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Apr 30, 2013
Aiding. Photo by Locker.
You guys have almost convinced me, I think my next pair of shoes may very well be a pair of Tenayas. teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Joined Dec 16, 2012
636 points
May 10, 2013
Killing In The Name Of wrote:
I bought two pairs of the Tenayas, and have put a shit ton of pitches on them over the last few weeks. They fit amazingly, climb as hard as my best 5.10s, the rubber is sticky as hell and haven't had a single slip yet. I've been preferring the Ras for performance and the Masais for comfort, but the Masais are a half size bigger, so that may be more an indication of wiggle room than a decline in absolute edging ability. These are great shoes. I can't see someone who likes Miuras or Anasazis not liking these. They're really, really good shoes.


ah, shit, you just might have convinced me. what size do you wear in miura and what size did you get for tenaya?
divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
228 points
May 10, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
killing you should try the tatankas as well. I really liked the ras but i like the tatankas even more. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
May 11, 2013
ah, freak. I can't stand the anasazi at all! I'm gonna see if I can test out a pair of them. divnamite
From New York, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2007
228 points
May 15, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
Monomaniac wrote:
Jason, Based on those criteria, I would recommend the Tenaya Ra. Its wider than the Masai, but still perfect for multi-pitch trad climbing. They're a great "all-around" shoe, but still perfectly capable of edging on really tiny holds. I've worn mine all day while trad climbing with very little discomfort.


Thanks, I bought some Mythos 42.5 for comfort and easier, all day climbs....also order a pair of Muiras in size 43.5, they fit snug, but not cramped...but after reading everyone's comments I think I will probably go with Tenaya's RA or Maybe the Amigo(not avalible in US) which very simalar but a laceup... I've never owned strapped (velcro) shoes... how does the Ra fit on wider feet??? What size Ra would anyone, recommend??? I have 10 1/2in. feet measured, wider than normal feet (at pinkie toe) shoe size 10.5 and 10.5 in 5.10 Coyote laceups (for Friction)...Thanks, for any/all advice on the Ra's in Size's/Fit/Info in comparison to the other climbing shoe's/ Sizes Listed above!!!! Climber are an alsome Family, and seem MOST all are Kind and Helpful...Wish all the Best!!!
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
May 15, 2013
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.
Jason,
I have really wide feet and the Ra's fit me great without pain or excess pressure. My street shoe size is 9.5 and I am using 8.5 Ra's. They are comfortable enough for long routes but I do tend to take them off at belays if possible. I use the same shoe for one pitch routes that I'm projecting.
Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Joined Feb 26, 2006
1,040 points
Administrator
Aug 19, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
well, i figure it is about time i chip in my .02....

i bought a pair of intis several months ago. i primarily bought them to be a comfortable pair of warmup shoes. my 5.10 galileos are my go-to shoes for really thin edging and/or hard face climbing. i have a pair of not-so-tight galileos for warm ups, but they are still fairly uncomfortable.

i tried on a couple sizes of the intis at the bent gate in golden. i bought my pair a half size larger than the tightest i could wear. they felt pretty comfortable. i figured i would use them for routes up to 11a or so.

first day out, i put them on and head up a smooth 5.8 granite route. right off the bat i was like, whoa, what the hell. they were not what i was expecting. i was sort of expecting a toyota corolla, and they felt more like a 911. the grip on the rock was literally almost making my feet stumble. it was pretty wierd. i was impressed.

so i did a few more routes and started pushing them a bit. damn! i was really surprised. the rubber was excellent, with great smearing ability. they also edged well, despite not being super tight or super stiff. they felt reall 'accurate' for lack of a better word(?). previously 5.12 was the domain of my galileos. the intis have pretty much taken over. i think i have only switched over to my galileos on a couple really heinous edging routes since i bought them.

