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 ADVANCED
Reggie Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chief, The T 
Curbside T 
Fender Bender T 
Fresh Squeezed S 
Handicapped Zone T 
Irresponsibility Lessons T 
Meter Maid T 
Mole, The S 
Ninny's Revenge T 
Pops Goes Hawaiian T 
Short Cut T 
Speed Bump T 
Sunny Delight T 
Tender Flakes of Wrath  T 
Thompson's Acne T 
Thomsons Roof T 
What A Drag It Is Getting Old S 

Tender Flakes of Wrath  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott Batie & Kenny Pang
Page Views: 371
Submitted By: Dave Cox on Apr 8, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Climbs up the slab to the left of the pasty lookin...

Description 

There are two mixed climbs to the left of a long bolted route (Fresh Squeezed). This is the left one.

Climbs some very tender flake past two bolts up the slab to a very clean crack to the top.

Although not one to seek out it was worth it for the crack above.


Location 

Located to the right of Fresh Squeezed on the southwest corner of Reggie Dome.


Protection 

Two bolts protect the moves to the crack above. Standard rack to a two bolt belay rap.



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By Justin Slagle
From: Palm Desert, CA
Apr 29, 2009

The climb itself was fun, but on lead it was scary, both bolts are interesting. The first if i remember right is a spinner and the second bolt had the most hollow sound i've ever heard behind it when i gave it a knock before i clipped. The holds get a tad blank about 10+ feet from the second bolt and that fall on that bolt isn't too trustworthy. After that it's 20 feet of 5.6 run out till you get to the crack which has a fun entry move.

The crack above is worthwhile, but if you want to get to it, i say use the bolts on sunny delight.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jan 18, 2010

It's not the bolt that sounds hollow, it's the entire wall. Both the bolts are button-heads. The only thing more scary than leading would be sitting in that chasm belaying. These bolts should be removed and no one should ever speak of this climb again.

By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Nov 14, 2010

Which crack is being referred to in the description? Is it the thin seam surrounded by jugs or the larger crack to the left that accepts larger cams (i.e. #3 or #4)?