Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tenaya Climbing Shoes
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 3 of 7.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By Christopher Barlow
Mar 3, 2013

Dana Bartlett wrote:
Taylor Ogden wrote: Any thoughts on how they fit compared to other shoes/brands? I'm specifically interested in how the Ra's compare to Scarpa Vapor V's, if you have used that shoe. The Ras are softer and a bit more flexible than the Vapors. However, I don't think this hinders their edging ability, and I feel it makes them a bit more versatile than the Vapor. The Vapor has less give when you dorsiflex your foot, and in my experience that inhibits their ability to smear and to function on rock that is off vertical. The Vapor is more supportive because it "locks" your foot in and that makes it slightly better at edging than the Ra, but not by much. The Ra - for my foot anyway - fits a bit wider, as well.


As far as sizing specifically, I wore a Vapor lace-up size 42 screaming tight and a Ra 41.5 at a similar tightness. That said, the Ra is still more comfortable at that size and performs better all around except for really aggressive toeing in - as Dana mentions. Overall, I think the comfort outweighs the minor loss in power as I can use my feet better in less pain.


FLAG
By Xan Calonne
From Studio City, Ca
Mar 3, 2013

Can somebody explain the difference between the inti and the ra? They look very similar, is one softer or something?


FLAG
By Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Mar 4, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!

Monomaniac wrote:
Jason, Based on those criteria, I would recommend the Tenaya Ra. Its wider than the Masai, but still perfect for multi-pitch trad climbing. They're a great "all-around" shoe, but still perfectly capable of edging on really tiny holds. I've worn mine all day while trad climbing with very little discomfort.


Thanks so Much Monomanic and other climber's been climbing since I was a boy with father (mostly friction, just starting to progress/get into Vertical) But need to find shoe to help step up beyond a 5.7 in Vertical! I Think 99% of all Climber are the Niceest, Caring and Most Helpful/Thoughtful People I meet/know...We look out for each other, help other...I Love Climbers!!! I once was in a summit climb and hed to tie off(lockin to ancore) my follower and go off safety ancore(at belay sation)and quickly through a rope on my back, climb over to another route and drop a rope to a climber that was leading, didnt had any Pro in and was frozen with sowing machine leg and looking at ground fall...I Rapped down to him and got him hooked in my rope...the only reason in sharing this, is that I what to Thank ALL CLIMBERS, for their Values, Caring, Helping each other! We all Family! By the way I was looking at the Tenaya Amigo (like a liceup Ra), but not for sell in US...I've never own velcro's (how they work in holding feet in place and adjustment to feet for comfort in long climbs/multi-pitch)? Thanks, for any/all help, might help other's in same situation!


FLAG
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Mar 7, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.

Xan Calonne wrote:
Can somebody explain the difference between the inti and the ra? They look very similar, is one softer or something?


That's a great question, here is what Tenaya's website says:

"Coming from the very best of RA which has cleared some of the hardest routes in world, we have created INTI, a high performance climbing shoe that amazes for its extraordinary response under the foot biomechanical needs in the high difficulty climbs.

To rely on the best attacking angle, to count on the perfect asymmetry, to feel the rock closer or getting the highest force are some of the INTI qualities.

But the most important is “the soul” of the shoe, SXR Dynamics® Technology, a Movement Adjusting System that leads to a better efficiency, precision and comfort."


In my experience the Inti is a bit stiffer than the Ra at the same size, and perhaps slightly lower volume in the toe box. I also think the toe is not quite as pointy, but I'm not sure on that point. I use the Inti for hardcore thin edging. Its the most precise technical edging shoe in my vast arsenal.


FLAG
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Mar 7, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.

Big news! I just got word that Tenayas are now available for purchase at Bentgate in Golden, CO! If you're on the Frontrange, this is your big chance to try them in person.

Even better news, Tenaya is hosting two shoe demos on the Front Range. The first will be at the Boulder Rock Club on Wednesday 3/13, at 5pm, and the second at Miramont in Fort Collins on Thursday 4/18 at 5pm.