the thing that impresses me the most is how well they perform while being so comfortable. with my tight galileos, i have literally 3 or 4 pitches per day in them before my toes are fried. a lot of times i have to ice my toes that night so that i can climb the folowing day. i have had many days with 10 to 15 pitches in my intis, most of these days climbing a lot of routes with really demanding face climbing.

these things have completely and utterly defied my expectations.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,046 points
Sep 1, 2013
black Orpheus
How is the sizing on the Masai? I'm a 10.5 street shoe, US 9 / euro 42 in la sportiva. Royal
From Henderson, NV
Joined Jun 11, 2010
201 points
Sep 1, 2013
Call me a skeptic but I remain unconvinced (and in all fairness, probably will be until I try a pair myself).

I've never found Anasazi/Galileo, or really, any Five Ten shoe to be particularly impressive. In the Sportiva/Scarpa camp, I'm not a diehard fan of Katana Velcro or Vapor Lace/V. The Katana velcro isn't a bad crack jamming shoe, but I still have a couple old pairs of Vipers that are better for that purpose (& really, if I can comfortably foot jam a crack, it probably isn't that hard, so who cares how well the shoes perform?) If sized for edging, they are like the Muira lace: they work well until the shoes are fully broken in: by then the last has softened quite a bit for hard edging. The Vapor (both lace & velcro), IMO, has too much toe box volume to size somewhat comfortably & still edge well (the last, though holds up better than Katana velcro, also softens & looses its aggressiveness fairly quickly).

So, who has compared the Tenaya models against the likes of TC Pro, Katana Lace, Muira Velcro, Solution, Boostic, Instinct VS, Mago? It's not that I don't climb in other shoes, but these are about the only models I'm willing to pay top dollars for. And without a way of getting the Tenaya models for more than 20% off + tax (problem of a small distribution network), they need to be on par or better than these Sportiva/Scarpa models for me to consider trying.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
143 points
Sep 1, 2013
reboot wrote:
Call me a skeptic but I remain unconvinced (and in all fairness, probably will be until I try a pair myself). I've never found Anasazi/Galileo, or really, any Five Ten shoe to be particularly impressive. In the Sportiva/Scarpa camp, I'm not a diehard fan of Katana Velcro or Vapor Lace/V. The Katana velcro isn't a bad crack jamming shoe, but I still have a couple old pairs of Vipers that are better for that purpose (& really, if I can comfortably foot jam a crack, it probably isn't that hard, so who cares how well the shoes perform?) If sized for edging, they are like the Muira lace: they work well until the shoes are fully broken in: by then the last has softened quite a bit for hard edging. The Vapor (both lace & velcro), IMO, has too much toe box volume to size somewhat comfortably & still edge well (the last, though holds up better than Katana velcro, also softens & looses its aggressiveness fairly quickly). So, who has compared the Tenaya models against the likes of TC Pro, Katana Lace, Muira Velcro, Solution, Boostic, Instinct VS, Mago? It's not that I don't climb in other shoes, but these are about the only models I'm willing to pay top dollars for. And without a way of getting the Tenaya models for more than 20% off + tax (problem of a small distribution network), they need to be on par or better than these Sportiva/Scarpa models for me to consider trying.


I own Solutions, Boostics, Feroces, Vapor S, Katanas, Katana Laces, and Muiras. I'm ordering a pair of Inti's out of simple curiosity and a desire to find a marginally better fit for my feet. I am very picky about performance in shoes, but also wear them at a far more comfortable size than most. I'll update you in a few days when I have worn the Inti's.

I only decided to pull the trigger because I found them for 20% off w/o tax at backcountry.com. This puts the Inti into the sub $100 range; far from top dollar for a climbing shoe.
shotwell
Joined Feb 20, 2011
0 points
Sep 2, 2013
Royal wrote:
How is the sizing on the Masai? I'm a 10.5 street shoe, US 9 / euro 42 in la sportiva.


It is a bit smaller than street shoe size.

