sending.



Uuuh yeah, so I spent Sunday afternoon climbing with John at the BRC. He was on his 5th 5.12 onsight when I left. He apparently did more and only fell once. And I got him in for free as well. Seemed like his elbows are fine to me. But what do I know?
Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
594 points
Feb 25, 2011
Ancient art
I spin a NSD Powerball and do yoga on off days to increase bloodflow to the area. Brent Huff
From SLC, UT
Joined Feb 22, 2011
44 points
Mar 13, 2012
Indian Creek Climbing
What is the consensus on the effectiveness of the powerballs?

Brent Huff wrote:
I spin a NSD Powerball and do yoga on off days to increase bloodflow to the area.
coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Jan 25, 2005
550 points
Mar 13, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Drinkers elbow can be solved by wearing a double cup beer helmet with dual hoses. See 'em all the time at Packers games. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,091 points


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