FLAG
By Larry S
Mar 7, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

I contacted trango thru their webpage with some general questions on the masai and sizing. I had a nice exchange going with Adam (he's the guy in the videos describing the shoes on their website) about what shoes i have right now and what size i wear in them, what i don't like about them, etc... If you have specific questions, i wouldn't hesitate to contact them, they were very helpful.

I ended up ordering a pair of Masai's, I'm expecting them to arrive next week, I'll post up my thoughts after i get some miles on them.


FLAG
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Mar 12, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.

Tomorrow night! Get psyched!

Wednesday March 13th 5-9pm t the BRC!
Wednesday March 13th 5-9pm t the BRC!


FLAG
By Zappatista
Apr 7, 2013
Book me, officer.

I tend to be verbose, so here's a big surprise to you, Gentle Reader.

Got the Ras. They are Excellent. Like a non-painful Anasazi Velcro, precise like a Miura, totally happy with the sticky Vibram used, smeared on black glass on some very slick varnish with ease. Have tested them out on half a dozen techy, slick, footwork-intensive climbs in Red Rock. They perform well and feel even better.

My new favorite shoe.


FLAG
 
By Larry S
Apr 7, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

I promised a review on the masai too, but haven't been able to climb in the pair i got yet. I've got some Achilles heel bursitis going on and can't even really get the shoes on. The toebox is low volume, an reminds me of the evovl Pontas: Flat, Narrow and pointed. The heel is low up the back, lower on the Achilles than any other shoe I own. The arch is high, possibly too high as it makes the shoe sag under my heel (and hit precisely where my bursitis is)


FLAG
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Apr 10, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.

Shoe Demo Thursday, April 18 in Fort Collins! Tell your friends!

Shoe Demo!
Shoe Demo!


FLAG
By Nahuel
Apr 30, 2013

Killing In The Name Of wrote:
I tend to be verbose, so here's a big surprise to you, Gentle Reader. Got the Ras. They are Excellent. Like a non-painful Anasazi Velcro, precise like a Miura, totally happy with the sticky Vibram used, smeared on black glass on some very slick varnish with ease. Have tested them out on half a dozen techy, slick, footwork-intensive climbs in Red Rock. They perform well and feel even better. My new favorite shoe.



What size did you get them?? I'm a 42 in the anasazi velcro, should I get a 42 Ra's too?


FLAG
By Greg Berry
Apr 30, 2013

I went deep water soloing in Thailand with my Tatankas and they recovered perfectly. I think they may even fit better now (could just be in my head). I love them on the southern sandstone. I really like this shoe for vertical sport routes. I wear a full size bigger in the Tatankas 42 1/2 than my Miuras 41 1/2. This shoe has proven it's durability to me and i would recommend trying them out.


FLAG
By teece303
From Highlands Ranch, CO
Apr 30, 2013
Aiding.

You guys have almost convinced me, I think my next pair of shoes may very well be a pair of Tenayas.


FLAG
By Zappatista
May 9, 2013
Book me, officer.

I bought two pairs of the Tenayas, and have put a shit ton of pitches on them over the last few weeks. They fit amazingly, climb as hard as my best 5.10s, the rubber is sticky as hell and haven't had a single slip yet. I've been preferring the Ras for performance and the Masais for comfort, but the Masais are a half size bigger, so that may be more an indication of wiggle room than a decline in absolute edging ability.

These are great shoes. I can't see someone who likes Miuras or Anasazis not liking these. They're really, really good shoes.


FLAG
By divnamite
From New York, NY
May 10, 2013

Killing In The Name Of wrote:
I bought two pairs of the Tenayas, and have put a shit ton of pitches on them over the last few weeks. They fit amazingly, climb as hard as my best 5.10s, the rubber is sticky as hell and haven't had a single slip yet. I've been preferring the Ras for performance and the Masais for comfort, but the Masais are a half size bigger, so that may be more an indication of wiggle room than a decline in absolute edging ability. These are great shoes. I can't see someone who likes Miuras or Anasazis not liking these. They're really, really good shoes.


ah, shit, you just might have convinced me. what size do you wear in miura and what size did you get for tenaya?