Shoe threads are fun, but in the end really are somewhat pointless. For every post about how good/bad a particular model is for edging, smearing, all-day comfort, or any other performance measurement, there will always be someone who has the opposite experience. I've been wearing the Scapa Vapor V and I appear to be using a shoe that is completely different than the Vapors other people have bought - my impressions couldn't be more different. You can make some general observations about a climbing shoe, e.g., relatively soft or stiff, the toe on model X is a bit more pointed than the toe on model y., etc. But it comes down to whether or not it fits your foot.
Dana Bartlett
From CT
Joined Nov 18, 2003
963 points
Sep 2, 2013
How does the Ra, Inti, Masai compare to Katana Lace and Vapor V (I have both)? To me, the Vapor V is a little less precise than the Katana Lace. Other than that I found them somewhat similar in fit, feel, stiffness, and performance. Of course, right now my KL with C4 sticks to everything a bit better than my VV with Mystique, and softer too. It was a closer match when the VV had XS Grip 2. S. Neoh
Joined Oct 4, 2009
481 points
Administrator
Sep 3, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
the inti is kind of hard to describe. when you try it on in the store, it doesn't have that slightly downturned dagger sort of feel to it. it really just feels like an ordinary comfortable shoe. i think that is one of the reasons i was so surprised with how well it climbs. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,046 points
Sep 3, 2013
Not so easy for me try a pair out in the store here on the East Coast. For a test drive, I will have to order a pair online. That is why I am asking before parting with $100. Is this so unreasonable?

How about a shoe demo out East, Monomaniac?
S. Neoh
Joined Oct 4, 2009
481 points
Sep 4, 2013
SirChips-A-Lot wrote:
I should've just called out 'reboot' by name. Simpler. Sizing seems consistent with Anasazis, fit is way better. You still have to order them and find out for yourself. VCDS (Vaya Con DioS, I'm doing lame internet anagrams now too)

If any of you can actually describe the shoes in intelligible terms instead of marketing b.s., (the shit reads like ads for penis enlargement), I may have been convinced.

As it is, I've seen almost zero detailed description of how it performs. It edges well, huh? In what way (is Tommy gonna be psyched on the Dawn Wall with this or do they only edge well for 5.noob routes)? It climbs crack well...What size, & how? The rubber is sticky? Compared to what under what condition? It fits your foot? Great, what is your foot shaped like?

Btw, Tenaya says it used XS Grip, which Sportiva/Scarpa both used for a while, but deemed it not very durable & decided to change to Grip 2/Edge. I've used shoes w/ the older rubber. It's more stable than C4 Stealth in warmer temps, but it certainly wasn't my preferred rubber for edging, apparently neither was it Tommy's (Eric @ R&R had told me Tommy was asking him for harder compound when all of Sportiva shoes came with it). The rubber also gets destroyed like nobody's business on the Vedauwoo's sharp granite. Funny none of you clowns experienced that, huh?

Really, if Tenaya is a widely distributed brand, I'd never have bothered w/ mp.com.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
143 points
Administrator
Sep 5, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
S. Neoh wrote:
Not so easy for me try a pair out in the store here on the East Coast. For a test drive, I will have to order a pair online. That is why I am asking before parting with $100. Is this so unreasonable? How about a shoe demo out East, Monomaniac?


Make your way out to Fayetteville. I'm pretty sure Waterstone carries at least two of the models. You can try 'em on for size then go have a ball testing 'em out.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,005 points
Administrator
Sep 5, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
reboot wrote:
If any of you can actually describe the shoes in intelligible terms instead of marketing b.s., (the shit reads like ads for penis enlargement), I may have been convinced. As it is, I've seen almost zero detailed description of how it performs. It edges well, huh? In what way (is Tommy gonna be psyched on the Dawn Wall with this or do they only edge well for 5.noob routes)? It climbs crack well...What size, & how? The rubber is sticky? Compared to what under what condition? It fits your foot? Great, what is your foot shaped like? Btw, Tenaya says it used XS Grip, which Sportiva/Scarpa both used for a while, but deemed it not very durable & decided to change to Grip 2/Edge. I've used shoes w/ the older rubber. It's more stable than C4 Stealth in warmer temps, but it certainly wasn't my preferred rubber for edging, apparently neither was it Tommy's (Eric @ R&R had told me Tommy was asking him for harder compound when all of Sportiva shoes came with it). The rubber also gets destroyed like nobody's business on the Vedauwoo's sharp granite. Funny none of you clowns experienced that, huh? Really, if Tenaya is a widely distributed brand, I'd never have bothered w/ mp.com.



so i amuse you? what, like a fucking clown?.... i guess i haven't watched any penis enlargement commercials, so i will leave the expert comparison to ..... sorry, you pitched an underhand ball and somebody was going to hit it out of the park at some point.


anyway... you make some interesting comments. i was definitely surprised that it edged so well, given that the rubber is substantially softer than the onyx on my galileos and that i wasn't wearing them super tight. you are familiar with the type of climbing i generally do, so... what can i say?

one thing you mention, the whole xsedge thing. i think that rubber licks donkey dick. it is more like hard black plastic. it edges ok (i still think onyx edges better) but the smearing/friction is absolutely terrible. again, i think onyx completely kills xsedge for this type of application. i also haven't found xsedge to be that durable, particularly considering how hard it is. for example, my intis with the xsgrip have probably 5 times as many pitches on them as my katana velcros with the xsedge, and the rubber on the intis is in better shape. part of this could be attributed to climbing more cracks in the katanas, although i have climbed a decent number of cracks in the intis.

i have done a decent number of routes on nubby granite crystals that are somewhat similar to vedauwoo, but maybe less sharp. the soles on the intis didn't get trashed. to be honest with you, what doesn't get trashed at vedauwoo?

i think i would describe the intis by saying the design is quite simple and straight forward, yet effective for general face climbing. the shape is simple and doesn't rely on altered foot geometry (ie radical downturn or torsional twisting). the toe has a nice point to it that enables fairly accurate placement into small pockets or restricted edges.

sorry i'm not more help shumin :(
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,046 points
Sep 5, 2013
Mega butt shot!  Aitzol, Margalef
Hmm, I'm not sure I'd call these a Spanish delicacy. Clearly I have had a different experience than most here so I figured I would post up my thoughts

For reference I almost exclusively sport climb on limestone, my current go to shoe is the Miura VS, and I also use sportiva Cobras and Miura lace-ups

I bought a pair of Inti's last fall after trying them on in the store and thinking they were very comfortable for how snug they were. I wanted the Ra's (because of the cooler colors), but they were out and the salesman said the Inti was the slightly more narrow version which probably would fit my foot better anyway. Since then they have gone from my primary shoe, to a warm-up shoe, to a gym-only shoe, to an "in the gearbox at home" shoe. I have tried them on vertical techy routes and very steep routes of different styles and found them to perform poorly on all.

Part of the issue is that I think the shape of the shoe and the focal point of pressure are quite different from the sportivas. It's hard to explain but I felt like the toe was more toward the center, and when I weighted the foot I had the feeling that it was rolling out of the placement. They are much softer than expected, so I was never as confident standing on small edges as in the miuras. They didn't feel as sensitive or as sticky as cobras. Worst was steep face climbing where I felt I might as well just campus because I had no confidence toeing-in on pockets or edges.

Having said that, I am interested in seeing how their new model performs. In the mean time I will be sticking to my sportivas
Jorde
From Barcelona
Joined Jun 14, 2008
152 points
Sep 5, 2013
slim, I feel like you keep getting in the crossfire between killis & me. I knew killis was responding to me even before he explicitly called me out & I over-sprayed w/ my words when replying in a bad mood.