FLAG
By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
May 10, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

killing you should try the tatankas as well. I really liked the ras but i like the tatankas even more.


FLAG
 
By Zappatista
May 10, 2013
Book me, officer.

Div, I shouldn't tell you since you didn't sell me those metolius....nah just kidding.

I am used to minor to medium pain in 8.5 Men's Anasazis. Haven't bought Miuras in years and when I did they were crazy small, gave them away to tiny people to resole. Obsession is stupid as are the results.

So I'd say that whatever size Anasazi Velcro you like, get that or a half size up for extra comfort. The big difference in fit is in the heel. The Tenaya heel is way, way better-more comfy, smaller. They seem like a really rad shoe for people with narrow feet-I prefer the old women's anasazi, grey miuras, etc. And the rubber smokes Onyxx as well, though C4's probably still a little better.

Hope that helps.


FLAG
By divnamite
From New York, NY
May 11, 2013

ah, freak. I can't stand the anasazi at all! I'm gonna see if I can test out a pair of them.


FLAG
By Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
May 15, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!

Monomaniac wrote:
Jason, Based on those criteria, I would recommend the Tenaya Ra. Its wider than the Masai, but still perfect for multi-pitch trad climbing. They're a great "all-around" shoe, but still perfectly capable of edging on really tiny holds. I've worn mine all day while trad climbing with very little discomfort.


Thanks, I bought some Mythos 42.5 for comfort and easier, all day climbs....also order a pair of Muiras in size 43.5, they fit snug, but not cramped...but after reading everyone's comments I think I will probably go with Tenaya's RA or Maybe the Amigo(not avalible in US) which very simalar but a laceup... I've never owned strapped (velcro) shoes... how does the Ra fit on wider feet??? What size Ra would anyone, recommend??? I have 10 1/2in. feet measured, wider than normal feet (at pinkie toe) shoe size 10.5 and 10.5 in 5.10 Coyote laceups (for Friction)...Thanks, for any/all advice on the Ra's in Size's/Fit/Info in comparison to the other climbing shoe's/ Sizes Listed above!!!! Climber are an alsome Family, and seem MOST all are Kind and Helpful...Wish all the Best!!!


FLAG
By Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
May 15, 2013
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.

Jason,
I have really wide feet and the Ra's fit me great without pain or excess pressure. My street shoe size is 9.5 and I am using 8.5 Ra's. They are comfortable enough for long routes but I do tend to take them off at belays if possible. I use the same shoe for one pitch routes that I'm projecting.


FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Aug 19, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

well, i figure it is about time i chip in my .02....

i bought a pair of intis several months ago. i primarily bought them to be a comfortable pair of warmup shoes. my 5.10 galileos are my go-to shoes for really thin edging and/or hard face climbing. i have a pair of not-so-tight galileos for warm ups, but they are still fairly uncomfortable.

i tried on a couple sizes of the intis at the bent gate in golden. i bought my pair a half size larger than the tightest i could wear. they felt pretty comfortable. i figured i would use them for routes up to 11a or so.

first day out, i put them on and head up a smooth 5.8 granite route. right off the bat i was like, whoa, what the hell. they were not what i was expecting. i was sort of expecting a toyota corolla, and they felt more like a 911. the grip on the rock was literally almost making my feet stumble. it was pretty wierd. i was impressed.

so i did a few more routes and started pushing them a bit. damn! i was really surprised. the rubber was excellent, with great smearing ability. they also edged well, despite not being super tight or super stiff. they felt reall 'accurate' for lack of a better word(?). previously 5.12 was the domain of my galileos. the intis have pretty much taken over. i think i have only switched over to my galileos on a couple really heinous edging routes since i bought them.

the thing that impresses me the most is how well they perform while being so comfortable. with my tight galileos, i have literally 3 or 4 pitches per day in them before my toes are fried. a lot of times i have to ice my toes that night so that i can climb the folowing day. i have had many days with 10 to 15 pitches in my intis, most of these days climbing a lot of routes with really demanding face climbing.

these things have completely and utterly defied my expectations.