Unless the shoes fits you better than anything else, I don't believe a plain climbing shoe design would work magic; maybe there's something more subtle going on than meets the eye (ex: Katana lace looks less aggressive than Miura lace out of the box but retains its shape much better). Regardless, I'll go try on a pair when I'm back in the front range, just out of curiosity than anything else.

As with the whole rubber thing, I'm mostly in agreement w/ your observation (although comparing rubber on different shoes are problematic & rubber that seems good on a brand new pair of shoes may quickly prove to be too soft once the sole gets softer). As for Edge, I couldn't wait for the rubber to wear off on my Katana lace to resole w/ Onyx. All else were not equal, but I can definitely tell the difference between my 2 Moonlight trips 4 months apart. Still, I do know a few people who like the Edge better & if you have to climb on warm/hot rock, I do believe it edges significantly better than Onyx. My experience w the old Grip was that chunks of it likes to come off @ Vedauwoo whereas the similarly soft C4 would leave more of a smeary mess. But then I sent my hardest on a new pair, old stock Mago with the Grip rubber.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
143 points
Administrator
Sep 5, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
reboot wrote:
slim, I feel like you keep getting in the crossfire between killis & me. I knew killis was responding to me even before he explicitly called me out & I over-sprayed w/ my words when replying in a bad mood.



ha, no worries man. i was just trying to use that famous quote from goodfellas, and generally giving you a hard time.

it is really interesting how different people view different shoes. for example, jorde likes the miura VS. i've worn them a couple times, but they felt kind of weird - almost like there was a wad of rubber under the toe. the toe box feels big and square to me for some reason. a lot of my friends love this shoe. i think they might be better for that type of edging where you are high stepping and reaching your toes around aretes, or other obstructions. i think what i am feeling as a wad of rubber would actually help in those cases.

for that dead flat edging on a mirror like face with tiny edges or knobs i still feel most comfortable in my galileos. it took me a while to trust them as they are quite stiff and not sensitive, but if you place them carefully they are very solid.

i haven't worn the katana lace yet. i have had several pairs of katana velcros, primarily for desert cracks, as well as for general granite crack climbing where i still need to be able to face climb fairly well (ie squamish, etc). i have heard a lot of good things about the lace version, hopefully i will get to try it some time. i am definitely looking forward to getting my velcro pair resoled though. if the laceups are really downturned i will probably have problems, for some reason the arches of my feet IMEDIATELY cramp up like a mofo in down-turned shoes. this completely sucks, as it really limits my options for steep shoes.

when i bought the intis i was looking for a comfy warmup pair and they felt the most comfortable of the numerous shoes i tried on that day (that kid at the bent gate worked his ass off, poor bastard). i was really shocked though at how well they climbed, particularly compared to what i was expecting.

different strokes for different folks i guess.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,046 points
Sep 13, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
reboot wrote:
slim, I feel like you keep getting in the crossfire between killis & me. I knew killis was responding to me even before he explicitly called me out & I over-sprayed w/ my words when replying in a bad mood. Unless the shoes fits you better than anything else, I don't believe a plain climbing shoe design would work magic; maybe there's something more subtle going on than meets the eye (ex: Katana lace looks less aggressive than Miura lace out of the box but retains its shape much better). Regardless, I'll go try on a pair when I'm back in the front range, just out of curiosity than anything else. As with the whole rubber thing, I'm mostly in agreement w/ your observation (although comparing rubber on different shoes are problematic & rubber that seems good on a brand new pair of shoes may quickly prove to be too soft once the sole gets softer). As for Edge, I couldn't wait for the rubber to wear off on my Katana lace to resole w/ Onyx. All else were not equal, but I can definitely tell the difference between my 2 Moonlight trips 4 months apart. Still, I do know a few people who like the Edge better & if you have to climb on warm/hot rock, I do believe it edges significantly better than Onyx. My experience w the old Grip was that chunks of it likes to come off @ Vedauwoo whereas the similarly soft C4 would leave more of a smeary mess. But then I sent my hardest on a new pair, old stock Mago with the Grip rubber.


To All- I live in NC, no stores with good shoes...so have to order online! I own the 5-10 Coyotes size10.5(for slab, c4 rubber is sticky, but sole has no midsole and rigidity, to stick), I also own a pair of Mythos 42.5( which seem ok on vertical, but hurt on slab/smearing, because I have wide feet at pinky toe!!) I have tried the Anasizi lace( too small and heel way too deep!) Also, tried the Muiras in sizes 43.5 and 44 (the 44 felt ok till put on rock, then toe cruching time!) So, now trying the Katina lace 43 and TC Pro's 43! The TC Pros seem tight and foot goes numb in 30min and the Katantas seem to fit alittle better a few hot(pain points in ankle back an big toe& pink when pressure put on them...Man, I wish I cold just buy new feet (Narrower)...If anyone has any advice in shoes or sizes...I would be greatfull!!!! My toes bottom out in both new shoes and I have not tried Tenaya's yet but thinking about the Ra's or Amigo?
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Sep 16, 2013
portrait
Hey guys!

I was fortunate enough to demo a pair of the Ra's this weekend at the AAC Cragging Classic in North Conway, NH. I spent the better part of the morning and afternoon testing them out on NH granite from the slabs on Whitehorse to some of the steeper routes here in the valley. I found them to be pretty comfortable..a bit narrower in the toebox as I am used to the Scarpa instincts (plenty of room for my wide forefoot and narrow ankle. I did feel a bit of a pressure point in the heel after the third or fourth pitch on Whitehorse..however..hanging belays on slab will tend to do this. This is where the beauty of the Velcro strap comes into play. A quick pull of the tabs and the shoes loosened and problem solved. They performed quite well on the slabs, I am a fan of xs grip rubber and found it to be more than sufficient on the bulletproof granite we have here in northern New Hampshire. The shoes are quite a bit softer than the Anasazi VS and so I was a bit leary to switch to both inside and outside edges on steeper terrain as they felt a bit more like a slipper. That being said, they held an edge quite nicely but did lack the support that a stiffer shoe like the miura vs or Katana. I did not send these into cracks or pockets so can't report back on that. I was able to stick them into small shallow seems and stemmed quite a bit experiencing no slippage or lack of purchase. No question the design forces the weight over the big toe...and this is immediately noticeable the second you slip these on. Padded tongue is comfortable, they don't breathe particularly well and I wish the hell came up a bit higher over the heel bone. All said and done I didn't feel that these are world changers necessarily,but...they did everything that they are designed to do and did them well. They were very comfortable and very precise on the thinnest of edges and performed nicely on slab at all angles. I am buying a pair to replace the Anasazi VCS's and will report back once I have had them for a season. Ultimately, i am Very impressed with this shoe..kind of harkens back to the old Boreal Vector days...
Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Joined Jun 25, 2008
453 points
Sep 26, 2013
Anyone have details on when the Oasi will be available stateside? cnadel
From Seattle, WA
Joined Feb 5, 2013
7 points
Sep 26, 2013
cnadel wrote:
Anyone have details on when the Oasi will be available stateside?


Bent Gate (in Golden, CO) already has it in stock in the store.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Sep 29, 2013
I have a pair of Maisai's. I bought them because they fit MY foot nice and snug - no dead or pressure spots - and all day comfort. I wasn't looking for a specialists shoe. They climb like climbing shoes - rubber is the same as everyone else pretty much. I'm not a 5.15 hard man - and for me fit is king. I wanted these for long, all day, multi pitch routes and for that they are great. That said they also worked just fine on a couple sport routes right at my limit on thin edges - which for a comfort fit shoe is pretty solid. My feet don't hurt in them after 7 or 8 pitch routes - they climb just fine - what else do you want in a climbing shoe? A good climber will climb well in a Tenaya and a bad climber will not - pretty simple. Chris Rice
Joined Jan 11, 2013
15 points


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