FLAG
By Royal
From Henderson, NV
Sep 1, 2013
Free Willy (Salt Point)

How is the sizing on the Masai? I'm a 10.5 street shoe, US 9 / euro 42 in la sportiva.


FLAG
By reboot
From Westminster, CO
Sep 1, 2013

Call me a skeptic but I remain unconvinced (and in all fairness, probably will be until I try a pair myself).

I've never found Anasazi/Galileo, or really, any Five Ten shoe to be particularly impressive. In the Sportiva/Scarpa camp, I'm not a diehard fan of Katana Velcro or Vapor Lace/V. The Katana velcro isn't a bad crack jamming shoe, but I still have a couple old pairs of Vipers that are better for that purpose (& really, if I can comfortably foot jam a crack, it probably isn't that hard, so who cares how well the shoes perform?) If sized for edging, they are like the Muira lace: they work well until the shoes are fully broken in: by then the last has softened quite a bit for hard edging. The Vapor (both lace & velcro), IMO, has too much toe box volume to size somewhat comfortably & still edge well (the last, though holds up better than Katana velcro, also softens & looses its aggressiveness fairly quickly).

So, who has compared the Tenaya models against the likes of TC Pro, Katana Lace, Muira Velcro, Solution, Boostic, Instinct VS, Mago? It's not that I don't climb in other shoes, but these are about the only models I'm willing to pay top dollars for. And without a way of getting the Tenaya models for more than 20% off + tax (problem of a small distribution network), they need to be on par or better than these Sportiva/Scarpa models for me to consider trying.


FLAG
By shotwell
Sep 1, 2013

reboot wrote:
Call me a skeptic but I remain unconvinced (and in all fairness, probably will be until I try a pair myself). I've never found Anasazi/Galileo, or really, any Five Ten shoe to be particularly impressive. In the Sportiva/Scarpa camp, I'm not a diehard fan of Katana Velcro or Vapor Lace/V. The Katana velcro isn't a bad crack jamming shoe, but I still have a couple old pairs of Vipers that are better for that purpose (& really, if I can comfortably foot jam a crack, it probably isn't that hard, so who cares how well the shoes perform?) If sized for edging, they are like the Muira lace: they work well until the shoes are fully broken in: by then the last has softened quite a bit for hard edging. The Vapor (both lace & velcro), IMO, has too much toe box volume to size somewhat comfortably & still edge well (the last, though holds up better than Katana velcro, also softens & looses its aggressiveness fairly quickly). So, who has compared the Tenaya models against the likes of TC Pro, Katana Lace, Muira Velcro, Solution, Boostic, Instinct VS, Mago? It's not that I don't climb in other shoes, but these are about the only models I'm willing to pay top dollars for. And without a way of getting the Tenaya models for more than 20% off + tax (problem of a small distribution network), they need to be on par or better than these Sportiva/Scarpa models for me to consider trying.


I own Solutions, Boostics, Feroces, Vapor S, Katanas, Katana Laces, and Muiras. I'm ordering a pair of Inti's out of simple curiosity and a desire to find a marginally better fit for my feet. I am very picky about performance in shoes, but also wear them at a far more comfortable size than most. I'll update you in a few days when I have worn the Inti's.

I only decided to pull the trigger because I found them for 20% off w/o tax at backcountry.com. This puts the Inti into the sub $100 range; far from top dollar for a climbing shoe.


FLAG
 
By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Sep 2, 2013

Royal wrote:
How is the sizing on the Masai? I'm a 10.5 street shoe, US 9 / euro 42 in la sportiva.


It is a bit smaller than street shoe size.

Shoe threads are fun, but in the end really are somewhat pointless. For every post about how good/bad a particular model is for edging, smearing, all-day comfort, or any other performance measurement, there will always be someone who has the opposite experience. I've been wearing the Scapa Vapor V and I appear to be using a shoe that is completely different than the Vapors other people have bought - my impressions couldn't be more different. You can make some general observations about a climbing shoe, e.g., relatively soft or stiff, the toe on model X is a bit more pointed than the toe on model y., etc. But it comes down to whether or not it fits your foot.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 3 of 7.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>